SOLVED: 2005 Challenger 180 4-Tec SCIC max rpm is ~6400???

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ODavis

Member
I have a new to me 2005 Challenger 180 with a 4-Tec SCIC 215hp engine.

In trying to fix the max RPM issue I have replaced the following:
Spark plug(s)
Coil(s)
Injector(s)

I thought the boost pressure was going to be the next thing, but not sure what it should be?
It's almost a full atmosphere over normal, so is that low or normal?

The throttle is at max throw, the first half of the travel is responsive, the second half is like jelly.
The TPS sensor does travel 100%, although reads 8x.xx% always at full WOT. Should this be replaced?

From CANDoo Trace file:
Monitor Result for RPM = 6426 RPM
Monitor Result for TPS = 84.19 %
Monitor Result for Battery Voltage = 13.48 V
Monitor Result for Engine Temp = 194 F
Monitor Result for Intake Temp = 82 F
Monitor Result for Intake Pressure = 13.43 PSI
Monitor Result for Exhaust Temp = 169 F
Monitor Result for ECU - Idle Speed = False
Monitor Result for ECU - Start Button = False
Monitor Result for ECU - TOPS = False
Monitor Result for ECU - Drowned Mode = False

Not sure if this matters or not, but after about 15min there is over a gallon of warm water in the bilge.
Possibly exhaust leak? Cracked manifold?

Anyway does anyone know what the intake (turbo boost) pressure should be at WOT? Or have any clue where I should look next?

Thanks for reading and any input would be welcomed, thanks.
 
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My next thing is going to be the pump, I bought a rebuild kit and Solas impeller, 14/19. Maybe what the PO had on was too aggressive. But a new wear ring, impeller and bearing can't hurt.

After that I'll circle back to sensors maybe. Going to have the turbo (SC) rebuilt over the winter so I know what I have.
 
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Yeah, I am going to change the filter(s) after I do the jet pump. I guess I should also check the pressure, 55-60 PSI, I think?

Thanks
 
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My thoughts:

1.. For the TPS, there is a routine to calibrate the TPS in CanDoo. Run that to make sure your TPS is calibrated.
2.. The fuel pump should be 60 PSI (58). I put an inline gauge on it as you might get 60 PSI at idle and not at WOT. (Mine was fine)
3.. The fuel filters are easy but a PITA. I changed mine this year (2011 Speedster) and it was original but actually not in bad shape.
 
My thoughts:

1.. For the TPS, there is a routine to calibrate the TPS in CanDoo. Run that to make sure your TPS is calibrated.
2.. The fuel pump should be 60 PSI (58). I put an inline gauge on it as you might get 60 PSI at idle and not at WOT. (Mine was fine)
3.. The fuel filters are easy but a PITA. I changed mine this year (2011 Speedster) and it was original but actually not in bad shape.

Thank you, I was considering the TPS cal and now I will definitely do this.

I removed the pump to fix the fuel gauge and looked at the filter and mine wasn't bad, but should probably change anyway.

Adding in the pressure gauge sounds like the right thing to do. Thanks, great idea. Question on this though, is the 60PSI while running or ignition on and engine off?

I'm going to order the parts and do the cal. I'll report back on this. Thank you!
 
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My thoughts:

1.. For the TPS, there is a routine to calibrate the TPS in CanDoo. Run that to make sure your TPS is calibrated.
2.. The fuel pump should be 60 PSI (58). I put an inline gauge on it as you might get 60 PSI at idle and not at WOT. (Mine was fine)
3.. The fuel filters are easy but a PITA. I changed mine this year (2011 Speedster) and it was original but actually not in bad shape.

I was able to verify some of this.

The fuel pump pressure is 58 PSI while idling. The filters are next, I guess the volume could be low with dirty filters. I added a mechanical pressure gauge in line but am going to swap that out with a pressure sender and put a gauge in the blank spot in the dash. Can't hurt to monitor that.

I tried doing the TPS reset, but Candoo basically crashed and now I can't get it to work, so I am working through that with Dennis M.


Does anyone know what the boost pressure should be at WOT?
 
Ok so I checked the Supercharger and it's done. Free wheeling. I am sending it out to be fixed. I also pulled the oil filter and it has crap in it. Besides the oil filter and changing the oil what other area's need to be cleaned out?

Going to try and flush the engine in hopes of not having to pull and rebuild.

Thanks.
 
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So now that I have had sometime to look at this, I am going to pull the engine and inspect. At the very least clean the engine out and replace with new oil pumps. Swap out the head for solid valves (if needed) and possibly through new bearings and rings at it as well. A semi-rebuild if you will.
 
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