Starter just "clicks" 96 GTS 587

[Arriva2001]

Thanks for all of the help. Yes, the carb, i believe, is fine. End of last season when I bought it, it was having a hard starting issue. So I took to a local mechanic and he took the carburetor off and cleaned it (i'm a little nervous about trying something like that myself...never have taken on anything that complex mechanically).

He suggested the replacement of the fuel lines to prevent future issues, so I did that over the winter. It ran really good the one time i used it this spring other than the surging I had reported...which seemed resolved after replacing that fuel line last weekend and removing that extra fuel filter. However, I went from that issue right into a no-starting issue. I've had an intermittent issue the past few times I used it where the starter would not engage on the first press of the button. But on the second or third time, it worked fine. So I am thinking this has been waiting to happen for awhile now... I do have a question though. I'm not really sure how to use a multimeter properly to test electronics. Any resource or youtube you could recommend? I have watched a few videos so far and I'm just not sure I'm following the general concept of how the multimeter tool helps you to understand how an electrical component is functioning/not functioning. I want to try to figure this out on my own...i'm pretty persistent... but could use a point in the right direction if possible.

 

[AKnarrowback]

The multimeter tells you if there is voltage at different parts of the circuit. It also tells you if the circuit is complete and capable of giving the current a path to follow. A multimeter will not give you an absolute yes or no regarding every component in the circuit. The big example is the starter. It is an electronic device that turns electrical energy into mechanical energy, it can have voltage to it, current flowing through it yet not operate properly (see my next post).

Get a basic digital multimeter from home depot or lowes. For what you need to do with your Sea-Doo you will need it to read DC voltage up to 14 volts, continuity and Ohms. Any good, basic, meter does all of these.

The two settings you will use the most are DC volts and continuity.

Keep doing research on basic DC circuits and how to use a multimeter.

The positive terminal of the battery goes out to all the switches and components of the motor, using the red wire, and all the current returns on the black cable to the negative terminal.

The motor case and the negative cable are at the same potential, no voltage difference, that is why the cable goes to the starter mounting bolt. The motor body acts as a conductor for parts of the circuit. Not sure if the 96 gts has the negative cable attach like my 94 sp on the starter, but the electrical theory is the same.

The easiest thing to do is clamp the negative lead of the meter to the negative post on the battery and use only the positive (red) lead to check individual points of the system for voltage checks.

Continuity checks require both meter leads to be moved around to different parts of the system.

It's a 12 volt system so don't worry about getting electrocuted, just don't short any positive to negative wires or you will get sparks.

 

[AKnarrowback]

Just to add.

I had a starter that worked just fine 90% of the time, then out of the blue it would refuse to spin. I could hear the solenoid engage but the starter wouldn't react. I could go back later, having done nothing to the machine, and everything would work perfect. Over time the problem became worse by showing up when the engine was warm, same symptoms of solenoid working but the starter wouldn't. I would let things cool down and it would work again. Over the next couple of rides the cranking speed of the motor became slower until it finally died. The brushes on the commutator can hit a "dead spot" and not let the current through if the brushes are worn or the commutator is dirty/contaminated.

With the machine being that old I would seriously look into new brushes and a good cleaning of the starter.

 

[Ckrawiec]

See attached dissertation of me chasing a 12V low problem through my ski....could easily manifest itself as a hard start, hard restart problem, starter clicks, won't crank, etc.....IF YOUR Battery is weak/weakened/compromised....the ski will fight you to start. EVERYTHING really hinges on a good battery, so we will start there.

 

[Arriva2001]

Thank you so much for sending your write up. I can’t wait to get off work today to start digging in!

 

[Arriva2001]

Any idea what part number is used for a starter rebuild kit? Thought I might start shopping just in case. It looks like the original starter part number is 278000485. Are rebuild kits for Sea-Doo pretty universal?

 

[mikidymac]

I just buy the $20 kits from eBay

 

[Ckrawiec]

I'm sorry, I can't answer that question directly.....I purchased some aftermarket starter (and have no issues with it since)....I also subsequently had the original starter rebuilt at an electrical shop, so I have the original as a spare (but I hope to never need it).

 

[Ckrawiec]

See attached dissertation of me chasing a 12V low problem through my ski....could easily manifest itself as a hard start, hard restart problem, starter clicks, won't crank, etc.....IF YOUR Battery is weak/weakened/compromised....the ski will fight you to start. EVERYTHING really hinges on a good battery, so we will start there.

I should also mention for the sake of thoroughness....besides a good battery, the spark and fuel all need to be in sync to get the ski started....THINK F.A.S.T (for an internal combustion engine) - Fuel, Air, Spark, Timing. Air is usually not a problem, Hopefully Timing is not a problem.....kinda narrows things down a bit for us to Fuel (i.e carbs) and Spark (battery, wiring, buttons, etc....).

If all the planets are aligned, the ski should start relatively easily....couple of button pushes, maybe a little choke (if needed).

 

[Arriva2001]

I’m really hoping the F.A.&T. from the acronym are fine! Ski ran great on its last run right before I couldn’t get starter to turn. Wouldnt have suspected it to not start.

 

[Ckrawiec]

I’m really hoping the F.A.&T. from the acronym are fine! Ski ran great on its last run right before I couldn’t get starter to turn. Wouldnt have suspected it to not start.

Your problem sounds electrical to me.....the battery needs to be healthy to get the ski off on the right foot. I've had trouble starting my ski after putting a brand spanking NEW battery in it.... UNTIL I resolved my 12V low issue (wiring/corrosion) AND got my carbs tuned up just right. It now starts pretty much on the first button push, even after sitting for a week (we only get to use it on the weekends).

As you say, the ski runs well AFTER it starts, so that is pointing directly at S...SPARK which really begins at the battery to get things going mechanically speaking (turning over the flywheel, etc).

I hope my dissertation yields some good results for you.....if nothing else, you will learn more about your ski in general.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I realize the current starter is quite old but keep in mind if not for this event but in the future, if the jet pump is seizing up, the starter will have difficulty spinning the engine over as well.

 

[Arriva2001]

I realize the current starter is quite old but keep in mind if not for this event but in the future, if the jet pump is seizing up, the starter will have difficulty spinning the engine over as well.

How might I test this theory out? I turned the driveshaft wheel PTO wheel over by hand (counterclockwise) and it seemed smooth. How easy should it be to turn by hand?

 

[mikidymac]

If you turned it by hand it is probably ok. You would know if something was binding.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I'd say it's not dragging in this case since you confirmed the PTO rotates with relative ease.

 

[Arriva2001]

So I haven't made a lot of progress today, but I plan to tomorrow. So far I've printed off the "dissertation" from @Ckrawiec (thank you!) to help guide me, and have purchased some fine grit sandpaper and dielectric grease. My replacement starter solenoid part comes from Amazon tomorrow...so, after work, I plan to install that and start doing some additional troubleshooting. I actually read the boring user manual from the multimeter I have had in my workbench for years today (free gift from Harbor Freight) and watched a couple of youtube videos...so I have a little more confidence for tomorrow when I start troubleshooting! I'm really hoping it's a wiring/connection issue or just the solenoid..because removing all of the parts I need to get access to the starter has me a little spooked! (I think i have to remove the entire exhaust system on the GTS?)
I did purchase metric sockets today too...just in case I need to take things apart..but I really hope it doesn't come to that. Rebuilding a starter sounds better to me as a winter project when I have the time to learn and not waste valuable sunny Nebraska weekends..but I'll take it as it comes i guess!

Here's hoping the new solenoid is the cure...but at least i have a rough plan for next steps if I need to keep looking, thanks to you all.

 

[mikidymac]

You aren't rebuilding the solenoid, you are rebuilding the starter correct?
Your post above says solenoid kit?

 

[Arriva2001]

I ordered a replacement solenoid which I will put in today. When I jumped it with pliers the starter spun. Before that..it only clicked. So I’m assuming solenoid is bad. However...starter still spin very slowly when I jumped the solenoid, so others have suggested I might have a low voltage problem or bad starter. I was looking for a starter rebuild kit online proactively—-but haven’t bought it because I don’t know yet if it is needed. I’m hoping it’s not!

 

[Arriva2001]

I’m assuming starter is 23 years old!!

 

[Ckrawiec]

I’m assuming starter is 23 years old!!

Yeah, probably is....is your starter under the carbs - STARBOARD (right side of ski- like mine)...relatively easy peasy to get to if you take out the carbs or the PORT - left side of the ski - exhaust side (arrrgh). My orientation reference is based on sitting on the ski.

Take the load off the engine (remove the spark plugs), the starter should have an easier time of spining the flywheel too.

Problem is....a 23 year old starter may be "weak", even if it does spin....the machines have a crappy life dealing with a wet environment all the time (especially inside a hull, water always gets in there somehow/someway) and the starter is always down low.....water and electrics have a confrontational relationship....nothing is waterproof either.....moisture will get in EVENTUALLY.

 

[Ckrawiec]

I ordered a replacement solenoid which I will put in today. When I jumped it with pliers the starter spun. Before that..it only clicked. So I’m assuming solenoid is bad. However...starter still spin very slowly when I jumped the solenoid, so others have suggested I might have a low voltage problem or bad starter. I was looking for a starter rebuild kit online proactively—-but haven’t bought it because I don’t know yet if it is needed. I’m hoping it’s not!

A solenoid click is not bad....that's telling you the electromagnet inside is moving and is supposed to bridge the posts internally to allow full battery voltage across the posts to kick the starter. The solenoid could however still bad with burnt spots internally so the starter doesn't get FULL voltage from the battery. They are cheap enough to warrant replacement, so do it, IMHO.

 

[Arriva2001]

Yeah, probably is....is your starter under the carbs - STARBOARD (right side of ski- like mine)...relatively easy peasy to get to if you take out the carbs or the PORT - left side of the ski - exhaust side (arrrgh). My orientation reference is based on sitting on the ski.

I truthfully don’t know yet. I have only been able to find videos of other model ski’s and those have been on the carb side. I read a real old thread on a forum with a different year GTS, and they claimed starter was under exhaust and they removed it from behind with really long socket extensions and a lot of maneuvering...rather than having to remove the whole exhaust system. The manual doesn’t show where it is and neither does the parts diagram that I can tell...so gonna just have to follow the cables to locate it I think.

 

[mikidymac]

Your ski has the 580 engine, starter will be on the exhaust side.

 

[Ckrawiec]

Under Exhaust side....oh dang.....if there is a way to avoid removing the exhaust...I would endeavor to do so.....it might be painful and agonizing...but taking the exhaust apart is not very appealing IMHO....get a GTX .

Even with the GTX, I had to work blind (only by feel) to get my starter out and back in even with the carbs removed....there was a bolt that was tucked underneath......I could feel it, wrench it out, start it back, but I could not see it once my arm and hand were down in there. Patience, patience, patience....if you can get the starter out, you can get is back in....EVENTUALLY....walk away when all seems lost and take a breather.....get your wits and try again. Good luck.....we're pulling for ya!

 

[Arriva2001]

Yeah I saw a video of someone removing (what seemed like) about half of the innards of the engine compartment...kinda spooked me...which led me to my very first post about “is it possible that it could be anything besides the starter?” I’ll post results after work once I have installed new solenoid.