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Sudden stop

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If your motor turns over by hand until it hits a certain spot and then you can turn it the other direction until it hits another spot, you have an internal problem like you lost a crank rod bearing in the motor. You can pull pump because you will need to anyway but sure sounds like you blew a motor and it's time for a rebuild.
 
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It's not the pump. That's off and turns freely

It's not the starter or battery.

I can turn the engine less that 1/2" piston travel.

Does the rv have anything that could cause this ?
 
I betting something broke or it inhaled a screw from the intake. At this point, if you are sure the starter is not the issue, then what ever it is will likely need to the motor out to fix it. Note that the starter may be working, but the Bendix may be stuck or a tooth broke off or something like that. You can strip stuff off while it is in the ski, but the repair will most likely need the motor out. Sounds like something is floating around in there. It ran, then locked up. Then was OK for a while when you compression tested it. Now the thing moved a little and is locking it up again. Maybe pull the starter off first and look at it. Then just pull the motor if it still won't spin over by hand.
 
Sounding more and more like a crank or rotary shaft issue. Like others said time to pull the engine.
 
The carbon seal makes me a little nervous . Everything else is pretty strait forward. Remove driveshaft and four bolts for the engine. Looks like exhaust can stay attached.

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Something broke for sure.
 
I would pull the PTO and flywheel before you pull the cylinders so you can lock the crank.
 
Most shops won't do it. And I don't trust shops so I do all my own. Not that hard.

If you want to pull it and send it off with warranty go with FullBore or SES but SES is very hit and miss and you might get it back before summer but sometimes he takes months.
SBT has a great warranty but there quality is questionable and you won't get your engine back just a random rebuild and their shipping can be a deal breaker depending where you are.
 
I'll do it myself. I like challenges!

I have the manual but a little guidance would be helpful. Removing the engine. Easiest way to disconnect the driveshaft??
 
You will need to have the pump in to remove the carbon seal.
Then the driveshaft comes out the back.
 
Here's how the carbon ring works
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You need the pump in to hold the driveshaft so you can push the stainless hat back toward the back of the ski to expose either the clip in my picture or some have an o-ring and remove it then you can slide the driveshaft out the back of the ski.
 
Alright guys. Small update.

I can rotate the engine to a certain point and it gets tight, turn the other direction and at a certain point its gets tight. Sounds like I lost a rod bearing. Top end seems great and compression WAS great. I can rotate almost 1 complete revolution by hand. I will have more questions once engine is out. and will follow the direction of

Alright, for engine removal.....

Can someone direct me with the driveshaft disconnect with the jetpump already off? Other than that its thrrottle cables,fuel lines and oil lines.. 4 bolts and im out of there... Correct?
 
Put the pump back in with a couple of washers (spacers) where the drive shaft slides in. This will push the shaft toward the engine making it MUCH easier to pry the top hat back to remove the C-clip.
 
Alright guys. Small update.


Alright, for engine removal.....

Can someone direct me with the driveshaft disconnect with the jetpump already off? Other than that its thrrottle cables,fuel lines and oil lines.. 4 bolts and im out of there... Correct?

And starter/ground wires and water lines, cylinder drains and the pipe.
 
Thank you for all of the help guys.

I have decided this is far more work than it's worth to me, and I sold the ski for $600 (Only paid 800 for it).

More focus on the big boat for me.

I have a few parts that I have for sale on ebay (but will remove for a member here to avoid ebay fees)
Intake grate
VTS
Exhaust manifold
 
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