The Seadoo Carb Rebuild Thread

[eatpez]

I've been lirking here for a while and taking advantage of the wealth of experience and useful information on this forum.

I picked up a pair of 96 XPs last year and just finished rebuilding the carbs, rave valves, and water pressure regulator. I used real Mikuni kits and put it all new fuel lines.

My reward was that after priming the fuel system myself with a little air pressure both of them started right up!

This forum and a shop manual is about all anyone ever needs to keep their babies ripping!

 

[Matchoo5050]

Hi all I am new here and need some help. My 96 Seadoo XP is not running right. When I hit the gas it goes then bogs down then goes then bogs down over and over like clockwork. I was told it needed a carb clean out so I did the cab clean out and bought the good carb kit described here. There was bunch of crap on the screens and some stuff in the carbs I cleaned it out and put it back together with the new carb kits. I started the machine up it idled well so I took it to the water. When I took it out is seemed like it was not having the problem but then when I really hit the gas all the way it bogged down again. It definitely needed a carb clean out but it did not solve my problem. Anyone know what is happening?

 

[SteveontheLake]

If it's bogging down it typically means a lean condition. Have you adjusted the low side yet? While rebuilding, did you check where the low (and high) were set and put them in the right place? Also, did you check popoff pressure? I just did the same thing and my popoff was too low one one and too high on the other. I ordered the correct springs and that resolved the problem. The carbs should do pretty well with the recommended number of turns from the factory or seadoosource.

 

[Matchoo5050]

If it's bogging down it typically means a lean condition. Have you adjusted the low side yet? While rebuilding, did you check where the low (and high) were set and put them in the right place? Also, did you check popoff pressure? I just did the same thing and my popoff was too low one one and too high on the other. I ordered the correct springs and that resolved the problem. The carbs should do pretty well with the recommended number of turns from the factory or seadoosource.

I did not change anything as far as settings. Also I was told not to use the springs in the carb kit and leave the springs that were in it. I am not very mechanically inclined so I don't really know much about any of this. I have had the ski since 2002. Never had any trouble with it.

 

[Matchoo5050]

I'd like to add that the clean out did help the problem some the ski gets to higher RPMs before bogging down. Just before I did the clean out it would bog down by simply pressing the gas like 20%. But again it does not stay bogged down it will blast right off then bog down then blast right off.

 

[SteveontheLake]

Sounds like it could be a fuel supply issue. Do you still have the gray fuel lines or have they been replaced? Have you checked the mail fuel filter?

 

[Matchoo5050]

Yes it still has those lines. I have never put ethanol fuel in it but I think I may move to change all the lines next. I bypassed the fuel shut off knob to see if that had something to do with it but it did not.

 

[SteveontheLake]

My advice to you is to start a new thread as the senior guys here look for new threads with zero responses. They have much more experience than I do. You will get better responses that way as most dont watch this thread anymore (on a regular basis).

 

[eatpez]

If you have the tempo fuel lines, replace them. Ethanol causes green gunk to build up which eventually clog your carbs and cause it to run lean. Best way to check how your mix is doing is to pull the plugs, they should be a nice deep brown. Black = too rich and white = too lean.

You MUST keep your original springs instead of using the ones in the recommended kits. I used Mikuni kits and the pop-off pressure was way to low wit the included springs.

Did you perform all the tests in the service manual before re-installing the carbs?

My first recommendation is to test the fuel system and see if it passes the pressurization test in the manual. One of my skis had a bad check valve. If that's bad or you have a leak, the tank won't hold pressurization and it will starve your ski of fuel. With the vent line clamped, pull the line at the check valve and use that fitting to put 5 psi into the fuel tank. It should hold that pressure for 10-30 minutes. If not, soapy water will help you find and fix the leaks.

 

[mikidymac]

Thank you everyone for using the carb sticky. At this time I am going to lock this thread as it was made to be a How-To thread not a 10 page long how do I do this thread. Please start a new thread if you have questions and we will get you dialed in ASAP.
Thank you.