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Quicksilver PWC non synthetic vs Sea Doo XPS Synthetic, cost and smoke????

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Luv2Camp

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So when I bought my ski, it smoked and the owner was using the incorrect oil in it. I drained the tank and flushed the entire system and switched to XPS II synthetic. Well after a full gallon of this oil through the system this season so far, the engine is still smoking. Obvious I either have a bad rv or engine seal. So my question is about switching to the Quicksilver to save some cash. The cheapest I can find the XPS oil is about $130 for 3 gallons delivered and the Quicksilver PWC would run me about $90 for 3 gallons. My questions are:

Would there be that much more smoke using a non synthetic oil and is there a reason why it would be better for me to stay with the XPS? Also, I think I know the answer but hate to need to flush the system AGAIN! Should I worry about mixing the two? If so, I may just wait until the start of next season as I will replace the oil filter again and have to bleed anyway.

THANKS in advance for any feedback!
 
It's a two stroke ski, that means that the ski burns the oil so it will smoke, if you don't see smoke you have a problem, as far as quicksilver vs xps, there are a thousand threads on here about the differences which are minimal at most. Search button is your friend :)
 
Personally I use Quicksilver API-TC synthetic blend, in my 96GTI, which is a 717 non-rave valve, it works great, I changed the oil filter last fall and cut it open, it was like new. Since you don't have rave valves there is no advantage to use full synthetic.

However I do use XPS full synthetic in my ski's with rave valves.

Lou
 
my 95 gtx doesn't leak through the RV seal and it smokes like a mofo. enough that after about 3 hours of running 4th of july weekend it has staining above the waterline on the back of the hull. clears up above idle so i'm not worried. I'm using xps2 full synthetic in both skis, the other one doesn't smoke so much.
 
are your oil pumps set (aligned) correctly, ????? just line it up on the 2 lines, some people say to go richer, but, if its not on the line, its not set correctly, if you set it rich, thats at idle, and will smoke more, but isnt working correctly .....

or, are you guys premixing ????
 
are your oil pumps set (aligned) correctly, ????? just line it up on the 2 lines, some people say to go richer, but, if its not on the line, its not set correctly, if you set it rich, thats at idle, and will smoke more, but isnt working correctly .....

or, are you guys premixing ????

My alignment is on and I do not premix. I wish the alignment was off as that would be an easy fix for the smoke!!!!
 
well, they are supposed to smoke, and you didnt mention anywhere that it is fouling out spark plugs, so, if it was me, i would worry if it didnt smoke, and run it !!!!! also, i would stay with the synthetic, if you change out brands, replace filter and drain it all, cause some oils dont really mix, and they sorta get funky and jell up, then you have a problem
 
you could be leaking oil into the motor from a bad seal?

Does it ever stop smoking? Esp after you run it for a bit, but then starts to smoke again after letting it sit for awhile?
 
Manual recommends sea-doo mineral blend oil for 717/787 carb engines and full synthetic for 951 and 787 rfi engines. You should be fine running the quicksilver semi-synthetic; I run the semi-synthetic in my 787 and full synthetic in my 951 DI.
 
The plugs do get oil fouled but the ski runs great. Has some minor roughness at low rpm but runs great 1/2 to WOT. 140 compression on PTO and MAG side. Smokes quite a bit when first started and do not notice any smoke under throttle but will see some smoke and smell the oil when idling. I am wondering if I switch to the Quicksilver PWC non synthetic if this will cause it to smoke more than using the full synthetic.
 
Manual recommends sea-doo mineral blend oil for 717/787 carb engines and full synthetic for 951 and 787 rfi engines. You should be fine running the quicksilver semi-synthetic; I run the semi-synthetic in my 787 and full synthetic in my 951 DI.

I thought the 787 & 951 with Raves should run full synthetic oil.
 
One way to judge if there's a metering problem in the oiling system is to track oil usage, should average out to more than 40:1 I would guess.

I get a black stain on my transom near the exhaust while running across the lake, probably a 15 minute ride, and it doesn't hardly smoke at idle though, which I wouldn't mind seeing a bit more smoke but the pump is set as per the factory adjustment. I may adjust it a little tighter soon so I can at least see SOME smoke but so far so good. Cold starts are smokey, that's prolly only b/c I give her a couple of shots in the carbs before removing it from the water. XPS synthetic, bought a ton of it cause I plan on using my boat.

Doesn't foul the NGK BR8's, not yet anyway.
 
If it's smoking a lot could it be his oil injection system has failed? They fail wide open on sea doos don't they, so he would burn lots of oil?
 
Have not counted how many gallons of gas I have used but do know that in 12 hours of engine time I have burned just over a gallon of oil
 
I ran 2.5 tanks of fuel through my 951 XP and the oil tank is well over 80% full. It seems to use not much oil, while, still adjusted properly, my GSX uses more and smokes more. Same engine!

My buddy's RPX blew a super charger, and he had about a billion pieces of the ski in his garage. I was looking at a RXPX 260. Now I think not. I'll stick with the super easy, sturdy oil burner.

Ohh, and I only run XPS-II. there are more oil threads here than you can shake a stick at? Beat with something?

Anyway, so far this season, I've burned over 10 gallons. Never had an oil issue, never plan to, to save $40. That's 1 tank of gas.
 
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Yup squirrel is right, on my 97 787 XP I went through two tanks since Monday, burnt hardly any oil. I used to think that premix was the way to go, not anymore...I never get any oil residue on my hull either and I'm running XPS2
 
"They fail wide open on sea doos don't they"

Yes, if the cable breaks the pump lever spring opens the pump valve completely. It might not happen that way if the spring breaks though, instead of the cable.
 
"They fail wide open on sea doos don't they"

Yes, if the cable breaks the pump lever spring opens the pump valve completely. It might not happen that way if the spring breaks though, instead of the cable.

Yes, or if the cable breaks at the carb end and frays on a 787 or 951, which use sheathed cables for the oil pump. The spring won't be enough to pull the frayed cable through and open the valve, and you'll cook it at high rooms.
 
Yes, or if the cable breaks at the carb end and frays on a 787 or 951, which use sheathed cables for the oil pump. The spring won't be enough to pull the frayed cable through and open the valve, and you'll cook it at high rooms.

Quite right. These possibilities lead full-circle back to why it's important to perform regular maintenance and pre-checks, and excessive oil consumption can also occur on rotary valve motors for the reasons Seadoobuddy suggested above.

So if an overconsumption issue is suspected, looking for oil leaks and tracking consumption vs fuel consumption are a couple of methods to help determine if a problem does exist. A lose oil line or cracked oil tank seam could potentially leak your expensive oil into the bilge, create an environmental hazard, and result in stiff fines.

Like anything else, the oil system should be watched closely for problems that may develop and these concerns expressed in this thread are quite valid.
 
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