Still having issues with '02 GTX RFI in "limp mode"

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Drunkenaviator

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Replaced the plugs, fresh gas/oil, and a new rectifier, and it's still going into this "limp mode" thing about 80% of the time. Every now and then it wakes up and takes off like crazy. But most of the time full throttle will get exactly 3540 RPM. (It's not missing or skipping or anything strange, it definitely feels electronically limited.) But not showing any error messages or codes or whatnot.


Any ideas?
 
Was the replacement rectifier an OEM, or was it an aftermarket? I've seen A LOT of bad aftermarket units lately.
 
check wire harness you might not be getting signal to one of the fuel injectors i had the same issue with the rear cylinder injector wire. once we secured the wire harness it ran great.
 
check wire harness you might not be getting signal to one of the fuel injectors i had the same issue with the rear cylinder injector wire. once we secured the wire harness it ran great.

I'll definitely check this first. (But unfortunately I won't be checking much of anything for a while. I'm off to work until the 17th.) Ugh.
 
I'm beginning to think the issue might be ignition/fuel injection related. Here are the spark plugs I pulled out when I put the new ones in. The rear plug looks like what I've read should be "normal". The front one is very black.

20150722_204604.jpg

The symptoms are also dead-on for what the manual describes as limp-home mode. (Including even that letting it idle for an extended period of time will bring back normal operation... briefly).


I checked all the wires, and everything seemed to be connected. Starting it up on the trailer produces a normal 2300rpm idle (though with perhaps a bit more smoke than you'd expect).
 
Ok, I'm finally heading home from work tomorrow and want to get this thing running right! (Plus, the local dealer can't even take a look at it until next friday). So, what should I be checking and in what order to hopefully track this issue down? (And does the previously posted picture of the plugs help at all?)
 
Finally an update. Took it to a local guy who had a scanner. He said it had a code for a bad fuel injector. (And also checked everything else out, fuel pressure, etc etc). So I have a new injector in the mail and HOPEFULLY that'll get it running right.
 
Best of luck. Let's hope the scanner proves correct. Let us know.


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Yeah I am getting the same issue, so I'm trying to source 2 fresh injector, should be good after they get installed. As they leak, they not only foul plugs, but can wash down the cylinder of oil, and cause overheating and seizing.
Good luck to you!
Keep us posted
 
Ok, put new injectors in today and it's running again. Not sure if the problem is gone. It's idling about 1500rpm on the trailer. If you give it throttle it'll rev (But I didn't go too far out of the water, maybe a 5k rev or two). The idle seems low from what I've been reading on here, though.

The front cylinder was fouling plugs before, so I put a fresh one in and ran it for ~45 sec, and the plug was still clean (which sounds like a good sign to me). Won't be able to take it to the lake for a real test 'till tomorrow.

Is that idle ok, or is it a sign that the problem isn't fixed?
 
Idle is low for out of water specs. Most set it around 3 grand and fine tune in the water around 1500.


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Idle is low for out of water specs. Most set it around 3 grand and fine tune in the water around 1500.


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Hmm, I don't get it. I've been all over this thing. Compression is good, fuel pressure is good, rectifier is good, new injectors, fresh gas, just can't figure out what the issue is...
 
To be honest, the RFI may be different. Let's see what others have to say. It may be controlling itself.


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Just went back out to check everything over one more time, and noticed the rave valves seemed to be adjusted wrong. (I just put them back the way they were after pulling them to clean/check them earlier.) They look like the picture here for the carb engine, not the RFI one. Would that be contributing to the problem? ravevalve.jpg

(ie, they're tightened all the way, not flush like the manual says for the RFI engine)
 
Got out to the lake again to test the new injectors... Nothing. Same issue. Occasional blasts of "everything is fine", but 90% of the time exactly 3500 RPM. I'm completely stumped on this one.
 
Wonder if it's a spark issue, like the ignition coil playing up, I'm beginning to think that might be the cause of mine but I'm not sure
 
on the rfi's set the idle to 2200 rpm on the trailer then fine tune on the water to 1500 rpm. did you check for voltage at the battery while running? should be 13 to 14 volts at 3000 rpm. if it's like 15 to 16 volts then replace the rectifier. i recommend getting a heavy duty 4 tech one which is rewired to work on rfi's and di's from osd parts. dont go cheap as they are junk. a bad rectifier can put it in limp mode.
also make sure the tps and air flow sensor plugs are not switched as they share the same plug type. the wire color codes can be found in the manual. also pull the crank sensor and see if there's metal shavings.
 
Wonder if it's a spark issue, like the ignition coil playing up, I'm beginning to think that might be the cause of mine but I'm not sure

This is pretty much the only system I haven't tested or replaced yet. Anyone know how to check such a thing?
 
Sadly I don't. Nor do i know anyone in the area with one.


I did manage to get a gopro video of the problem in action, though. This is probably the best it's been. Runs just fine, but you can hear when it "steps down" and is limited to 3500. It really is like someone's flipping a switch, no stuttering or missing or anything, just "on or off". Its rare that it works this well for this long. (Generally the "on" periods are more like 30 seconds or so and that's it).

[video=youtube;x6RmgzIl6Ac]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x6RmgzIl6Ac&feature=youtu.be[/video]

(Ignore the ridiculous faces I'm making).
 
Wonder if it's a spark issue, like the ignition coil playing up, I'm beginning to think that might be the cause of mine but I'm not sure
I also think it could be the coil. I had a 2002 GTX RFI in my shop that had a bad spark plug and it would start and idle fine but in the water 3500 rpm was the top rpm. The hard thing was that the motor ran so good with only the one good spark plug ran without a skip just no power.
 
or could be a mpem not allowing enough voltage to the coil. it could recover and see high rpm and then draw it out loosing rpm the recover again. seems most definitely an electrical issue
heres what i have read.

RFI mpems will limit the digital handshake to the coils and retard timing advance around 4400 rpms if voltage drops off during acceleration.

this issue is very typical of that happening and then the ski gradually recovers voltage and the ignition allows progression to WOT operation.

not sure if this is your issue but worth a look see.
 
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