Starts, Shuts Off Consistently, bought it this way

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JimmyJimmy

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Charged battery, load tested, seems fine, on a trickle charge while I've been trying things. Fuel pressure is consistent, 45 psi I think. Pressurizes when lanyard put on and stays there. Two beeps when lanyard on, dash goes through its stuff. Starts, shuts off after like 2 seconds, every time. Took fuel pump out, no water or debris in tank. All injectors fire w a noid light. All Injectors spray. All 3 spark plugs spark, put in new spark plugs. New dess post. New on off switch. Clean battery terminals a nd grounds in front of engine. Batt ground and two small grounds all near each other. Same thing, starts shuts off. Do I need to buy the candoo thing. As you might have noticed I fix cars all my life, all vehicles, all the stuff Including rebuilding automatic transmissions. Kinda frustrated because I cant see any codes if they are there. Or live data etc. Do this shit all day on a different kind of vehicle. Any suggestions? Or should I invest in the candoo thingy.
 
06 GTI .Charged battery, load tested, seems fine, on a trickle charge while I've been trying things. Fuel pressure is consistent, 45 psi I think. Pressurizes when lanyard put on and stays there. Two beeps when lanyard on, dash goes through its stuff. Starts, shuts off after like 2 seconds, every time. Took fuel pump out, no water or debris in tank. All injectors fire w a noid light. All Injectors spray. All 3 spark plugs spark, put in new spark plugs. New dess post. New on off switch. Clean battery terminals a nd grounds in front of engine. Batt ground and two small grounds all near each other. Same thing, starts shuts off. Do I need to buy the candoo thing. As you might have noticed I fix cars all my life, all vehicles, all the stuff Including rebuilding automatic transmissions. Kinda frustrated because I cant see any codes if they are there. Or live data etc. Do this shit all day on a different kind of vehicle. Any suggestions? Or should I invest in the candoo thingy.
 
Something like the crank sensor maybe? T.O.P.S sensor? Tough to tell when there are no codes, sounds like a sensor or open circuit somewhere. Oil level good?
 
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Appreciate Digdog, yeah oil level is good. The on off switch actually had a continuity issue @ the wires near the button area, renewed it, thought I had found something, still same. Bought a new D.E.S.S. even though it ohmed out ok. The T.OP.S. I tried to ohm out. I actually have a s/c ski also that's broke, compared both tops switches to try and compare, no continuity no matter what I do on either so that was my last idea. I really dont want to just try parts. Plus I'm starting to go bonkers knowing if I just scan this thing maybe I can start to approach this thing the way your supposed too. The on off switch method of getting codes either doesn't apply or isn't working on this one. Tried that. Noth works until I connect the lanyard
 
Can you try a piece of annealing wire or any small gauge wire to jump the plug for the TOPS sensors you might be able to at least try to start it. They are a mercury switch so you have to have them in the upright position to test them, they run back to the computer so I am not sure how much voltage is run in that circuit but you should get continuity from a mercury switch.
 
I did try jumping it. There is 3 wires. 2 from the memp? Comp. 3rd goes to the eco. I jumped the two that go to that memp. Computer. Same thing
 
Are the two from the mpem the correct two wires to jump? I tried jumping them w the hard shell connected to the tops and not connected. Same condition. It seemed to have blown a 5 amp fuse and now the dash ain't lit up probably until I replace that fuse?
 
I am not sure, the manual does not give a testing procedure for the TOPS switch, has to be that or one of the engine sensors. You might have to get it diagnosed by a dealer.
 
I think I'm gonna invest in that candoo thingy. I live on a pretty big pond. I got this one, there's a 2nd one broke on the trailer. My nephew lives here also, he just got one. I fix cars trucks, bikes etc. so my as well get into these things. Once the learning curve is over you can make money
 
Candoo Pro came in today, very fast delivery. Two days I think. You have to configure, update etc. To your laptop which I did fairly easily. Spent some time looking at what it will do and what it will look like on the screen. Looks very promising, I feel pretty confident I will be able to see something now to indicate why this thing turns on and shuts off. Raining and running out of daylight right now. I'm gonna hit it in the am. I'll let ya know
 
I couldn't wait, p1511, cant clear it. Says lake temp sensor -76F.??
I think I see some -25F eng temp sensor codes on the 60 second movies it does. On a car if that happens it will make it go so rich I would be surprised if it starts. I wonder?? Cant clear it, that cant be right
 
Look at this procedure manual, it says you can disconnect/disable the sensor in the settings page of the Candoo. I would try to see if there is a wiring fault first and maybe just unplug it if you cannot disconnect it by software. Judging by the other sensor being out of wack I think there is a wire rubbed through and it's making ground, one website said the code shouldn't stop the engine from running ? I am not sure if the injectors on these could compensate to the point where it would get too rich to run as these are only warm weather machines, but who know for sure. Good luck!
 

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Thanks, I'll ck that out. Because I have two skis here I can see that the other one has a water speed/lake temp sensor on it. Mine has the fiberglass molded area where one could go, but it's not there and has never been? So... why is that code and a live data stream reading there? It could be my problem, or it could have been there from day one and be erroneous if this ski doesn't use the sensor and they just leave the circuit there? Have to look into that a lil further. I tried all kinds of things w all the keys I have. Very easy to see your keys digital I'd. Easy to add one in, erase it, make it a normal learn or rental. I think I'm going to buy a new one and program it. Cheap enough, now I can program it easily. The Candoo reminds you that even though the keys microchip can be read and programmed doesn't mean that the mechanical magnetic part of of it isn't broke. I'm seeing signs that the key itself might be something that gets replaced a lot because of the magnet problem
 
I wonder if it isn't the MPEM itself? Looks like the power relays through it instead of having a separate 30 amp relay like on newer models.
 
Yesterday, I didnt realize using the Candoo you have to click on "write" when adding or deleting keys or going into settings and changing/getting rid of the lake temp code since the ski doesn't have a lake temp sensor installed. But after I successfully added a new key and changed setting for lake temp sensor code, I now have a tops code, P1502. Cant clear it, says "active" haven't seen it before? But its there now! 3 wires, one "hot" one from MPEM, another from MPEM ohms out good, 3rd goes to ECM, Ohms out good. I've another used TOPs sensor from a other ski that's also a no start tried it, same code. Ecm, MPEM, or TOPS sensor? Going to try a new TOPS sensor. This thing is starting to get to me. I watched a jet ski video recently, I was like wow, these things actually do work
 
I suggested the TOPS a while back, I hope this gets it fixed. I read in another thread a dealer reset the TOPS but not sure how it's done. Look at this page included and see if it helps, try flipping the TOPS over and see if it still does it. The page has some suggestions for your code, this is from my 2015 RXT service manual.
 

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Ah, there is even more info in the "actions" section of that trouble free clip you just posted. I brought both sensors into work so I could have some assistance. We made up a harness to make it easier to test. One sensor no continuity at all. The other seemed to work ok, when you "tip" it or have it in correct position, but resistance was not close to spec. Took one apart to see how it works. It has an electric eye, lil circuit board in there. Works a lil like your garage door electric eye that will stop your door when something " breaks" the eye. Ordered one today from a local dealer
 
JimmyJimmy said:
Ah, there is even more info in the "actions" section of that trouble free clip you just posted. I brought both sensors into work so I could have some assistance. We made up a harness to make it easier to test. One sensor no continuity at all. The other seemed to work ok, when you "tip" it or have it in correct position, but resistance was not close to spec. Took one apart to see how it works. It has an electric eye, lil circuit board in there. Works a lil like your garage door electric eye that will stop your door when something " breaks" the eye. Ordered one today from a local dealer
Click to expand...
Nice to know how it works, did the dealer have any idea if it would cause your problem?
 
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