Rectifier/regulator

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H

Hunterb

Member
Hi all,

It's been a while since I've posted on here, mostly because my GTX has been running great. I have a problem now though. I have the 'low 12 volts' warning. It is a new battery. I tested the stator and it seems to be good. What I'm wondering is off there is a way to test the rectifier? When running currently the system is not charging, showing about no difference from not running to running. From researching on here I think that the usual failure of the rectifier results in high voltage to the battery. However, the rectifier must also be the 'regulator' as well. I'm wondering if the regulator function of the rectifier can fail and if there is a way there is a way to test that before I start throwing parts at it.
Thanks in advance if you have any suggestions.
Bruxe
 
I think there are tests for the rectifier in the shop manual but I believe the main test is to measure the voltage output at a higher rpm (4000-5000). It should be about 13 5 - 14 volts. If much higher or lower it is a problem. If you are not getting a higher voltage as you said then your battery is not charging and is probably causing low voltage indication.
 
Thanks for the reply. I have tried it again, in the water this time, and I'm still getting a 'low 12 volt' warning and it is not charging. I will try to find a rectifier to see if that's the problem. I think they are rectifier/regulator in one and I know in the automotive world regulators can fail and cause the battery to not charge but everything I read on here talked about 'overcharging' if the rectifier failed. I will find one and switch it out. Much easier than the stator.
Bruce
 
The regulator/rectifier is one part. It sounds like yours does not put out 13.5-14V at higher rpms. If you charge the battery with an external charger you will probably not see the 12V low warning until you wear down the battery again. Make sure you fully disconnect your battery from the ski before using an external charger or you could damage the MPEM.
 
Thanks again. I changed the rectifier and ran it briefly on the trailer, I don't have a hose set up to run it other than very briefly. The voltmeter shows 12.4 not running and 12.2 running. Not what I was hoping to see. I can put it back in the water and see what it does at higher RPM but at idle it's doing nothing.
 
One last question. I am trying to test the stator. I am at my summer place and do not have the manual. I can unplug the wires from the stator where they plug into the rectifier and easily probe them that way. I THINK what I should be seeing is continuity between the yellow wires (there are 3 of them) and an open circuit (infinite resistance) from any yellow wire and ground. Is that correct? The red wire, which I believe is the charging wire, I'm not sure how to check. I would guess that it should show continuity to ground but I'm not positive and I don't know if there is any test between the red and yellow wires that can be done.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
 
So here is an update. I tested the yellow wires to ground with the multimeter set to ohms. I got 6.9, 6.8 and 7.0. I'm not sure if 1) that is the correct test and 2) if it is the correct test if those are good or bad numbers. The red shows battery voltage.
Any electrical gurus out there willing to provide a little advice?


Bruce
 
Running the ski on a hose on a trailer for an extended period is not good because the carbon seal and steel hat on the drive shaft are not cooled by water and will get very hot quickly. You can start the ski cold and run it for 10-15 seconds without a hose and rev it up to 5500 rpm in that 10-15 seconds and see if the voltage at the battery rises to 14.5-14.8 volts, Clip your voltmeter to the battery before you start it and rev it for the 10-15 second period. Report back the result of that test.

The resistance tests you are running is done by disconnecting the 6 pin connector on the front stator cover on the engine and probing the pins on the stator cover. You should see a fraction of an ohm (basically short circuit) between any 2 pins where the yellow wires connect to. You should also read an open circuit between any pin where a yellow wire connects and engine ground.
 
OK. Thanks for that. I think I will stick it in the water but leave it on trailer so I can run it up and see what voltage I get at the battery. The tests for continuity among the 3 yellow wires (no resistance) and yellow wires to ground (open) seem to check out.
I should mention that the ski runs great, starts normally, revs to 6800 (as high as it ever gets). If the stator was shot would it not affect the other electrical parts, like the spark?
 
There is another small pickup coil mounted in the stator area that drives the spark timing. It can be measured at that same stator connector and would measure continuity like the yellow wires. It would be the 2 wires left, not the black wire. Sometimes the bracket that holds it corroded and the coil falls off and the ski won't run. But since yours starts and runs that pickup coil is obviously OK. I think the stator coils only affect charging. You should download a free 97 shop manual which will describe function and testing in detail. There will also be a full schematic of your model.
 
So I hooked everything back up and ran it in the.water. I am basically getting battery voltage.(12.45) all the time; no charging happening. I was able to do a partial dynamic test across 2 of the yellow wires and it read 21 ACV. I wasn't able to test all the phases because I forgot some tools and it got dark. I'm not sure what the ACV should be at idle. I know a manual would be great,.and I have one in CD format but it is not here unfortunately.

Bruce
 
the dynamic test in the manual uses a seadoo test box that you might not even find at a dealer anymore. You replaced the rectifier, what did you use? I have seen on the forum that people said using aftermarket rectifiers there have been failures right out of the box. I do not think you can buy a new OEM rectifier anymore. I have never had to replace one so maybe someone that has can make a recommendation on where to get ones that are of good quality. Also, I would think that you checked the 15A fuse on the MPEM that protects from to much current from the rectifier.
 
Hi again,
Thanks for the responses. I have determined, with the help of an electrician friend, that it is the stator that is the problem. So I am in the market for a new stator. Does anyone have any recommendations for where to get one? There seem to be lots available and they range in price a lot. Is this a typical 'you get what you pay for' situation?
 
Well I got the stator out, which is quite a hassle with the motor in the seadoo. I am now in the market for a new one but everything I can find does not come with the pickup coil (at least I think that's what it's called, it's the other part that forms part of the 6 pin plug). If I get just the stator is it possible to pull the wires from the coil out of the old plug and get them into the new plug? It doesn't look like they're meant to do that. Or, can I buy the complete new unit somewhere? Any help would be appreciated.

Bruce
 
If you look on ebay for a 1997 Seadoo GTX stator there are listings for some complete with pickup coils. West Side Powersports has also been recommended on the forum as a place for help with parts.

The parts catalog for your model shows exploded views of various connectors so they can be assembled/disassembled (pg. 34 of Electrical System). I have never had to take one apart but I'm sure others have done it and can advise on it. You could also splice or solder the new stator wires to the old connector's wires and shrink wrap the connections but I would take a close look at the front and back of the 6 pin connector on the stator cover to see if there is some locking mechanism for the pins that can be removed.
 
artr said:
If you look on ebay for a 1997 Seadoo GTX stator there are listings for some complete with pickup coils. West Side Powersports has also been recommended on the forum as a place for help with parts.

The parts catalog for your model shows exploded views of various connectors so they can be assembled/disassembled (pg. 34 of Electrical System). I have never had to take one apart but I'm sure others have done it and can advise on it. You could also splice or solder the new stator wires to the old connector's wires and shrink wrap the connections but I would take a close look at the front and back of the 6 pin connector on the stator cover to see if there is some locking mechanism for the pins that can be removed.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info! I have found some that have the pick up coil included. I took the old stator off the cover today but I don't see a way of getting the large plastic grommet that goes in the housing off the wires? There is no way to get the plug to pass through it and none of the stators I see for sale include the grommet. Am I missing something?
 
Upon further checking I found one that has the pick up coil and the grommet included. It's made by AHL. Reviews on line appear to be mixed.
 
Hunterb said:
Hi all,

It's been a while since I've posted on here, mostly because my GTX has been running great. I have a problem now though. I have the 'low 12 volts' warning. It is a new battery. I tested the stator and it seems to be good. What I'm wondering is off there is a way to test the rectifier? When running currently the system is not charging, showing about no difference from not running to running. From researching on here I think that the usual failure of the rectifier results in high voltage to the battery. However, the rectifier must also be the 'regulator' as well. I'm wondering if the regulator function of the rectifier can fail and if there is a way there is a way to test that before I start throwing parts at it.
Thanks in advance if you have any suggestions.
Bruxe
Click to expand...
Overcharging a cheap battery will cause more problems than you’ll ever have with a ski, they need at least 20MPA because these electric fuel pumps draw a lot, I went with AGM this time and resolved lots of issues
 
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