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seadoo 4 stroke need help big PROBLEM

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brandon32689

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okay i have a seadoo wake that i got this weekend the guy hooked the hose up and tried starting and turned water on befor starting ski so when i got it home this weekend it would not start we tried everything and now my friend is helping me so we took the plugs off and turned pushed start a couple times and got most the water out, then we repeated that a couple times and sprayed lube in the cylinders, i think we got all the water out so put new plugs and turned it on it actually started this time and shot out a bunch of water and we let it ran for about 2 min idling before it would overheat. now we are going to change plugs again and looked at the oil level it looks a lil milky now could it have water in it? can we change the oil orself or do we have to get it done any advice please let us know we are thinking about getiing new plugs and letting it run on the hose for about 10 min to burn out all the water thanks let me know if im doing wong dont want to ruin the machine?
 
I don't have one of the 4Tecs, so I can't advise you on how to do the oil change, but I can tell you you need to do one NOW! Do at least one, then run the ski on the hose or preferably in the water at idle for ten minuets or so, and check the oil for any signs of moisture. You may have to do more than one.

Kustomkarl has a good write up on how to change the oil in this thread. http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?t=19184&highlight=oil+change

Aaron:cheers:
 
I hope you didn't smoke the engine by running the wet oil.

When he ran the hose first... water went up the exhaust, and into the cylinders. As it sat there... it drips past the rings, and into the oil. Since you ran the water into the oil (milky) you may have scored the piston skirts, ripped up the cam journals, cam lobes, valve guides, valve buckets, rod bearings, and all the other moving parts.

OK... for a hopeful side. Drain the oil, and change it. Run the engine for just 40 or 50 seconds, and change it again. Do it at least 3 times, and if you see any traces of water in the oil after that... change it again. Use the cheapest oil you can find to do the "Flushing." Once you are happy with the oil... change it back to the XPS or your favorite synthetic.

I see this all the time on 4 stroke dirt bikes. Guys try to cross deep water, and they kill the engine because they ride on wet oil.

On a 2-stroke... it's annoying to clean the plugs, and to get it to fire... and blow the water out... on a 4-stroke... it could be death.

I truly wish you the best with it.
 
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I hope you didn't smoke the engine by running the wet oil.

When he ran the hose first... water went up the exhaust, and into the cylinders. As it sat there... it drips past the rings, and into the oil. Since you ran the water into the oil (milky) you may have scored the piston skirts, ripped up the cam journals, cam lobes, valve guides, valve buckets, rod bearings, and all the other moving parts.

OK... for a hopeful side. Drain the oil, and change it. Run the engine for just 40 or 50 seconds, and change it again. Do it at least 3 times, and if you see any traces of water in the oil after that... change it again. Use the cheapest oil you can find to do the "Flushing." Once you are happy with the oil... change it back to the XPS or your favorite synthetic.

I see this all the time on 4 stroke dirt bikes. Guys try to cross deep water, and they kill the engine because they ride on wet oil.

On a 2-stroke... it's annoying to clean the plugs, and to get it to fire... and blow the water out... on a 4-stroke... it could be death.

I truly wish you the best with it.

Okay thanks man we let it run for like 1 min tops to get all the water out, but it didn't knock or anything sounded okay and then we checked oil and it was a little milky is changing that hard? Could I just suck it out of the dipstick tube and add new? I'm really hoping it's okay man scared I ruint a 5600 dollar machine sucks do I need to change a filter to or just oil? I was thinking about taking to seadoo shop but it wil take 2 weeks to get in. I hope it's not to much damage know we got all the water out and I spraid alot of lube in the cylinders before starting up
 
Yes... you will need to change the filter. Clean it out in between... and when you finally change back to XPS... put in a clean filter.

Don't take the chance on running it until you purge the wet oil. You can suck it out if you want... but you got to get that water out. If you let a dealer do it... they may not do a good job... and they will charge you a fortune.

One other thing. There will be water vapor. Pop off the cam cover, and you will probably see milky goo. Wipe it out, and put it back on.
 
Yes... you will need to change the filter. Clean it out in between... and when you finally change back to XPS... put in a clean filter.

Don't take the chance on running it until you purge the wet oil. You can suck it out if you want... but you got to get that water out. If you let a dealer do it... they may not do a good job... and they will charge you a fortune.

One other thing. There will be water vapor. Pop off the cam cover, and you will probably see milky goo. Wipe it out, and put it back on.

okay thanks man i really hope it is not screwed up i just bought it friday and this is how the damn guy gave it to me he said ya i did not know how to run it on hose but wanted to fire it up before you got it well he screwed it up is what he did, how do i cange the oil? i have never done before and were is the filter located at? how much oil does it take in those 155hp 4 strokes, i was kinda scared to mess with it since its all new to me ya know i was actually thinking about taking to the seadoo shop and get them to clean it out but i am scared of what they will charge to any more ideas or info on changing the oil and me and my buddy will do it tomorrow what kinda oil can i use in between the changes and were is the filter ect. thanks alot man pray the engine is still okay
 
Yes... you will need to change the filter. Clean it out in between... and when you finally change back to XPS... put in a clean filter.

Don't take the chance on running it until you purge the wet oil. You can suck it out if you want... but you got to get that water out. If you let a dealer do it... they may not do a good job... and they will charge you a fortune.

One other thing. There will be water vapor. Pop off the cam cover, and you will probably see milky goo. Wipe it out, and put it back on.

Talked to my local seadoo mechanic today and he sold mr all the oil filter and new plugs, he said that I need to hook it to hose and run for about a min to warm up engine and then I need to pump all the old oil out and then push throttle all the way down and push start for 5 sec about 3 times it won't start but will bring remainder of oil to pan to get sucked out as well, after that he said take filter off and clean really well and fill back up with oil and filter bk in, take to lake and sit in water and let run for 30 min on trailer with oil cap open, said it will steam after a while because it's burning all the water out of engine, then he said go ahead and repeat the oil change one more time and put new oilfilter this time, I thought about sthe work and said screw it I will get them to do it said it will be 1hr n half labor so about 150 n labor plus oil n filter bout 80 so not big deal but he can't get it in til next week so I hope the water don't corrode or rust anything over a week what u think?? Hope they do it right and good he said he's seen way worse and there should be no major prob at all. Any more input? Anything I should check when it gets bk or call n say to them? Thanks.
 
I do not have a 4stroke but I am thinking you will be speed reading your manual at least frontwards - after you get this going read it both frontwards and backwards.
 
I do not have a 4stroke but I am thinking you will be speed reading your manual at least frontwards - after you get this going read it both frontwards and backwards.

Lol what you mean by that? That I will read it good to keep from screeweing it up or you think there will still be problems after? Shoot the guy I bought it from did this damage he had it for 5 years and never ran on a hose and tried it once before selling lol, ya hopefully shop does a good job and gets it bk to me in about 2 weeks luckily the guy I bought it from is a good guy and knew it was his fault so paying bill
 
Whatever you do....do it asap, I had a similar problem with water in the engine and milky oil...it doesn't get better only worse... As with anything try to fix it yourself, but in the end I didnt end up fixing mine without a couple hundred dollar trip to the mechanic
 
I'm new to the 4 stroke myself, talk about alot of research but there great seadoo's.
I'm in Canada so not sure where you can find this in your area but here's a web site...www.royaldistributing.com
check out the 2010 spring/fall book pg293, you can purchace a 12v oil changer
they go for $24.99 can for the do it yourselfer.
Through the dip stick tube you will get 3 liters out the engine hold close to 5.
Hope this helps.
 
Did you ever find out how the water made it back to the cylinder head to cause this problem? I have one that is doing the same exact thing.

Rick
317-714-7966
 
if get water in the oil you must do the boil out proccess.its in the manual but ill give you a quick run down.first get the water out of the cylinders ,then hook it up to the water hose,clamp off the main cooling line (for the close loop side)start the unit and turn the water on so you do not over heat the exhaust.let it run like this for about 15 min,the manual says to run it at 3500 rpm but idle is fine.be aware that the alarm is going to sound dont let it scare you this will not hurt the motor.then change the oil and filter ,run and check oil .if its still milky repeat the proccess as nesasary.lmk if you have any questions

joe
 
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