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question about water getting inside- newbi

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bdepew

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I am new so I am sorry for the newbie questions.

1. I bought a 1994 Sea-Doo SPX...is it 2 stroke or 4?

2. The guy i bought it from said it was taking in water where the housing mounts to the hull, I was going to replace the wear ring, carbon ring and possibly check bearings and everything else while in there. Is there a good way to check for leaks while NOT in the water? Also, where do I hook up the hose on this beast?

thanks for any info and look forward to being a member of this fine forum.

thanks,

Brian
 
i've heard people say that one way to check for leaks and to find where water comes IN, is to fill up the ski and see where water comes OUT, but i've never done that so YMMV. the carbon ring should have a silver/chrome colored sleeve with a flange pressed up against it, this is where the seal is made, and it is normal for a very small amount of water to be let in through this seal. if the chrome sleeve's flange is not pressed up against the carbon ring, then this is likely where the water is coming in at. Seadoo at one time used an o-ring to hold the sleeve down on the carbon ring, but it is prone to deteriorating and then the seal is no longer a seal, its a hole in the boat. the o-ring has been superceeded by a metal circlip that holds things together. the only other place i think would be between the ride plate and the hull, but that would take some doing to come apart and leak i would think, but not inconceivable.



Edit: to answer your first question: it is a 2-stroke (718cc i believe).
 
2 stroke I thought you had to mix gas and oil? My ski has a place to put oil and gas or does it mix it itself?
thanks for the info.

Also when you say fill up the ski...you mean below the engine right? Obviously you wouldn't fill it all the way up?
 
it mixes the oil for you. you have to keep the tank filled. it injects it at a variable rate.
 
Yes BELOW the engine...people say about 5 gallons or so.
Some people say that you can also clean the inside the hull this way. Add 5G of warm water and some purplepower or Castrol super clean and drive around a bit while on the trailer.

Best way is in the water tho.
 
Think i found the leak problem!

Strizzo said:
i've heard people say that one way to check for leaks and to find where water comes IN, is to fill up the ski and see where water comes OUT, but i've never done that so YMMV. the carbon ring should have a silver/chrome colored sleeve with a flange pressed up against it, this is where the seal is made, and it is normal for a very small amount of water to be let in through this seal. if the chrome sleeve's flange is not pressed up against the carbon ring, then this is likely where the water is coming in at. Seadoo at one time used an o-ring to hold the sleeve down on the carbon ring, but it is prone to deteriorating and then the seal is no longer a seal, its a hole in the boat. the o-ring has been superceeded by a metal circlip that holds things together. the only other place i think would be between the ride plate and the hull, but that would take some doing to come apart and leak i would think, but not inconceivable.



Edit: to answer your first question: it is a 2-stroke (718cc i believe).
Click to expand...

I think I found out where the water is coming in.

see this!

water-problem.jpeg

Also I am assuming this (the green hose) is the adaptyer for a garden hose, Do I just use this to start it when out of water?

water-host-adapter.jpeg


thanks for all the help!
 
Yup...thats definitely where it is leaking at. This is a common problem on these seadoos for owners who didnt grease them regularly. Just get a new one and youll be good to go!:thumbsup:
 
thanks for the help guys!

so that other pic with the hose adapter, is all that is for is starting the ski out of the water?
 
Looks like your hull insert is gone and if the bearing carrier is locked your going to have too replace it ! Download the manual for this ski and read it entirely so you get a better understanding of your machine!
 
:agree: Mostly, except I'm not sure about part no. 14 the hull insert. However it's very important that you don't run this ski, even on the hose until you get this fixed. You could lock up the drive shaft and rip a hole in your ski.

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche... Sea Doo PWC SPX PROPULSION SYSTEM - INTERNAL

As stated before these are very reliable as long as you keep them greased, a lack of maintenance is what caused this to happen.

Lou
 
Thanks for the response, I def wont run it till i get it fixed, I started taking it apart today...is there a trick to get the impeller housing cover off?
 
btw when u run the jetski out of the water make sure u turn the engine on first and then the water and in the reverse order when shutting it off. you dont want to force water into your engine you want the engine to pull it. try to simulate the jetski being in the water (the engine pulls the water up) rather than the water flowing into the engine
 
Hey; before you buy the old version of the drive shaft seal; why not look at switching it to the maintenance free and better carbon right setup? it might cost a bit more up front, but the carbon ring is the way to go!

mid 1998 they switched to using this cool stainless 'ring' and a big 'o' ring made of black carbon. You don't lube it, it spins at engine RPM, and doesn't let any water in the ski. It's a much better design.
http://osdparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_free_shipping_info&cPath=2&products_id=4
and
http://osdparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=230

but, if someone else could verify... I'm not 100% sure you don't need a new drive shaft. I actually have one from a '96XP that had a carbon ring setup, if it's the same. (for sale). I think I have that black rubber boot thing too for $5 if you need vs $16 new.

Also, if you have grey fuel lines (they may say 'tempo' on them) they were made before ethanol was raping our engines... replace them with new black fuel lines from an auto store, or if you really want, a boat store (so they are USCG approved).

(the ethanol eats them, turning them into green goo that will destroy your engine)

While your ordering parts... order a new fuel filter and oil filter as well. this thing is pushing almost 20 years old. show it some love.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
SabrToothSqrl said:
Hey; before you buy the old version of the drive shaft seal; why not look at switching it to the maintenance free and better carbon right setup? it might cost a bit more up front, but the carbon ring is the way to go!

mid 1998 they switched to using this cool stainless 'ring' and a big 'o' ring made of black carbon. You don't lube it, it spins at engine RPM, and doesn't let any water in the ski. It's a much better design.
http://osdparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_free_shipping_info&cPath=2&products_id=4
and
http://osdparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=230

but, if someone else could verify... I'm not 100% sure you don't need a new drive shaft. I actually have one from a '96XP that had a carbon ring setup, if it's the same. (for sale). I think I have that black rubber boot thing too for $5 if you need vs $16 new.

Also, if you have grey fuel lines (they may say 'tempo' on them) they were made before ethanol was raping our engines... replace them with new black fuel lines from an auto store, or if you really want, a boat store (so they are USCG approved).

(the ethanol eats them, turning them into green goo that will destroy your engine)

While your ordering parts... order a new fuel filter and oil filter as well. this thing is pushing almost 20 years old. show it some love.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info, I didnt think I have a carbon seal as I have one of these instead (or do I need both):
http://osdparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_free_shipping_info&cPath=2&products_id=1

I still need to install a new hull insert I believe. Best way to get the housing off anyone??
 
Correct, you have the OLD design that fails in the fashion you've just seen. I believe this is a good opportunity to upgrade to the carbon ring setup, since the cost will only be a bit more, and you will have an improved setup. .

that link you posted is the correct part for your ski, but it's the old design... if it were my ski, I'd go w/the new setup since you have to buy basically the whole thing anyway... I just want to make sure we got you the correct parts list.

You will have to remove the jet pump assembly to pull the shaft out and remove that rubber piece and the existing stuff.
 
SabrToothSqrl said:
Correct, you have the OLD design that fails in the fashion you've just seen. I believe this is a good opportunity to upgrade to the carbon ring setup, since the cost will only be a bit more, and you will have an improved setup. .

that link you posted is the correct part for your ski, but it's the old design... if it were my ski, I'd go w/the new setup since you have to buy basically the whole thing anyway... I just want to make sure we got you the correct parts list.

You will have to remove the jet pump assembly to pull the shaft out and remove that rubber piece and the existing stuff.
Click to expand...

Yea I knew that I would have to take that apart, I have already started, I just need to know the best way to get the housing off form the hull?

and thanks for the info, I will def upgrade to the carbon seal.

thanks again!
 
If you haven't figured out how to get the impeller housing off yet.
After you have removed the bolts holding it to the hull, then you may need to apply force at an angle since it is probably siliconed to the hull.
 
DooWacka said:
If you haven't figured out how to get the impeller housing off yet.
After you have removed the bolts holding it to the hull, then you may need to apply force at an angle since it is probably siliconed to the hull.
Click to expand...


thanks, so basically keep trying?

Appreciate all the helpful info!
 
You are talking about removing the impeller housing from the hull, right?
And you have already removed the nozzle and steering linkage etc., right?
If so, after the 4 housing nuts are removed, put the upper nozzle bolts (or lower) sticking out of their holes so you can apply leverage to them, in order to separate one side of the housing from the hull.
On some pumps there are a couple of protruding tabs that you can get a prybar under. Be careful prying against the hull, because it should move easily when prying.

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche... Sea Doo PWC SPX PROPULSION SYSTEM - EXTERNAL
 
Last edited by a moderator:
DooWacka said:
You are talking about removing the impeller housing from the hull, right?
And you have already removed the nozzle and steering linkage etc., right?
If so, after the 4 housing nuts are removed, put the upper nozzle bolts (or lower) sticking out of their holes so you can apply leverage to them, in order to separate one side of the housing from the hull.
On some pumps there are a couple of protruding tabs that you can get a prybar under. Be careful prying against the hull, because it should move easily when prying.

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche... Sea Doo PWC SPX PROPULSION SYSTEM - EXTERNAL
Click to expand...

yes that is exactly what I am talking about.

thank you that gave me some ideas to get it off..appreciate it.
 
DooWacka said:
You are talking about removing the impeller housing from the hull, right?
And you have already removed the nozzle and steering linkage etc., right?
If so, after the 4 housing nuts are removed, put the upper nozzle bolts (or lower) sticking out of their holes so you can apply leverage to them, in order to separate one side of the housing from the hull.
On some pumps there are a couple of protruding tabs that you can get a prybar under. Be careful prying against the hull, because it should move easily when prying.

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche... Sea Doo PWC SPX PROPULSION SYSTEM - EXTERNAL
Click to expand...

One other thing, I noticed taking each bolt out there is something with it, like i need to put something in the hole when I put the bolt back, is that loctite?
 
almost got it off.....the housing

DooWacka said:
You are talking about removing the impeller housing from the hull, right?
And you have already removed the nozzle and steering linkage etc., right?
If so, after the 4 housing nuts are removed, put the upper nozzle bolts (or lower) sticking out of their holes so you can apply leverage to them, in order to separate one side of the housing from the hull.
On some pumps there are a couple of protruding tabs that you can get a prybar under. Be careful prying against the hull, because it should move easily when prying.

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche... Sea Doo PWC SPX PROPULSION SYSTEM - EXTERNAL
Click to expand...
Ok, I finally got it ALMOST off, now it feels like something is holding it on, do I need to disconnect anything on the inside?will the long rod come out with it? if so it has the clamp on it going into the engine.

I noticed the 2 tubes at the top may be holding it in? Do I just keep pulling? Its on the edge of the bolts and i just need to get it the rest of the way off...almost done!

anything else that I might have forgot to disconnect?

housing.jpg

thanks again~!!
 
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