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Replaced everything still no start Help!! 96 GTX

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RonDiesel

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O.K I have received alot of help here and I have taken everyones suggestions despite the generous help I am ready to push it out to the curb. Its a 96 GTX repairs as folows:
All new fuel lines, new fuel selector valve, added inline fuel filter, remove fuel tank and cleaned, fresh fuel & oil, Brand new coil, new plug wires, new spark plugs,new buzzer,carbs rebuilt, New battery, Checked compression is good both cylinders, Clean RAVE valves, pulled front cover check pickup/bracket looked fine. has spark but not like I would expect but I am compairing to a cars ignition so not sure. It just cranks until it hydraulics and you have to pull the plugs blow out the cylinders and then it cranks fine. plugs are soaked so I am still thinking ignition unless its more oil then fuel on the plugs. Any suggestions???
 
RonDiesel said:
O.K I have received alot of help here and I have taken everyones suggestions despite the generous help I am ready to push it out to the curb. Its a 96 GTX repairs as folows:
All new fuel lines, new fuel selector valve, added inline fuel filter, remove fuel tank and cleaned, fresh fuel & oil, Brand new coil, new plug wires, new spark plugs,new buzzer,carbs rebuilt, New battery, Checked compression is good both cylinders, Clean RAVE valves, pulled front cover check pickup/bracket looked fine. has spark but not like I would expect but I am compairing to a cars ignition so not sure. It just cranks until it hydraulics and you have to pull the plugs blow out the cylinders and then it cranks fine. plugs are soaked so I am still thinking ignition unless its more oil then fuel on the plugs. Any suggestions???
Click to expand...

definetely too much gas....check the low side needle settings on the carbs. should be set to 1 turn out after full seating
 
Yup... way too much fuel. You should be able to crank it until the battery (or starter) dies.

The spark on a SeaDoo isn't very bright... but it should be there.

I would make sure the engine is clear, leave the fuel off, and give it a shot of starter fluid. I don't normally recommend it, but you should have enough oil in the lower half from the starting attempts. If it won't fire on starter fluid... there is something mechanically wrong.



One thought, have you verified that the rotary valve is spinning?
 
Yes, I saw the valves working when I had tha carbs offs. It seems to be doing the same thing as it did before any of the work was The ski was running and it starting bogging out and then died. It was low on fuel and the bottom of the tank was dirty/sand. Thats why I replaced all the fuel lines, carbs,valve, etc and removed and cleaned the tank. I work on big trucks and heavy equipment but this little thing is kicking my butt.
 
The previous owner bypassed the fuel selector valve and the lines as marked on the fuel tank, vent,return,res,on. I ran these as marked could I have screwed these up causing too much fuel?
 
Sticky needle valve in the carb maybe, I had one hang open on my 94GTX and had a hydrolock condition.. I hate taking a shower in a gas oil mix!!!!!
 
I wouldn't think so since carbs are fresh but anything is possible. I will try to fire it on spray tomorrow. If I can at least get a reaction from it I know I am on the right track. It has to be be some simple or stupid because everything else checks out.
 
The thing that is bothering me the most is it is doing the exact same thing it was doing before I did anything too it. Maybe it just seems like the same symptons but I doubt it. There has to be something I am missing. Its a jetski not a Ferrari it shouldn't be this complicated.

Has compression, has spark & has air/fuel ...it should start but it cranks without the slighest burp.:mad:
 
pull the plugs, ground the plug wires, and getta rag, put over plug holes. If oil is present, your hydrolocking because of bad inner seals.
 
Yup... seadooya could be right. I didn't even think about that. The center crank, or rotary valve seals could be bad, and it's pouring oil into the engine.


Clear the engine out by cranking it with the plugs out, and mark the oil tank. To hydro lock with oil... the level will drop a noticeable amount.


As far as... "I just went thought the carbs"... see my thread on "Even the Pro's mess up."


http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?t=33643



If it's fuel... then I would make sure the needle and seat are good, that all the seals are good, and that the diaphragm isn't holding the N/S open. (that's a problem with import rebuild kits)
 
did you mess with the needle/idle settings at all when you cleaned the carbs? I had the same problem....gas puking out the cylinders...I cleaned the needles and didn't set them up right. they were set up too rich. I would pull the carbs again and check everything. sticking needles or the wrong setting will flood the engine. low needles should be set to 1 or 1-1/4 counterclockwise after full seat.
 
Thanks for everyone's advice. Here is an update. I tried to fire it on spray and it fired right up. It looked like a crop duster for about a minute and then it ran smooth with a very nice idle. However it didn't clear out totally and was still smoking pretty good. I tried restarting and it fired right back up and came to a smooth idle. I only ran it for about 3 minutes total at one time and probably no more than 5 minutes all together mostly do to my homeowners association. I also heard a strange rattling from the jet pump I never heard before.

So if the inner seals are bad should I just pull the motor and plan to rebuild it?
I already have about a grand into it and the hull is in nice shape but I am not sure if its worth putting anymore time and money into it. Thoughts?:bigear:
 
If you leak-down tested the carbs after reassembly, you would not have gas in the
lower case. Yes, it could be oil, but that will burn off after you follow the above advice on starting a fuel or oil soaked intake system. Be careful on the new driveway, it may putter crap out the exhaust. Bill

Most older Doo's crank seals leak alittle. If it still smokes 5 minutes after rideing,
concider a soon rebuild. If not, pincher the oil lines when storing.
 
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