RXT 215 super Charger failure

[petey]

I have an 05 RXT 215 with its 2nd super Charger clutch failure.


Its first failure was with it's previous owners (our neighbors) who had the repair done at the dealer. But, off the top of my head I do not know how many hours ago that was done. It now has over 100 but under 150, and we have only put 10 on it.

I am going to do work myself and was given tips from an ex tech from the dealer on how to do this from "quick and dirty and hope it lasts" to 100% by the book. I am just trying to decide how deep I want to get into this.

Right now my plan is to pull the engine and pull the oil pump to clean/ inspect it and replace the oil cooler.

My question:

Can you pull the block's lower half on these engines without pulling the head? I would love to get that off and clean that up but do not really want to get into the heads, bolts, gaskets, timing, etc.

 

[jakempc3000]

You can pull the lowercase off. I would pull the oil filter and peek to see if you find any metal flakes in and under the filter. If you do, break it all the way down and clean it. The head's oil passages and cam area will hold a lot of material.

The head and timing are very simple on 4tec engines. Download a service manual or watch a few youtube videos on all. it's not that bad of a job. The important thing is to make sure you get all the material out and figure out why it keeps failing.

 

[petey]

I believe the previous owners would take it out into the bay and ride the waves with it. If both clutch washers are entirely gone I am assuming they were the first generation all ceramic washers, which tells me the first failure was pre 2007.

I'm just trying to generate a parts list if tore into the whole engine. I'm considering the parts cost. The tech I talked to said to go with Seadoo engine parts only, What are your feelings about SBT? He also said usually what he has seen happen when the clutch pieces get into the engine the oil pump gets chewed up and get get low oil pressure.

Oil Cooler
Supercharger kit
Head bolts
Lower half bolts
Gasket kit
Oil pump if its chewed up

 

[jakempc3000]

I’ve used a lot of SBT parts and OEM.
For the supercharger, OEM tried and true.
That being said we have used a lot of sbt kits with no issues. the friction washers on the sbt kits are smoother = more slip. That can be good and bad.
Not had very good luck with sbt oil pumps.
Head gaskets OEM.
head bolts and case bolts sbt or oem.
Basic gasket kit - either is fine.
As far as the clutch pieces. Don’t bank on it having ceramic washers, even the new kits lose steel washers, gears, and bearings. See a lot more bearing issues on the newer kits. Worn out.
On the oil pumps - most will have signs of wear "small scratches"but if it has pitting and gouges deeper
than a fingernail go ahead and replace it.

If you do have metal flake floating around the engine the head will have to be cleaned also.
= remove the rockers and cam. Not difficult at all.

I would break the engine down before you make the list or order anything, may be far worse than thought or not as bad.

 

[petey]

I already have the SC out and the bearing look fine and are smooth, however both clutch washers are MIA.

Do the steel washers like to go exploring the engine also or do they just wear down?


We also have an 08 RXT with 30hrs on it (we got this one out of the crate) this one has been babied and we do not jump waves/wake with it. Should I be looking at the SC on this one after I get the 05 back up and running.

 

[jakempc3000]

Usually the washers' steel and ceramic fracture in 2-3 pieces but by the time the flywheel, stator and moving components get in contact with the fragments it changes. Sometimes you get lucky and a couple of large chunks are setting in the housing or setting on the front oil pump screen.
supercharger rebuilds every 100 hours or 2 years. the time factor is for roller-bearing retainers that are oil soaked for a while / can loosen.
That being said I've seen SC let go at 50 hours and have seen skis come in with 260+ hours on the original charger and it was running fine.

 

[petey]

Well I started this project and quickly hit the "brick wall". The sleeve on the drive shaft c clip moves the shaft so have to hold the shaft forward.

I have the nozzle off, and the four nuts off the pump but the pump will not break fee. Either I missed something, or the salt water has seized the studs to the pump housing (like stainless carb bolts on aluminum carb housing on the 787s)

Can I take the studs off with the pump? Slide hammer? other ideas