TrevorM
Active Member
That’s good to hear! Would you know what fittings I would need? I think I just need a “T” 1/4” fitting. I could be wrong though.
Purchased: Seadoo 1997 XP
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That’s good to hear! Would you know what fittings I would need? I think I just need a “T” 1/4” fitting. I could be wrong though.
You can just plug the return fitting on the carb and pump into the return hose.
As an added bonus, if you remove the plug from the PTO carb the pressure in the system will force fuel into the carbs and prime it for you. Once you see a little fuel come out the return fitting on the rear carb quickly put the return hose on it. The ski should fire almost instantly.
Keep in mind also that the pressure relief valve on the tank is set at about 3-4 psi so that s all you can pressure test to but a leak should show up at that.
As an added bonus, if you remove the plug from the PTO carb the pressure in the system will force fuel into the carbs and prime it for you. Once you see a little fuel come out the return fitting on the rear carb quickly put the return hose on it. The ski should fire almost instantly.
Keep in mind also that the pressure relief valve on the tank is set at about 3-4 psi so that s all you can pressure test to but a leak should show up at that.
TrevorM
Active Member
I’m not sure if I completely follow. The manual instructions are:
1. Fill up fuel tank
2. disconnect air inlet hose of fuel tank from body (not sure what this is)
3. Install hose pincher on fuel tank vent hose
4. Connect pump gauge to air inlet hose and turn fuel OFF and pressurize to 5psi for 10min.
So you’re suggesting I pressurize the fuel system through the carbs?
Basically yes.
With the hoses connected correctly and the fuel selector on, take the return hose to the tank off the rear carb.
Plug the brass fitting on the rear carb that you just removed the hose from. You can use a cap or your thumb. Next connect your pop off gauge to the return hose you just removed and it should hold around 3-5 psi.
With the hoses connected correctly and the fuel selector on, take the return hose to the tank off the rear carb.
Plug the brass fitting on the rear carb that you just removed the hose from. You can use a cap or your thumb. Next connect your pop off gauge to the return hose you just removed and it should hold around 3-5 psi.
TrevorM
Active Member
Awesome I’ll try that way first! I’m still waiting for everything to come in as I ordered it all online. Also about the two little oil injection lines I was looking at those today. Are those held onto a nipple by a metal sleeve thing? Do I just pull the lines off? I heard you have to be careful?
JJinSC
Well-Known Member
Fuel vapor. He most likely had a fuel leak of some sort That is why I advise a fuel system pressure test after replacing the lines and/or fuel delivery system components. This is not something that can only happen on pwcs. It happens on inboards or inboard/outboards too. My parents neighbors had this happen with there cigarette boat last year and just last week a boat exploded at the Conway city marina area. There is nothing exclusive about an XP that would make this any more of a risk than any craft with the engine located inboard.
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TrevorM
Active Member
So a girl I went to school with blew up on a Polaris Virage last summer and was injured severally, so I’ve been really paranoid sometimes. I do plan on doing a fuel pressure test as mentioned in previous posts. I noticed if you slow down the video it looks like the explosion came from the back where the battery sits. You don’t think the battery blew up do you? Also I just bought a cheap Caltric AGM battery on eBay because eBay was giving me 10% off totaling the battery to $54.54. I’m being cheap because I haven’t decided if I want to keep it or sell it yet...
TrevorM
Active Member
I see. Thanks for your insight I will be getting everything done Friday/Saturday so I’ll keep you all updated. Hopefully I can figure out the fuel pressurizing as I want to do this right. I’ll try Miki’s Suggestion!
TrevorM
Active Member
I will be working on the XP all day tomorrow to replace fuel lines, oil injection lines, and carb rebuild. I will also check the pump and change out the cone oil. I was looking through the parts manual to check what you were referring to as far as inspecting the “drive shaft coupler adapter” are you referring to part number - 293 830 058? I try to implement all advice I get from here so I’m wanting to check it out.
TrevorM
Active Member
Been working on the Seadoo all day and have most of the fuel lines, fuel selector/valve, and fuel filter changed. I have the carbs out of the ski but I can’t get some of the bolts out (p.s no I don’t have a JIS screwdriver - yes I just ordered a set but on my last Seadoo I was able to take the bolts out with a regular Philips no problem). Anyways I think I need an impact screwdriver because these things are frozen up so bad I don’t think I can get them by a JIS handle screwdriver alone... Who knew busting a nut was so hard 
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TrevorM
Active Member
Cool I might go buy a cheap impact screwdriver because my JIS set won’t come in until Monday and I wanted to get these done over the weekend it’s driving me nuts I’m very impatient. Also that part looks kinda a pain in the butt to check/replace.
TrevorM
Active Member
Yeah but there’s two one by the pump and one by the engine. I might try to see if I can check/replace them. Im still a noobie at best.
JJinSC
Well-Known Member
If you take the top cover off of the carrier barring/seat suspension housing the forward shaft will pull completely out through there, though you do not have to pull it all the way out to replace the coupler at the PTO (front). Here is a link to my post as i was dealing with it earlier this season.
Drive shaft issue
Drive shaft issue
Drive shaft issue
Drive shaft issue
TrevorM
Active Member
Okay I’ll check it all out! I wish there were more YouTube video tutorials as I’m a visual learner more than I am through reading. I have the service manual and parts catalog so I’ll try that as reference as well! Also I just bought a $9 impact screwdriver time to go destroy some stuff 
Edit: Well I’m incapable of using an impact driver and I honestly think I will end up destroying something if I keep going at it. I got two of the screws out using vice grip pliers but the others are so seized I have no idea what to do. I’m done for the night as I’m getting worked up.
Edit: Well I’m incapable of using an impact driver and I honestly think I will end up destroying something if I keep going at it. I got two of the screws out using vice grip pliers but the others are so seized I have no idea what to do. I’m done for the night as I’m getting worked up.
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TrevorM
Active Member
Update: I was able to dissemble both carbs using an impact screwdriver. The carbs are now fully rebuilt. I did notice the pop off for both carbs are around 43psi which according to seadoosource is 28-48 psi. I noticed @GGuillot recommended to buy black 80g springs, but the carb reference says that these carbs use metallic silver 95g springs which were in the carbs during disassembly which I used the old springs as suggested by @mikidymac carb rebuild thread. I recorded the high and low speed screws and set them both to 0 HS and 1.5 LS.
All I have left is replace the fuel lines between the carbs and to install them back into the Seadoo. I’ve also removed and cleaned out the oil tank. Fuel lines are done, oil injection lines are done, new fuel selector installed, new fuel filter, and new oil filter installed! I’ll be ordering new RAVE gaskets & o rings as I want to dissemble and clean those as well. I’m still researching on the pump/driveshaft and might be ordering the driveshaft coupled adapter I saw an eBay auction on here for those adapter From JSP (Jetski Parts?) for $8+/ea.
All I have left is replace the fuel lines between the carbs and to install them back into the Seadoo. I’ve also removed and cleaned out the oil tank. Fuel lines are done, oil injection lines are done, new fuel selector installed, new fuel filter, and new oil filter installed! I’ll be ordering new RAVE gaskets & o rings as I want to dissemble and clean those as well. I’m still researching on the pump/driveshaft and might be ordering the driveshaft coupled adapter I saw an eBay auction on here for those adapter From JSP (Jetski Parts?) for $8+/ea.
GGuillot
Well-Known Member
Curious, does your carbs have the accelerator pump? I've seen some with and without. A buddy I know with a 97 XP and his doesn't.
TrevorM
Active Member
Mine has accelerator pump.
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