Starter just "clicks" 96 GTS 587

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I am antsy to get back on the water...so I’m kind of going to do both. I bought an inexpensive new starter so I can get up and going again in a couple days. And in case the new ones are really as crappy as people are saying...I also ordered a $20 rebuild kit. That will give me time to figure out how to do that properly. And when/if the new one fails...I will have a backup.
 
Absolute junk starters. I would rebuild your old one and take it with you every trip.
When we say these aftermarket starters are junk we aren't saying that to make you spend money we are saying that to save you a wasted trip to the lake. They are junk and break at the most inopportune times.
 
Yep I plan to rebuild it. Sounds like people are saying my rusty old one looks good enough to rebuild...so I will do it. Just a matter of whether I could have it ready for July 4th that prompted me to buy that new one. Hopefully it will get me on the water this weekend...that alone was worth $56 to me. and if not...Amazon will have my back, I imagine, to return it. I get it...you get what you pay for!!
 
Yep I plan to rebuild it. Sounds like people are saying my rusty old one looks good enough to rebuild...so I will do it. Just a matter of whether I could have it ready for July 4th that prompted me to buy that new one. Hopefully it will get me on the water this weekend...that alone was worth $56 to me. and if not...Amazon will have my back, I imagine, to return it. I get it...you get what you pay for!!
Here is a picture of the starter guts that you'll be digging into .... have fun.
 

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I tried ordering them from Amazon for about 6 weeks and they never shipped with the brush for the positive terminal. I finally got my money back after 4 attempts by Amazon to send them and all were missing it. I have been ordering them from eBay with no issues.
 
Quick question... When installing the starter back in there, is loctite needed? In general, is there a rule of thumb when you should be using loctite on bolts vs. using grease? I have read on SeaDoo Forum and Iboats forum (for my outboard motor), and there is a lot of information about when to use Anti-Sieze or grease or loctite, and it's not always consistent. I would think anything that is in the motor and could be vibrating loose would need loctite. But some people with more experience than I have say not to use it and to grease bolts that they're gonna need to remove at some point in the future...because things seize up, and that's no fun.
 
Use a little red loctite, not a bunch. There should be a flat and lock washer on all three bolts as well. Too much loctite is a waste and can just cause trouble down the road. I only use a couple of drops on any bolt I put it on for basic motor work.

Grease on bolts, in some instances, can be used where getting precise torque numbers is needed. You can torque a rusty bolt to a spec, but it might not be tight because the rust put up resistance that resulted in the torque wrench indicating a false read. The ideal scenario is to clean any rust, old loctite, corrosion off the bolts and out of the bolt hole (chase the threads) with any motor work. That level of cleanliness isn't needed here. Make sure the bolt threads are clean and free of grease so everything spins together smooth and the loctite can make a good bond to clean metal.
 
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thank you. I have the blue loctite but will have to get a tube of the red kind. These bolts all had a flat washer but not a locking one. Should I go to the hardware store and add a stainless lock washer?
 
I would. Just a little extra security. Trust me, after fighting that starter back in you will be kicking yourself if the bolts work loose later on and you have to go back in a second time for no good reason.
 
One trick I use for that lower bolt, since it is a pain and impossible to see or get your hands in where it goes. I use a short 13mm socket on the long extension, you already know this, but I fill that socket with loctite gel seal (518?) or some thing similar. Fill the socket and squish that bolt into it, it will hold the bolt solid enough while you feed the extension under the starter. It takes patience and feel, but eventually that bolt will hit that lower hole and feed in. Do the upper bolt with the battery ground and the rear bracket bolts first so the starter is in place, that lower bolt is the bear of the whole project. Also be sure to have the gasket in place on the end if the starter or you will get water into the mag flywheel area over time.
 
When we say these aftermarket starters are junk we aren't saying that to make you spend money we are saying that to save you a wasted trip to the lake. They are junk and break at the most inopportune times.


My aftermarket starter failed, suddenly with no fore warning, when I had water in my motor. I had to pull the oem starter off my Son's SP and throw it on my XP just to get it started to clear the motor out before it could rust.
 
...but I fill that socket with loctite gel seal (518?) or some thing similar. Fill the socket and squish that bolt into....

That is a great idea. I don’t have any of that...but even if I just used something like hot glue or silly putty or something to temporarily hold it in the socket will be a big help!

Quick question on the gasket comment. I don’t believe there was any gasket when I removed the old one.

Are you talking about this rubber o-ring? Or should there have been something else in between starter and engine?

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The parts diagram for that model does show an o-ring. So yes, make sure that gets used.

I assumed they used a gasket like was standard on the earlier models, sorry about the confusion.
 
Thanks for confirming. I was worried maybe a former owner got rid of it or something. Thanks! New starter rebuild kit comes next week.
 
Got the starter installed and now my issue is fixed. Turns over great! Quick tip for anyone who does what I did and doesn’t remove the exhaust system. Make sure you attach the positive lead from the gray box to the starter post before you mount the starter to the engine block...otherwise you do not have much clearance to get a socket in there. Probably same for the negative cable! I opted to buy a cheap set of metric ratcheting wrenches rather than unbolt the whole thing and start over, and that worked for me. But caused a trip to the store. Also...somehow securing the bolt to the ratchet is very helpful as suggested by @AKnarrowback! I used a daub of hot glue and it worked great. [emoji106]
 
Now I’ve gotten the rebuild kit in the mail to repair the old starter. I took it apart and BAM what a mess. Black Liquid pouring out everywhere. It reeked the same as that smell I noticed when I removed starter from the engine block. Chemical smelling. Is this liquid supposed to be in the starter or is that just lakewater that worked it’s way in?
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Is this worth rebuilding? I bought all replacement o-rings and planned to coat it real good with rustoleum when complete. But now not so sure.
 
Now I’ve gotten the rebuild kit in the mail to repair the old starter. I took it apart and BAM what a mess. Black Liquid pouring out everywhere. It reeked the same as that smell I noticed when I removed starter from the engine block. Chemical smelling. Is this liquid supposed to be in the starter or is that just lakewater that worked it’s way in?
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Is this worth rebuilding? I bought all replacement o-rings and planned to coat it real good with rustoleum when complete. But now not so sure.
 
Liquid is not supposed to be in there.

I would still rebuild it unless you find something burned up, blown up etc. Is it the worst one I have seen? Yes. Is it for sure going to work perfect? You never know until you try.
 
Lol...ok, I’ll give it a shot! It sure surprised me, as I watched a handful of YouTube videos for rebuilding and none of those had black fluid pouring out!!! Glad I didn’t do it on my kitchen counter! I guess the good news is it must be pretty well sealed because it was trapping that liquid in very well until I took it apart! I’ll see what I can do once it’s dried up. I definitely can confirm it was water-based. No wet residue left behind once I sat it in the sun for a while.
 
I'm still figuring out this forum, but I think I (intentionally) deleted a couple of posts where I had questions which I no longer have. Hopefully that's the case. Anyway..related to my old questions...I looked at a handful of images online to figure out how to orient the brushes into the brushes holders in the starter rebuild kit, so I have that figured out.

Anyway....I got it all cleaned up and put back together, but I'm second guessing if it is working as well as it should. I don't really have anything to compare to, so hoping the community can help me. Does this starter seem like it's working as it should with a new brush kit installed? In my mind...this is slower than I expected. (Video shows me testing the rebuilt starter with car jumper cables to a battery measuring 12.9 volts) ----> iCloud

For now, I have the cheap (junk) starter installed in the Sea Doo and it is working just great. I was hoping to get the original one rebuilt so I'd have a good backup and possible replacement when it's needed.
 
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I think I’ll start a new thread on this...since I’ve kind of resolved the original issue. Now I’m looking for help on the rebuild.
 
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