Purchased: Seadoo 1997 XP
- Thread starter TrevorM
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TrevorM
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Well here’s all the parts that came off after taking the seat off and realizing the spring/strut assembly came apart... that big black thing is still bolted in the Seadoo. The thing I circled red can’t screw into the black cylinder strut. The yellow circled thing looks like some bushing that I have no idea where it goes but it was inside the assembly torn apart when it came out.
Side not: I charged the lawn mower battery that came with the Seadoo to full charge and rechecked the compression with two different gauges. Both gauges read 140/140psi is that good?
Side not: I charged the lawn mower battery that came with the Seadoo to full charge and rechecked the compression with two different gauges. Both gauges read 140/140psi is that good?
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TrevorM
Active Member
Good to hear the compression is within acceptable range. Last night I order the seat strut/shock absorber assembly and the shock boot as you can tell in my picture mine was pretty torn up. $35 for assembly $10 for boot. I’m still on the fence whether or not to keep it or sell it... It looks really cool and I haven’t water tested it yet due to the fact that the previous owner had the wrong oil and bad gasoline in it. I’m trying to estimate how much it would cost to replace fuel and oil lines and do a carb rebuild as I’m trying to keep my cost low.
TrevorM
Active Member
That’s not too bad! I’ve read that I don’t need to replace all the oil lines only the tiny injector ones on the pump correct? Also I plan to use standard automotive fuel lines this time around because my last Seadoo I used marine grade and spent $80 on fuel lines alone...
TrevorM
Active Member
Would you say $137 is a fair price for a full carb rebuild kit? It’s all genuine Mikuni. Comes with rebuild kit, needle/seats, and base gaskets. Also I’m trying to find the best place to buy the oil injector lines. The oil injector lines should be 3/32 tygon correct? Oh and since the previous owner had TCW-3 how do I flush out the other oil lines that aren’t being replaced?
TrevorM
Active Member
Yes, I purchased oil filter and fuel strainer/filter as a bundle by WSM. I also plan to change fuel selector as you told me to do that in my previous 01 GTX which I did and it worked good! I’ll find out how much fuel line and oil injection line I need and I’ll buy everything and get to working on everything! I’m going to clean RAVE’s too. Also could I hook up my siphon pump to the oil like and pump out any remaining old oil in the lines? I’m afraid of the oil gumming up.
GGuillot
Well-Known Member
Yep, good price shipped, this is exactly what I paid for X 2 for my 2 skis, that I know of, bayareapowersports and OSD are the only ones that carry the genuine kits. If it's bayarea, just buy the 80 gram springs separate, don't use the ones in the kit, everything else will be there. Use everything, including the HS and LS needle orings. I went one more step and bought the SS allen head screws from a person on ebay, $8 per carb.
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TrevorM
Active Member
It’s from bayareapowesports that kit I was referring to! Can’t I reuse the springs already in the carbs?
GGuillot
Well-Known Member
You can, but it may be difficult to tell if they're correct springs. For the blk 80 grams, it's about $11 shipped for 2 on ebay if you search a little. With the new springs and new spring arms, the pop off will be dead on between each carb. I was getting about 34-35 psi per carb when I did the pop off test. No carb/run issues for me thus far on either ski since I put them on. But as you know, attention to detail in the carbs is only one component.
TrevorM
Active Member
I’ll try to look for the springs. I’m trying to figure out how difficult the job is going to be replacing all the fuels lines and taking off carbs to rebuild. The XP is really small and confined. I’m not even sure the best way to pull out the fuel baffle to clean the screen on it as I can barely fit my hands down the little hole underneath the seat area.
TrevorM
Active Member
Thanks for the encouragement! It was sorta a pain to get the carbs off/on my 951 GTX so I hope these go smoother I’m still a noob but I’m learning! Also if I’ve done some researching do you guys think I should add an inline fuel filter? I always thought adding another filter would restrict fuel flow but not sure.
TrevorM
Active Member
Hey guys I’m going to the auto parts store to pick up fuel line, but after doing a ton of research it seems like people are conflicted on the 97 XP some say 1/4” others say 5/16” and some even say it uses both? I noticed a handful of people who actually have a 97 XP on here so could someone who’s done this on a 97 XP chime in please and thank you!
Ckrawiec
Well-Known Member
In My '96 GTX had all 1/4" grey fuel hose, I replaced with 1/4" black auto fuel hose. I also ordered a new fuel baffle assembly after the fact...the NEW fuel baffle assembly had 1/4" AND 5/16" nipples on the top whereas the original non-working fuel guage/baffle had all 1/4" nipples on top...(no big deal to ream out the 1/4" fuel lines just a touch to fit the nipples).
Not really an answer to your question but I BELIEVE you should be all set with 1/4" fuel line - 25' should do it.
The 1997 XP uses 5/16" for the supply lines to the filter, selector and carbs. The return line is 1/4". You can even check the parts diagram to verify. The vent lines from the tank to the outside hull fittings do not need to be replaced but the check valves should be checked.
JJinSC
Well-Known Member
This is right on.
TrevorM
Active Member
So I ordered the full Mikuni Genuine Carburetor rebuild kits and a new fuel valve selector. I called around all of the local auto parts stores and they are all way over priced on regular fuel line so I’ll be buying a 25’ roll of 1/4” and 5/16” from amazon for $20/ea.
I do have a question though after reading the service manual it says a pressure test must be done anytime the fuel system is worked on. How would I go about doing this pressure test? Could I use my pop off pressure gauge I use for the carbs to pressurize my fuel system to 5psi as the manual recommends?
I do have a question though after reading the service manual it says a pressure test must be done anytime the fuel system is worked on. How would I go about doing this pressure test? Could I use my pop off pressure gauge I use for the carbs to pressurize my fuel system to 5psi as the manual recommends?
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