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Resurrecting a 95 SPI

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Actually $60 is a good price if you got the one issued by BRP. One good thing about a paper version is that you can refer to it in the garage or shop w/o a computer next to you.
I got a manual for my 99 off this site then had it printed at Office max

Yeah but $60 is almost a case of beer. OK, well $45 and some jerky.
 
No I paid $60 bux for my EVINRUDE outboard manual. If I have to get into the engine on this doo then I'll get look for something else.... I am able to spin the engine with the grey cover off, that's a plus!
 
Is the filter that needs cleaned the one I have circled?

What about the carb gasket, what number is that?
 

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Thanks, got it. And clean it with a simple green/ purple power and not carb cleaner, correct?

Is #14 gasket reusable?
 
I'm at my wits end trying to get a bolt out. How in the world do you get access to this, I've been at it for a half hour.
 

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I'm at my wits end trying to get a bolt out. How in the world do you get access to this, I've been at it for a half hour.

Once air box is out, you should have enough room to use open wrench or the smaller ratchet drive socket.
 
if this is the bolt that needs to come out then my hands are to big or this was never ment to be removed with the engine in the ski. A real stoopid way of putting things together (end of rant).
 

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Its hard b/c oil pump is the way but its doable.
Did you try the open wrench?
 
Yup, open and closed 13mm 5" long and 6" long 1/2", I thought about a socket but there is no way it's going to fit in that space.

I'm gonna go by the parts store and pick up one of those special wrenches I posted above. I'm 90% sure that will work, if not then I'm ridin' with my dirty filter.
 
The smaller 1/4 drive socket may work to get it started. Then finish by hand.
I've done it before on the 717.
Just use both hands to get it around the oil pump.
 
Update:

I managed to get the bolt removed after acquiring the nifty tool I posted above.

Once the pump cover was removed I had to grind out some some of the cover to have room for the back two carb screws to come out. To my surprise the the filter was clean but the line coming into the carb has some crud around it. Cleaned the filter and the fuel inlets and got it all back together in about a hour.

Drained all the TC-W3 oil from the tank and all the lines. Added 3 gallons of fresh gas with some sta-bil and ethanol treatment for the gallon of the two year old gas.

Put the battery in and double checked everything.

Pressed the start button and nothing happened only a little click, my heart sank....

Pressed the start button again and she started to crank but spit out a bunch of water...

After cranking for 15-20 sec she fired up. I let it run for a few seconds and then shut it off. I then stared it again then shut it off after a few seconds.

I decided to move the ski out of the garage to I could hook it to some water. She fired right up, I then turned on the water. The ski was smoking quite a bit but I figured all that old gas and additives and burning out the old oil I could not get out.

I let the ski run for about 5 minutes, checking for leaks and so on. Other then the water hose leaking a bit in the hull all looks good.

I did notice that the fuel gauge does not work but I read how to fix that in another thread. Sorry for the long story but wanted to say THANK YOU to all the helped and Thanks for a great forum!
 
Yup forum is very helpful and tries to get everyone back on the water.

:grouphug:

You changes the carb lines and cleaned carb right?
Did you check the compression numbers yet?

It will smoke bad at the beginning but once you start it again it should be less.
You left oil injection in?
 
Yes all the grey lines are replaced and I cleaned the carb.

No compression test don't have a gauge because I never needed one.

I scrubbed all the tree sap and crap off the ski and guess what? It's White not Black! LOL

I plan on changing the colors a bit, I HATE the PINK and PURPLE!

I'll run it again once I get the fuel gauge fixed.

Next is to recover the seat and do some final little touches, then once all the ice has melted off the lake take it for a test ride.

I'm using the stock oil injection.

We live on a lake here in MD. I leave the boat in all season (April - November), can I leave the ski in the water as well? Is it bad for the engine to leave it in the water?
 
No never leave ski in water unless real auto bilge with float switch to it keep from draining battery while unattended for long periods
The rule 500 Auto cycles every few secs drawing charge VS true float.

Seadoos are know to sink b/c water leaks through carbon seal.
 
They probably get used enough to not worry about leaks or sinking.

You should consider replacing the two small oil injection lines as well, a pinhole or split due to their age will be the kiss of death for that motor- they have white paint on them and appear original.

How in depth did you clean the carb? Did you remove the internals or just the square covers and clean it out?

Pull the fuel level sender and remove the cap at the bottom of it. Put the float in a pickle jar full of gas and verify the float does in fact- float. If it does then its likely the fusible link on the circuit board.
 
If your house is on the lake find a used float on or build ramp near shore for ski to drive up on.
 
You should consider replacing the two small oil injection lines as well, a pinhole or split due to their age will be the kiss of death for that motor- they have white paint on them and appear original.

How in depth did you clean the carb? Did you remove the internals or just the square covers and clean it out?

Pull the fuel level sender and remove the cap at the bottom of it. Put the float in a pickle jar full of gas and verify the float does in fact- float. If it does then its likely the fusible link on the circuit board.

I'll look into replacing the injection hoses, good point thanks.

I just removed the the square plate on top, cleaned the filter and the inlets with carb cleaner.

I read a few posts about the floats and the fusible link. When I have more time I'll tinker with it more, I just needed to hear it run before I invested anymore time and money into this.

Now I have carbs to rebuild on the boat's outboard before the she goes in the water in the next week or so.
 
If your house is on the lake find a used float on or build ramp near shore for ski to drive up on.


I'll have to see what is the regulation is, some docks can't be added to. I'm not gonna spend $500 for a ski dock, I'll build one out of 2 X 10's with some carpet if they let me.
 
I'll look into replacing the injection hoses, good point thanks.

I just removed the the square plate on top, cleaned the filter and the inlets with carb cleaner.

I read a few posts about the floats and the fusible link. When I have more time I'll tinker with it more, I just needed to hear it run before I invested anymore time and money into this.

Now I have carbs to rebuild on the boat's outboard before the she goes in the water in the next week or so.

Ok I'd say you are in good shape! Dont forget to fog the motor if you are not using the ski in the next 48 hours after running it. Fogging it will keep the internals happy and result in longer life for the motor.
 
I'll have to see what is the regulation is, some docks can't be added to. I'm not gonna spend $500 for a ski dock, I'll build one out of 2 X 10's with some carpet if they let me.

Something like this


jet-ski-lift-collapsible-rail-system-26951-324535_zps07df8ee8.jpg
 
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