You would suspect electrical still with a good spark? I’m just at a loss of what to do next.
Seadoo Gtx help
- Thread starter Seadoo35
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From experience and intermittent no start then start issue has always been an electrical issue.
As much as your wiring has been hacked and missing parts I would suggest getting a new harness and box innards from Nick at Westside Power Sports @Minnetonka4me. He will test it before it goes out and guarantee it. It will eliminate all the guessing and you already need it for the plug anyways.
As much as your wiring has been hacked and missing parts I would suggest getting a new harness and box innards from Nick at Westside Power Sports @Minnetonka4me. He will test it before it goes out and guarantee it. It will eliminate all the guessing and you already need it for the plug anyways.
Thank you sir
Before I pull the rotary valve, I noticed the spark plugs have a wet oily mix on them. Previous owner said he had carbs rebuilt is it possible they weren’t adjusted correctly? If so were are the high and lows at? All I see is the idle control and two adjusters (not sure of what they are) above them
The idle only has 1 adjustment ant it's a Tee handle on the front carb.
Each carb has a low and high screw. Low should be 1 turn out from gently seated in. The rear high should be 1/2 turn out and front high should be closed.
I never trust that a new to me ski has good clean carbs no matter what anybody says. They all get new genuine carb kits and new needle and seats before they ever go out.
Each carb has a low and high screw. Low should be 1 turn out from gently seated in. The rear high should be 1/2 turn out and front high should be closed.
I never trust that a new to me ski has good clean carbs no matter what anybody says. They all get new genuine carb kits and new needle and seats before they ever go out.
I found my high screws on each carb but where are the lows? I can’t seem to find them
IDoSeaDoo
Well-Known Member
The lows are a pain to find when they're installed in the ski. They sort of hide behind the throttle lever. If you open the throttle, you may have better luck getting your fingers them.
You say you started it 6 times in a row. Was that after prolonged cranking to get it started the first time? If you pour a bit of fuel down the carb throats, does it fire right up? Do you get black goo dripping out of your exhaust pipe after you crank a while?
Judging by your recent comment about wet plugs, I wonder if your engine is not flooding. It's possible one or both of your carb needles are leaking and creating an overly rich condition. It takes a ton of cranking with the throttle wide open to clear out a flooded engine, and it'll drip black goo out the exhaust. If you pour fuel into the carbs, it'll have no effect.
On the other hand, if pouring fuel makes it fire up and you've experienced back-fires, you have a lean condition and are starving for fuel.
You say you started it 6 times in a row. Was that after prolonged cranking to get it started the first time? If you pour a bit of fuel down the carb throats, does it fire right up? Do you get black goo dripping out of your exhaust pipe after you crank a while?
Judging by your recent comment about wet plugs, I wonder if your engine is not flooding. It's possible one or both of your carb needles are leaking and creating an overly rich condition. It takes a ton of cranking with the throttle wide open to clear out a flooded engine, and it'll drip black goo out the exhaust. If you pour fuel into the carbs, it'll have no effect.
On the other hand, if pouring fuel makes it fire up and you've experienced back-fires, you have a lean condition and are starving for fuel.
Thank you guys so much for the help. I broke down and took the rv cover off. As soon as i took it off the valve came off with the cover. The gear itself is fine no damage no shavings but i did notice the valve and cover has some wear the noticeable rings all the way around. Now to properly get this back to normal what all will i need? I am aware a timing wheel and might as well a new valve, but is a cover necessary? Just line it up and mark it to where its supposed to be place it and put it back together. Is it that simple? Sounds like something im missing
Also i noticed today before i took the cover off it did a small backfire on me very little, but it was enough black goo on my white garage door to be noticed lol, is that what your talking about?
IDoSeaDoo
Well-Known Member
Well, black goo is fuel getting into your exhaust, usually from a rich condition. Backfires are from lean conditions, when the fuel ignites too late in the exhaust, so I'm not sure what to tell you. Better get that goo off your garage door before it stains 
I made a rotary wheel to reassemble the valve. I printed it out, cut it out and pasted it to a thin piece of cardboard (from a 12pack of Heineken I recall). I then cut out a hole in the center large enough to go over the RV gear.
While you have it apart though, go get some solder and test the RV clearance. There is a procedure in the manual on how to do this. This will tell you if your clearance is too large, which can also cause hard starting.
I made a rotary wheel to reassemble the valve. I printed it out, cut it out and pasted it to a thin piece of cardboard (from a 12pack of Heineken I recall). I then cut out a hole in the center large enough to go over the RV gear.
While you have it apart though, go get some solder and test the RV clearance. There is a procedure in the manual on how to do this. This will tell you if your clearance is too large, which can also cause hard starting.
any input? i seen on previous threads you have done this process before
haha if you say so. How do i go about measuring the clearance? i have searched forums and videos I cannot find anything it just says measure with a solder. Cant find any fine detail, i am unsure of what to measure or what it means. Clueless here, im new to this side of the skiWell, they don't make "new" covers, but you can buy a good used one. I would measure your RV clearance first. Look it up in the manual for the correct specs and procedure. You'll need a micrometer.
Heineken box > Coor Light box
IDoSeaDoo
Well-Known Member
I forget exactly, but I think you remove the O-ring, dab a piece of solder in grease so it sticks, and stick it to the RV valve. Then you bolt on the cover and crush the solder. Then you measure what it squished down to. I'm pretty sure this is done with the RV in place, but again, it's been years since I've done this. If you don't have a manual for this engine yet, download it from seadoomanuals.net
Please post pictures of the valve, cover and cases so we can determine if the wear is a problem.
The service manual details how to measure the clearance.
The manual also has the degree wheel you can print out to set the timing.
As for the black goo you have leaking needles and seats. You need a full carb rebuild with new genuine Mikuni kits and needles and seats.
The service manual details how to measure the clearance.
The manual also has the degree wheel you can print out to set the timing.
As for the black goo you have leaking needles and seats. You need a full carb rebuild with new genuine Mikuni kits and needles and seats.
Sadly my phone decided to quit on me, but as soon as i am able to replace it i sure will. I went ahead and ordered a new valve because their not that expensive. The cover has the wear but nothing drastic. What would have made the valve just come off when i pulled the cover? Reasoning behind not starting?
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I forgot to tighten the spark plugs when I was checking for spark. I can see fuel sleeping out the side of them and I have spark why won’t this thing start. Driving me nuts
Earlier when I pulled the plugs there was a bubble in the gap of fuel
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