Seadoo XP won’t start

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Water Crafts
1998 seadoo xp limited
2002 seadoo xp limited
#1
Just recently bought 2 seadoo xp, one is 1998 and one is 2002. Guy told me it’s been sitting for 2 years and it run before he put them away. He said all I need to do is clean carbs and it should be running again. What steps should I do first? Help please
 


tobytd

Active Member
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125
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Norris Lake, TN
Water Crafts
98 GTX
97 GTX
96 Polaris SLT 700 (sold)
#2
look for Mikidymac's carb rebuild guide .Mix oil & gas, spray in carbs see if will start. Also compression test.
 
Last edited:
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Location
GA
#3
If there's two-year-old gas in it, get it out. Clean out screw-on filter cup, if it has one.
No sense in pulling old fuel thru the carbs. I'd try starting it with fresh fuel, before going
for the carb rebuild.
 
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9
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0
Water Crafts
1998 seadoo xp limited
2002 seadoo xp limited
#4
look for Mikidymac's carb rebuild guide .Mix oil & gas, spray in carbs see if will start. Also compression test.
What oil should I use? And the compression is at 95 psi on each cylinder and both skis. 1 guy told me that the rotary timing is off
 

FL-Rider

New Member
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Location
central florida
Water Crafts
1998 Sea Doo XP Limited
2000 Kawasaki Ultra 150
#5
Those boats have 951 engines. They don't have rotary valves. They have reed valves. Compression is low, but that could be a weak battery or starter or possibly the test guage. Did you do the compression test with both spark plugs out and the spark plug wires grounded onto their clips on the e-box? It sounds suspect that both cylinders on both skiis would have low compression. Sounds like a fuel or carb issue.
 

FL-Rider

New Member
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Location
central florida
Water Crafts
1998 Sea Doo XP Limited
2000 Kawasaki Ultra 150
#6
I use Quicksilver full synthetic 2 stroke oil from walmart. Ive never had a problem due to oil. I used to use the Sea Doo oil, but that got pricey and I would always run out on the weekend when the dealership was closed.
 
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Water Crafts
1998 seadoo xp limited
2002 seadoo xp limited
#7
Those boats have 951 engines. They don't have rotary valves. They have reed valves. Compression is low, but that could be a weak battery or starter or possibly the test guage. Did you do the compression test with both spark plugs out and the spark plug wires grounded onto their clips on the e-box? It sounds suspect that both cylinders on both skiis would have low compression. Sounds like a fuel or carb issue.
I bought a battery from Walmart so it might be weak. Haven’t check the starter nor clean the carburetor because I couldn’t get the exhaust out I ordered an exhaust wrench. Yes I did the compression test with both of the spark plugs out but did not clip them on to the ebox. How do you do that I’m new to this?
 

FL-Rider

New Member
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Location
central florida
Water Crafts
1998 Sea Doo XP Limited
2000 Kawasaki Ultra 150
#8
The e-box has two metal posts that stick up. The e-box is the plastic box where your spark plug wires originate from. They are for attaching your spark plug boots to when they are not on the spark plug. It grounds them. It wont make the engine crank faster but it will prevent the boot from making an arc that might shock you, ignite gas fumes, or damage the coil.
I get my batteries from walmart too. They are fine.
Maybe try a different compression tester. The big auto parts stores will do tool loaners with a refundable deposit. If you really only have 95 psi, then that's pretty low. It might keep it from starting. Maybe put a little 2 stroke oil into the spark plug holes and crank it over some more. If the skiis have been sitting, there could be some rust on the cylinder walls. The oil could lube it up and make it crank faster.
No need to take off the exhaust pipe if you are trying to remove the carbs. The carbs come out from underneath the pipe. Assuming the air box is off. Remove the return fuel line gently because the plastic nipple can break off (thats the fuel line on top that you can see). The pulse line should come off easy( thats the most forward line). You have to feel for the four allen head bolts (6mm) that hold the carbs. Remove carbs and lay them in the bottom of the hull. Then...Remove the cable nuts on the carb side of the brackets so you don't have to re-adjust your oil pump, throttle, and choke. Take the straps off your oil tank and move it forward a few inches. Unhook the fuel inlet line(thats the one you can't see from the top). The carbs then come right out. You might want to pick up a package of rubber vacuum caps to put over the return nipple and inlet nipple as soon you've removed the lines. That will keep gas from spilling out because you have to turn the carbs sideways and upside down to unhook the cables and to maneuver them out.

Before you do all that though, did you put a little premix down the carb throats to see if it fires? Also, did you verify that it has spark?
 

FL-Rider

New Member
Messages
19
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Location
central florida
Water Crafts
1998 Sea Doo XP Limited
2000 Kawasaki Ultra 150
#9
One more thought. If you do take off the carbs, the mounting bolts have washers on them. Make sure you get the washers with the bolts when you pull out the bolts. You have to feel for them because you won't be able to see them. Feel them with your finger and press them against the bolt as you pull out the bolt. Otherwise they can fall down inside the carbs, inside the intakes, or down in the bottom of the hull.
 
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9
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0
Water Crafts
1998 seadoo xp limited
2002 seadoo xp limited
#10
The e-box has two metal posts that stick up. The e-box is the plastic box where your spark plug wires originate from. They are for attaching your spark plug boots to when they are not on the spark plug. It grounds them. It wont make the engine crank faster but it will prevent the boot from making an arc that might shock you, ignite gas fumes, or damage the coil.
I get my batteries from walmart too. They are fine.
Maybe try a different compression tester. The big auto parts stores will do tool loaners with a refundable deposit. If you really only have 95 psi, then that's pretty low. It might keep it from starting. Maybe put a little 2 stroke oil into the spark plug holes and crank it over some more. If the skiis have been sitting, there could be some rust on the cylinder walls. The oil could lube it up and make it crank faster.
No need to take off the exhaust pipe if you are trying to remove the carbs. The carbs come out from underneath the pipe. Assuming the air box is off. Remove the return fuel line gently because the plastic nipple can break off (thats the fuel line on top that you can see). The pulse line should come off easy( thats the most forward line). You have to feel for the four allen head bolts (6mm) that hold the carbs. Remove carbs and lay them in the bottom of the hull. Then...Remove the cable nuts on the carb side of the brackets so you don't have to re-adjust your oil pump, throttle, and choke. Take the straps off your oil tank and move it forward a few inches. Unhook the fuel inlet line(thats the one you can't see from the top). The carbs then come right out. You might want to pick up a package of rubber vacuum caps to put over the return nipple and inlet nipple as soon you've removed the lines. That will keep gas from spilling out because you have to turn the carbs sideways and upside down to unhook the cables and to maneuver them out.

Before you do all that though, did you put a little premix down the carb throats to see if it fires? Also, did you verify that it has spark?
Premix? And no I didn’t check if there’s spark
 

FL-Rider

New Member
Messages
19
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Location
central florida
Water Crafts
1998 Sea Doo XP Limited
2000 Kawasaki Ultra 150
#11
Pre-mix is gas and oil mixed. You could put a little bit (1/2 a capfull from a water bottle) down each carb. You can buy cans of premix fuel from Home Depot or Lowes in the lawn machine section. 40:1 or 50:1 will work. Or, you can mix gasoline with 2 stroke oil in those ratios.

Here's something else you can do to check to see if its getting fuel. Unhook the return fuel line from the carb. Splice in a short piece of 1/4 ID clear fuel line. See attached pic of mine. Then crank it over to see if there is fuel pumping out of the carb through the line. The clear line I used is polyurethane, but you can use regular clear vinyl tubing from Lowes or Home Depot for testing purposes. I wouldn't leave clear vinyl tubing on for extended periods of time, but I have left it on overnight with no problems. You'll also need a 1/4" brass barbed splice connector from the plumbing dept and a couple clamps. You could probably put that line on in about 5 minutes.

You might want to open your fuel cap and smell the gasoline in the tank. If its turned bad, alot of times you can smell it.
 

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9
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Water Crafts
1998 seadoo xp limited
2002 seadoo xp limited
#12
Pre-mix is gas and oil mixed. You could put a little bit (1/2 a capfull from a water bottle) down each carb. You can buy cans of premix fuel from Home Depot or Lowes in the lawn machine section. 40:1 or 50:1 will work. Or, you can mix gasoline with 2 stroke oil in those ratios.

Here's something else you can do to check to see if its getting fuel. Unhook the return fuel line from the carb. Splice in a short piece of 1/4 ID clear fuel line. See attached pic of mine. Then crank it over to see if there is fuel pumping out of the carb through the line. The clear line I used is polyurethane, but you can use regular clear vinyl tubing from Lowes or Home Depot for testing purposes. I wouldn't leave clear vinyl tubing on for extended periods of time, but I have left it on overnight with no problems. You'll also need a 1/4" brass barbed splice connector from the plumbing dept and a couple clamps. You could probably put that line on in about 5 minutes.

You might want to open your fuel cap and smell the gasoline in the tank. If its turned bad, alot of times you can smell it.
Hey dude I got one running I put the premix in the carb and kept spraying it with carb cleaner and a little throttle and she’s alive !!! I appreciate your help men but I notice that there a vibration with the drive shaft, is that normal and also it would idle for a little bit and then turns off I would have to keep pressing the throttle for it to stay on
 

FL-Rider

New Member
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Location
central florida
Water Crafts
1998 Sea Doo XP Limited
2000 Kawasaki Ultra 150
#13
Thats great that it runs. If it wont stay running, it could be one or more of the other things mentioned. Possibly clogged up carbs, clogged fuel system, air getting into the fuel lines, or old/bad gas. I would probably siphon that old gas out first and splice on that clear line so you can see if its pumping gas and if there are bubbles or not. If that checks out good, then I would take the carbs apart.
The drivelines on these skiis do rattle a little when on the trailer. A little rattle is normal, but it could be a rubber bumper on the end of the driveshaft or the anti-rattle cone that is part of the pump. If its more of a vibration and not a rattle, then it could be something lodged in the pump or a bearing.
 

FL-Rider

New Member
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19
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Location
central florida
Water Crafts
1998 Sea Doo XP Limited
2000 Kawasaki Ultra 150
#14
On the XP's there are also rubber couplers between the engine drive coupler and forward driveshaft, then another one between the forward driveshaft and the rear driveshaft. To check if theyre intact, remove the plastic cover for the engine PTO, and you can see the front red rubber coupler is in place. And then under the rear hatch behind the seat there is a metal cover right behind the shock mount. Loosen the two rearward bolts of the cover but not all the way, then the cover slips out. You can then see the rear coupler.
 
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0
Water Crafts
1998 seadoo xp limited
2002 seadoo xp limited
#15
On the XP's there are also rubber couplers between the engine drive coupler and forward driveshaft, then another one between the forward driveshaft and the rear driveshaft. To check if theyre intact, remove the plastic cover for the engine PTO, and you can see the front red rubber coupler is in place. And then under the rear hatch behind the seat there is a metal cover right behind the shock mount. Loosen the two rearward bolts of the cover but not all the way, then the cover slips out. You can then see the rear coupler.
I did take out the old gas they were really yellow and I put new gas in. So maybe I just need to clean the carburetors and replace the fuel like. Where can I get some new fuel hose?
 
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9
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Water Crafts
1998 seadoo xp limited
2002 seadoo xp limited
#16
I did take out the old gas they were really yellow and I put new gas in. So maybe I just need to clean the carburetors and replace the fuel like. Where can I get some new fuel hose?
I just tried starting it again but this time it didn’t start it sounded weak. Battery could be bad?
 

FL-Rider

New Member
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19
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Location
central florida
Water Crafts
1998 Sea Doo XP Limited
2000 Kawasaki Ultra 150
#17
Could be a low battery if youve been cranking it alot. Charge it up overnight at no more than a 2 amp setting. Make sure to disconnect the battery ground before hooking up the charger. Also, I always disconnect the battery after riding for the day because these sea doos slowly drain the battery even with the lanyard off.
For fuel line, i had regular automotive lines put in about 13 years ago and they held up well. I just recently trimmed the ends of my lines at the fuel strainer connection because the ends were getting a little dry. The trimming cut it back to fresh hose, and theyre still working good.
Your boats probably have had the lines replaced already. If your lines arent gray with the word tempo written on them, then theyve already been replaced. If they are the gray tempo lines, you'll need to replace them.
The supply lines are 8mm or 5/16", and the return line and vent lines are 6mm or 1/4".
 
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Water Crafts
1998 seadoo xp limited
2002 seadoo xp limited
#19
Could be a low battery if youve been cranking it alot. Charge it up overnight at no more than a 2 amp setting. Make sure to disconnect the battery ground before hooking up the charger. Also, I always disconnect the battery after riding for the day because these sea doos slowly drain the battery even with the lanyard off.
For fuel line, i had regular automotive lines put in about 13 years ago and they held up well. I just recently trimmed the ends of my lines at the fuel strainer connection because the ends were getting a little dry. The trimming cut it back to fresh hose, and theyre still working good.
Your boats probably have had the lines replaced already. If your lines arent gray with the word tempo written on them, then theyve already been replaced. If they are the gray tempo lines, you'll need to replace them.
The supply lines are 8mm or 5/16", and the return line and vent lines are 6mm or 1/4".
The fuel line are black, and I just got the 98 ski to run did the same thing I did from the 02 and the 98 sounds strong and much better than the 02 but it idles at 3000 rpm, do I just need to adjust it ?
 

FL-Rider

New Member
Messages
19
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0
Location
central florida
Water Crafts
1998 Sea Doo XP Limited
2000 Kawasaki Ultra 150
#20
3000 on the trailer is right on. Once in the water it should drop to 1500.
If the fuel lines are black, then they have already been replaced.
 

FL-Rider

New Member
Messages
19
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0
Location
central florida
Water Crafts
1998 Sea Doo XP Limited
2000 Kawasaki Ultra 150
#22
Since you say there is a driveline vibration, it might have a bad bearing in the jet pump. Its possible that water got in the pump and rusted the bearings over the 2 yrs it was sitting. That could drag the rpms down. If both couplers are in place then you might have to pull the pump off to check it. Once off, you can spin the impeller by hand to see if its dragging. Of course, the low rpms could still be the fuel system/carbs.
 

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