Seadoo / BRP Hamlin Low Speed Control Sensor Ass'y. 204470631 Throttle Assist

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SeptemberC

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Mine has stopped working and I have spent the last 3 weeks finding a replacement. Seadoo / BRP has discontinued them (of course)

Part number replacement for Seadoo / BRP 204470631 Low Speed Control Sensor Ass'y

Mouser Electronics P/N 93459065-1-S-02-A $4.10 (8.4mm sensitivity) your choice

Mouser Electronics P/N 93459065-1-T-02-A $3.41 (6 mm sensitivity) Your choice


Seadoo / BRP 204470632 (magnets)

Mouser Electronics P/N 934-57065-000 magnets (for above sensor) $2.94

Have a Great Day!

Hamlin sensor.jpg

Sensor 2.JPG
 
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Lumps - I doubt it. I'm betting it was just a coincidence, I'm taking it to a shop in Ironton, Ohio on Tuesday. Malone's Marine. We're taking it to the water to run diagnostics.
The throttle assist parts will be in my hand on Monday. I will be fixing that before I take it on Tuesday.
My gut tells me I have an injector sticking or something.... what ever it is it wasn't diagnosed by being hooked to computer in the shop. But it's running very rich.
 
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There is a guy named BigFish in another new 240 thread that was having a similar problem and his turned out to be the TPS.
 
The computer says the TPS is ok. Dr Honda also said that my Gen 2 engine has an alarm for my TPS. I'll definitely be posting in the other thread the results / solution.
 
TPS was replaced today. NO CHANGE. I'm still running rich. I replaced the low speed control actuator and it DOES not work! Something's gotta be going on electrical. Does anyone know anything about how these reeve switches tie into the computer?
 
More info.... can anyone provide any help?

The low speed control actuator has continuity on both magnets. It also has continuity from the actuator to the engine. I'm attaching a pic of the plug at the engine where the yellow with black stripe that runs from the actuator ends. So I know it's working this far.... WHY would it not bump the rpm's?

I still have a running rich issue too. Sensors have been replaced along with the lift pump diaphragm. Computer scans show no errors or codes.
Come on guys.... I need some wild suggestions and/or out of the box ideas....
26.jpg
 
Did you ever figure out why it wasn’t bumping the rpms while turning at slow speeds? I’m having the same problem and just ordered a new reed switch.
 
I replaced the electronic parts at the helm but it still didn’t work. BUT.... the reason it didn’t work was because I had a missing reed valve. We hydro-locked the engine last summer in June and it broke one of the reed valves off completely. I posted pics in my other thread (One lucky lady) We’ve spent a year trying to figure out why it wasn’t running as well as it should and why the steering assist stopped working. Once we found the broken reed and replaced all of the reeds with Boysean reeds everything is back to like new.
There are two types of throttle assists. One operates by cable and the other operates electronically. Which do you have?
 
I replaced the electronic parts at the helm but it still didn’t work. BUT.... the reason it didn’t work was because I had a missing reed valve. We hydro-locked the engine last summer in June and it broke one of the reed valves off completely. I posted pics in my other thread (One lucky lady) We’ve spent a year trying to figure out why it wasn’t running as well as it should and why the steering assist stopped working. Once we found the broken reed and replaced all of the reeds with Boysean reeds everything is back to like new.
There are two types of throttle assists. One operates by cable and the other operates electronically. Which do you have?

Look at you. Answering questions like a pro. LOL.
 
I have a reed switch with 2 stationary magnets. The reed switch isn’t changing states when it comes in proximity of the magnet, so I’m assuming it’s a bad reed switch. I’m gonna look up your “One Lucky Lady” post to see what other reed switch you’re talking about.
 
I have a reed switch with 2 stationary magnets. The reed switch isn’t changing states when it comes in proximity of the magnet, so I’m assuming it’s a bad reed switch. I’m gonna look up your “One Lucky Lady” post to see what other reed switch you’re talking about.

The replacement switch info is above at the beginning of this post.
The pictures I posted were of my broken Reed Valves
 
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