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reed valves stuck again

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mattfinish

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my 2001 seadoo rfi (787) has the reed valves stuck apparently ......the first time it happened i took it to the shop and paid the mechanic $200 to fix what he said were seized or stuck reed valves,, anyhow he fixed it and it was going excellent for a couple of rides and today its done the excact same thing .. its starts fine idles fine even revs o.k out of the water but once i put it in the water its like the handbrakes on and it wont rev..it doesnt coff and fart it just wont rev.. my question is can anyone provide a link or tutorial for this sticky reed valve problem .. any help would be greatly appreciated thanks matt..:cheers::cheers:
 
Since your ski doesn't have reed valves, it uses a rotary valve, we're assuming you mean rave valves, here's a how to clean them yourself. Instead of a wire brush I use Easy Off oven cleaner and a green 3M scrubbie, you may get by with using the old base gasket but I would highly recommend a new "O" ring each time you service the rave valves. I would recommend cleaning them at least once a year.

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?37588-How-to-service-Rave-Valve-Pictorial

Lou

Added: Also be sure to use full synthetic API-TC rated injector oil, the rave valves will stay cleaner longer.
 

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yeh i think so lol, all of my 2 stroke experience is from bikes and they have reed valves , i thought the mechanic that fixed it said reed valves but he must have said rave valves .. i just found a perfect tutorial from Rampage " How to service Rave Valve---Pictorial--"11-24-10 08:25....http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?37588-How-to-service-Rave-Valve-Pictorial...i will try this and see if it fixes it . this forum seems very helpfull already any further tips that may be of use are more than welcome thanks matt..
 
"he fixed it and it was going excellent for a couple of rides and today its done the excact same thing .. once i put it in the water its like the handbrakes on and it wont rev..it doesnt coff and fart it just wont rev..

I'm thinking it's something other than just the RAVE exhaust power valves b/c if they were just cleaned they will normally take more than a couple of rides to get gummed up. Recleaning the RAVES is a good place to start the troubleshooting process but then next the compression should be checked and from there fuel pressure.

You'll need to tell us a few things about the history of your ski, such as if the fuel system has been through a major service yet. Those fuel filters will need changing by now, and the fuel pump may need replacing. Could be your charging system isn't working properly, so you need to measure the battery voltage while running on the trailer for a few seconds, or in the water on the trailer if possible.

When was the pump stator bearing oil last checked/changed?

We can get you going again, just need more troubleshooting info if cleaning the RAVES again doesn't do it for ya'

Could be, the RAVES have never been cleaned and if so, you might have to clean them a few times before they begin to work smoothly but usually a RAVE problem will just limit your top speed by up to about 1000RPM.... So a RAVE issue is not really consistent with your problem description.

I'm pretty sure the other guys here are thinking along the same lines, I don't mind being proved wrong and I don't own an 787 RV motor so the other guys here can probably provide better steering than I can.....
 
thanks ,i have a lot to learn .i have only had the ski for three weeks so i have no real history for it..
 
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What is pump stator bearing oil? I've owned SeaDoo's and done my own work for several years and I've never heard of it.

Lou
 
What is pump stator bearing oil? I've owned SeaDoo's and done my own work for several years and I've never heard of it.

Lou

Then you'll need to change yours. You will need to remove the rear nozzle and three screws that retain the bearing hub cone, let me know if you need the procedure.
 
OK, we know that as the pump bearing oil......where does "Stator" come into play?

Doesn't your pump have a stator? The bearing and oil are center of the stator, the oil (gear lube) lubricates the impeller shaft bearings.

Also, impeller cavitation and ventilation are two separate phenomenon. The later is usually due to an air leak of some sort.

We're talking about the jet pump propulsion device on the rear of the ski here guys, in case that's not clear. Rereading the posts above it wasn't clear.
 
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Is it also called the pump stator bearing oil?

Yeah, some people call it that. I think this description actually derives from the merc sportjet pump oil procedure b/c there are two separate oil reservoirs and they have to differentiate between them. So throwing the word "stator" in there helps to clarify which reservoir is under examination.

In this example, the use of the word "stator" only served to create confusion for some reason, not sure why that is......???
 
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I change my pump oil annually, with Mobile 1, synthetic 75w90 oil, stator oil is a new one on me, but I think it's the same as knuter valve oil, or maybe blinker fluid.

Lou
 
I change my pump oil annually, with Mobile 1, synthetic 75w90 oil, stator oil is a new one on me, but I think it's the same as knuter valve oil, or maybe blinker fluid.

Lou

I guess you mean jet pump stator oil.

I use a product specifically designed for marine environments, Mercury High Performance Gear Lube. I think Honda or Yamaha specify this one too, can't recall which one right now. Seadoo specifies a GL-5 Lube. Volvo has another lube they specify for the new duo-prop

I bet there are two bearings driven into your stator housing, same as mine, I wouldn't call it an knuter bearing but whatever you say b/c you're the expert, LOL!. Oh wait, I bet yours were pressed in so maybe it's not the same, LOL! I'm just glad I don't go through my life angry at everyone who lives south of the Canadian border.
 
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Almost NO one calls it the stator housing...thats the mag/electrical.

Pump housing. Pump bearings. Plain and simple.

I personally use Amsoil Marine gear lube.
 
I guess you mean jet pump stator oil.

I use a product specifically designed for marine environments, Mercury High Performance Gear Lube. I think Honda or Yamaha specify this one too, can't recall which one right now. Seadoo specifies a GL-5 Lube. Volvo has another lube they specify for the new duo-prop

I bet there are two bearings driven into your stator housing, same as mine, I wouldn't call it an knuter bearing but whatever you say b/c you're the expert, LOL!. Oh wait, I bet yours were pressed in so maybe it's not the same, LOL! I'm just glad I don't go through my life angry at everyone who lives south of the Canadian border.

You need to chill out here.
 
This doesn't help, it's still off the subject of the thread, if you have any comment appropriate to the thread please make them, if not please don't post.

Lou
 
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Since your ski doesn't have reed valves, it uses a rotary valve, we're assuming you mean rave valves, here's a how to clean them yourself. Instead of a wire brush I use Easy Off oven cleaner and a green 3M scrubbie, you may get by with using the old base gasket but I would highly recommend a new "O" ring each time you service the rave valves. I would recommend cleaning them at least once a year.

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?37588-How-to-service-Rave-Valve-Pictorial

Lou

Added: Also be sure to use full synthetic API-TC rated injector oil, the rave valves will stay cleaner longer.

easy off ? dam, I knew there had to be something simple to help clean those raves.... after I hear that suggestion it seems so obvious too... ty
 
Yep, a trick I learned from Big Jake. Heat them up first, if your wife's not home in the oven or the bbq grill. About 200-250 degrees. Oh and use rubber gloves, that stuff if pretty caustic.

Lou
 
Thanks for the tip! It wouldn't be the first time the wife walk in and be in shock, engine parts in the kitchen, using her hair dryer on plastics, etc.. Haha
 
The real question is are the Raves really that sticky and dirty so quick? I dont think using the wrong oil would be that fast if the other guy really cleaned things well.

Let us know what you find when you disassemble. The mag side one can be disassembled on the motor to get all the parts out w/o removing the manifold.
 
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