The Seadoo Carb Rebuild Thread

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What are you asking?
I checked for leaks and can’t seem to find any!
I read that sense I changed all fuel lines it running at full throttle maybe because all lines are not full with fuel?
Should I run with water hook up and control with choke and it might level out full throttle issue?
I hope this makes sense..
 
Thank you very much for the carb rebuild info. I'm going to take a swing at it myself. One question though: I've heard the OIL LINES in my model year (1996 GTI) have a high failure rate also. Is this true, and is it fairly straightforward to replace the OIL LINES when the carb is out? Thanks for the replies.
 
pop off chart.png

Here is an awesome chart for anyone who is struggling with setting their pop-off. Mine kept popping off at 21 psi and i could not figure out why. I ordered the 80 gram black springs as etemplet (a very helpful and well known user suggested) I even returned the non genuine needle and seats in exchange for genuine ones. I went with what was in my carb, the 2.0 and it was still popping off at 21. i couldnt figure out why and was about to throw in the towel. Then I stumbled upon this chart right here.

Now heres my question. I was on the phone with a local mechanic who has good experience tuning 2 stroke jet skis. I explained to him my problem and he said that if it was running when i bought it (which it was) he wouldnt mess with the pop off and just run it at the pressure it was at. I have put a new genuine mikuni kit in there. I'm going to order the 1.5 needle valve size so I can mess around with the pressure if its not running right. Whose right in this instance? Is the mechanic I spoke to correct? If it was running good with the 2.0 needle and seat in there, am I ok or just better off putting in the 1.5? Like I said, the 1.5 needle and seat is in the mail and I will have it at my disposal if need be
 
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Here is an awesome chart for anyone who is struggling with setting their pop-off. Mine kept popping off at 21 psi and i could not figure out why. I ordered the 80 gram black springs as etemplet (a very helpful and well known user suggested) I even returned the non genuine needle and seats in exchange for genuine ones. I went with what was in my carb, the 2.0 and it was still popping off at 21. i couldnt figure out why and was about to throw in the towel. Then I stumbled upon this chart right here.

Now heres my question. I was on the phone with a local mechanic who has good experience tuning 2 stroke jet skis. I explained to him my problem and he said that if it was running when i bought it (which it was) he wouldnt mess with the pop off and just run it at the pressure it was at. I have put a new genuine mikuni kit in there. I'm going to order the 1.5 needle valve size so I can mess around with the pressure if its not running right. Whose right in this instance? Is the mechanic I spoke to correct? If it was running good with the 2.0 needle and seat in there, am I ok or just better off putting in the 1.5? Like I said, the 1.5 needle and seat is in the mail and I will have it at my disposal if need be

No, if it’s stock run the stock springs and the factory seat size. There are errors on the Seadoo pop off spec chart and the Mikuni chart is correct. Pop off is not exact so just make sure you are in the range and on dual carbs try to get them the same.
 
Ok I am getting frustrated!
I did a carb rebuild on 2001 GTX with 951.
Replaced all fuel lines.
Seadoo I know has idle adjusted to low.
But stalls when returning from a rip.
I have about a 5 minute canal trip to lake and seadoo stalls now about 20 times heading back after a run?
I feather throttle and even at 2000 RPM with adjusting neutral it will stall?
 
Great Thread thanks Mikidymac!

Questions on the Ty-Rap. Which size? Should I get a Ty-Rap gun too or can I do half a dozen by hand? Can I use Ty-Rap on the oil lines and coolant lines to replace all my hose clamps? I'm looking for best reliability.

OK: I've been reading for a couple hours on Ty Rap fasteners and it looks like TY23MX works both for main fuel lines and carb lines (though I'll probably hose clamp and Ty Rap on the main lines). Looks like I don't need a tool but it makes it easier.
 
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what do the 787 with an accelerator pump run for springs? also what springs do 951s use?
Pretty sure the accelerator pump 787's use the 95 gram just like the 720's.
It depends on the year of the 951..... The 1997.5 (Gray Ghost) uses a one of a kind setup, all other 951's use a specific 95 gram that is only for the 951's and nothing else.
 
so I've got a 1997 seadoo speedster withn twinn 717 with a single carb on each. Is it the same kit and then same process for these?
 
Pretty sure the accelerator pump 787's use the 95 gram just like the 720's.
It depends on the year of the 951..... The 1997.5 (Gray Ghost) uses a one of a kind setup, all other 951's use a specific 95 gram that is only for the 951's and nothing else.
i have a 98. so if I got a genuine mikuni 951 rebuild kit that included 95 gram springs can i assume they are the right ones? its not running right and im not sure if thats the issue
 
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I use the Thomas & Betts expensive zip ties with the stainless locking tab for all the connections and have never had a leak or issue. Don't go cheap on these.
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And we are finished. I will update this with the accelerator pump rebuild supplement and carb installation shortly.
Great thread Miki!
Hi mate just cleaning The carburettor on the other motor and these are in bad condition,, similar to your carburettors you have worked on above, I can't get both of the side mixer screws out tried everything including WD-40 tapping it, vice grips, it will not come out the vice grips actually took the top of the brass off, as this is the one
Wound right in, do you think I should just leave it
 
Hi mate just cleaning The carburettor on the other motor and these are in bad condition,, similar to your carburettors you have worked on above, I can't get both of the side mixer screws out tried everything including WD-40 tapping it, vice grips, it will not come out the vice grips actually took the top of the brass off, as this is the one
Wound right in, do you think I should just leave it
Sometimes carbs are too far gone and can cause you an engine. Some times you have to bite the bullet and buy new carbs.
 
I have a question. I was into ski doo snowmobiles for ever, seems like. We always ran the PTO side of the rotary valve engines main jet 2 sizes richer. PTO side ran hotter unless jetting was made richer.
Why aren't sea doo rotary valves engines jetted in the same manor? PTO cylinder doesn't run hotter?
I'm new to the sea doo/PWC world.
 
Not enough to make a difference. The biggest reason is the Seadoo's have the entire lake as the cooling system to keep them nice and cool.
 
Not enough to make a difference. The biggest reason is the Seadoo's have the entire lake as the cooling system to keep them nice and cool.
So a mountain covered in 4 to 6 feet of snow with an ambient temp of +30 to -30 isn't enough to keep cool an engine?
 
Thanks @mikidymac for this post! Great info! I'm going back thru my carbs now (new to me 97 GTX I bought with a blown motor). It needed 3 turns on low to not fall on it's face (then was too rich). Ran good at 5k rpm but sputtered and popped at 3-4k. Ordered and received correct springs and mag side now pops at 30 versus 21 originally. PTO popped at 51! Both now pop at 30-32 repeatedly.

How concerned do I need to be that they pop at 30 vs 38 (manual says 33 +- 10 and Seadoo Source says 38)? I replaced the pto spring and it now pops at the same as mag so I'm not sure if I should:
A) try to get them up to 35-ish with a slight bend in the arm or
B) as long as they're almost the same, dont worry about it?
 
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