Simple question with no luck to the answer

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Tx_shane

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This is my first post. I have lurk in the halls for years but finally signed up. I have GTX's with the 787 or 747 engines. I know the GTX was offered with 3 engines. I just don't remember the exact number. I know they are 110 hp. I know the wear ring is bad in one for sure but not sure on the other. I just got them out of the shop for carb rebuilds. Both run great but the top end is not where it should be. My question is, where should the rpm's be at at WOT. One bike runs 45 mph on glass top water and the other 51 or so. The dealer told me the wear ring was bad in one but the other checked out ok. I will do the wear ring replacement myself. I just order them. Where does the rev limiter come it to play. Both bikes run 6900 to almost 7000k. What should the top end be on perfect water? Both ski's have less than 50 hours on them.

Thanks
 
Here is some wear ring replacement info for you to review;


For starters....

1.) remove the three hoses on the inside of the boat. (attached to the pump) if you do not do this first, you will forget and cause all kinds of problems for yourself!!!

2.) Remove the steering rod, 10mm bolt and nut.

3.) Remove 4 13mm bolts holding nozzle on. with this off you will have a much better view of the wear ring.

4.) Remove 4, 17mm bolts from the pump to hull. make sure you pull off all the lock washers and washers to ease pulling the pump.

5.) This is the tricky part.... Most shops gob all kinds of silicon on when replacing the pump and so it makes it a pain to pull it away from the hull.
You need to pull the pump away from the hull as straight as possible.

They sell a pump removal tool but I just made my own. i cut a length of 2x4 that I set across the rear of the ski and drilled 2 holes in it. I thread long 13 mm bolts with washers through the top two holes of the pump where the nozzle mounts. This pulls it away nicely with a butterfly impact.

6.) now you have your pump and impeller in your grubby hands, the next step is to remove the 3 8mm bolts on the cone. Make sure you have something to catch the oil and nose pluggs.... This stuff reaks to high heaven...

7.) after cleaning out the oil I place the pump impeller side up in a vice. (grabbing the flat end of the pump shaft in a vice)

8.) place impeller removal tool in the impeller and grab a 1/2" drive 3/4 socket with a huge breaker bar. Twist it counterclockwise till it pops loose. (may take some pressure. I seriously use a 4 foot pipe on the end of my breaker bar and use a popping motion rather than smooth pressure.)

9.) now that you have the impeller out take your new wear ring and put it in the wifes freezer.

10.) back from the freezer you have to get the old one out of the pump. ( I have found the easiest way is to take a saws all and cut a slit in the wear ring the full length of the pump) Be carefully only to cut the wear ring and not the pump.

11.) now take a large standard screwdriver and a hammer and tap the screwdriver gently between the wear ring and the pump all the way around to separate them.

12.) Clean all the white corrosion off the pump where you will be putting the new wear ring

13.) now after tackling this task go to the freezer and grab that wear ring. (don't dilly dally with it) get it to the garage and slide it in the pump. you may have to tap lightly with a rubber mallet. If it doesn't slide in then you didn't clean the pump good enough. Repeat steps 9 and 12.....

14.) reinstall the impeller in the reverse order.

Note: it is very important not to pinch the thrust washer when re-installing the impeller shaft. thats why its a good idea to do it in a vice rather than on the ground sideways.

Once the impeller is tight you should have 1/8 - 1/4 inch play in the shaft back and fourth. if you don't start over and inspect your thrust washer you probably pinched it.

15) Inspect the rubber o ring and if it is good apply silicon and reinstall the cone. Make sure the allen fill plug is on top.

16) lower the front of the ski and add oil to the cone. when it is full, take a brake and have a drink. There is air in the cone and when you go back you will see that it is low. top it off and take another brake... do this until the fluid does not lower again. I often start the ski for a few seconds to make sure oil is all the way worked into the bearings and all the air is out.

17) wipe silicon on the set screw and screw it in (be sure not to run it all the way into the cone. just deeper than flush is fine. let it sit 24 hours to cure the silicon and put the nozzle back on.

18) Use Sea Doo 75w90 GL5 Synthetic Polyolester Oil



If you have any other questions give us a shout.

Karl
 
WOW Karl...

I just did this 2 months ago, and I don't remember it being that difficult:D

I guess there WERE a lot of steps. Good write-up and description. Wish I had it then...:cheers:

More importantly, I am glad mine came apart and went back together without any of the potential snags I could have run in to.
 
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I accumulated the information from different post and put it all together. I don't deserve the full credit...I just thought it would help other members not forget anything...all the steps are here, it just seems like a lot when you read every detail.
Karl
 
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