Pumping antifreeze speedster winterization

[pudder]

Hey folks, its a few months away yet but I'm curious if this is a good practice or not. I was thinking of using a low pressure pump to winterize my speedster 150 through the flush port obviously with the engine running. Yes? no? Would this be ok? Maybe this is a normal practice Im new to these units.Thanks

 

[RFoster130]

That's how I do it on my 98. Im not sure on the 4 stroke, but I don't see why it would be a problem.

 

[Ryan40601]

I'm curious also , since the engine is a closed loop cooling system , I'm thinking pump it right in through the fitting in rear after motor is running shut pump then shut engine, should work, I do my jet ski this way! U r really just write rising the exhaust .

 

[pudder]

It seems like the best way to me... why unhook different piping when anti freeze can be circulated through the same as water. Maybe I'm missing something... maybe this is would require a longer then 5 minute run time to be sure everything has glycol? It seems logical enough to do that it should have been an option in the manual. That reason is why I asking, maybe there is a specific reason not to do it like burnt and gummy residue left in the exhaust?

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[pvamax]

Hey folks, its a few months away yet but I'm curious if this is a good practice or not. I was thinking of using a low pressure pump to winterize my speedster 150 through the flush port obviously with the engine running. Yes? no? Would this be ok? Maybe this is a normal practice Im new to these units.Thanks

This method is the way to do it. Removes any chance of water in the intercooler and waterbox. Just run it until it comes out the pump. Done.

 

[pudder]

Thanks everyone. I feel good about doing it that way. It will be in my garage but if I went out in January and forgot to close the garage door with it un winterized I would not be the happiest dude.

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[ID62]

Hi, I stored my Seadoo outsides during last winter. I only checked if there is enough anti-freeze in the closed cooling system and I run the engine for few seconds w/o flushing the exhaust to blow out a little bit of the water which might in the exhaust system. The rest shouldn't be a problem (if there is a rest left) because there is enough space for it when it freezes. It's not the same situation then in a closed cooling loop where the system is fully filled up. We had temperatures below minus 18° Celsius and I didn't have any problems with the boat when I took it out in spring. Now it was running during the whole summer w/o any issue. When you store the boat outsides just cover it with a good boat-cover. The original Seadoo cover isn't good enough for this issue since it's not a good protection against heavy rain. I had always some water in the bilge before I bought another boat-cover. Additionally I sprayed a kind of silicone-oil at the metal, aluminum parts and the jet-pump. The previous owner used the boat in salt water but it seams he didn't take care very much. Fortunately he sold it after three month ;-)

Btw, it’s a 150 w. 155HP engine

 

[sgoyal]

If it's self draining that mean antifreeze would drain too? Isn't this true?

According to 2010 or 2011 manual, all we need to check if antifreeze hasn't degraded. ofcourse, we have to perform other steps too but those seems so easy.

 

[devonte007]

Yep, that's how I winterize my Sportster. Just use an old bilge pump I found laying around the garage, hooked up some tubing and a quick connect fitting to the flush port; start the engine, the the pump, and run about 2 gal. through until it comes out pink from both the pump and the exhaust. By the way, I use the non-toxic RV pink antifreeze.

Technically, if you have the N/A engines without the supercharger it is self draining, only the super charged inter cooled engines really need the antifreeze flush. I do it though just to be on the safe side, cheap and easy.

I have some pictures of my flush setup if anyone wants them, I think most of the fittings and such I found in the garage. I'll post some pictures if anyone is interested.
--Deven

 

[devonte007]

I had a couple of requests to post some pictures of my winterizing setup, so here is what I use:

Overall view of what you need
1. 2-3 gallons of (non-toxic) RV antifreeze per engine
2. Bucket that will hold at least 3 gallons

3. Quick connect hose adapter

4. Old bilge pump or other type of water pump that will pressurize and pump water through your engine just like the hose would do if you were running it out of water. I just used an old 12 volt bilge pump I found in the garage, hooked up some long wire leads with battery clips on the end.

5. Length of hose to connect the bilge pump outlet to the flush port on the boat, maybe about 4ft or so. Clear hose is best so you can see what is being pumped in as you do this.

6. 12 volt battery, to hook up the bilge pump. I suppose you can use the boat battery or what ever source of power you need depending on what type of pump you use. I always have an extra 12 volt battery in the garage so usually just use that for ease.


7. Some type of threaded plumbing adapter to put on the end of the clear hose so that you can screw on the quick connect fitting and hook it up to the boat flush port. Again, this really depends on what type of pump and hose you are using, be creative.

8. A buddy to help if possible.


Just hook everything up, thread the quick connect into the back of the engine flush port, connect your clear hose to the bilge pump, get your battery ready to hook up and insert the bilge pump into the bucket and pour in 2-3 gallons of the RV antifreeze.

The rest is easy, start the boat (do one engine at a time just as you would if you were flushing the engine on the hose), then turn on your bilge pump to start pumping the pink stuff through the engine. You may need to hold the bilge pump down in the bucket which is where your helper buddy comes in. I keep pumping until i see pink running out of the jet pump and the exhaust hole. You want to make sure that you get it through the entire system especially if you have the supercharged intercooled engine. Plus you want to make sure that you get enough in the exhaust water boxes to prevent freezing. You may need to keep topping off the bucket of antifreeze while it is pumping through the engine to keep the bilge pump submerged.

When you are satisfied that enough anti-freeze has been pumped through the engine, simply turn your bilge pump off. Then I like to give the engine a couple good rev's to dispel as much liquid from the muffler boxes, and shut it off. It should not take more than about 1 min. to get the antifreeze through the engine. So in total your engine should not be running for more than 2 min., which is about the limit anyway to avoid damaging your boat.

After this is done, proceed with all the other winterization tasks and you will be done. I find this is much easier than pulling off hoses in the engine compartment and pouring antifreeze down tubes. Also, I like to use the non-toxic antifreeze because some of this will come out when you run the boat next spring and it's best to avoid polluting our boating waters.

I'll try to make a video and post when I do this myself in a couple weeks, if I have some help.... Feel free to reply with questions or anything and I'll do my best to help you all out.
--Deven

 

[baumann6]

I was wondering if this way would work for the 260hp engine with the external inter cooler as I already have a bilge pump that I can use just wanting to make sure this will be good enough. Thanks.

 

[devonte007]

Yep it sure will, just make sure you pump enough of it through until you see it come out the jet pump and the exhaust hole. Then you know the pink stuff got all the way through there. Better to pump too much through instead of not enough.

I was also reading another winterization thread today that indicated Seadoo now recommends that the the water be blown out with compressed air through the flush port (engine running obviously so it does not back flush into the engine) instead of the antifreeze method. So it's your choice. I feel a little safer with the antifreeze method though.

 

[baumann6]

I like the idea of antifreeze also will have to get some extra antifreeze when I winterize the camper so I can do the boat also. Thanks.

 

[Seadoobuddy]

This method is the way to do it. Removes any chance of water in the intercooler and waterbox. Just run it until it comes out the pump. Done.

That's the way I've done for the last 2 years. 787 motor

 

[exploring/carolina]

I had a couple of requests to post some pictures of my winterizing setup, so here is what I use:

Overall view of what you need
1. 2-3 gallons of (non-toxic) RV antifreeze per engine
2. Bucket that will hold at least 3 gallons
3. Quick connect hose adapter


4. Old bilge pump or other type of water pump that will pressurize and pump water through your engine just like the hose would do if you were running it out of water. I just used an old 12 volt bilge pump I found in the garage, hooked up some long wire leads with battery clips on the end.


5. Length of hose to connect the bilge pump outlet to the flush port on the boat, maybe about 4ft or so. Clear hose is best so you can see what is being pumped in as you do this.


6. 12 volt battery, to hook up the bilge pump. I suppose you can use the boat battery or what ever source of power you need depending on what type of pump you use. I always have an extra 12 volt battery in the garage so usually just use that for ease.


7. Some type of threaded plumbing adapter to put on the end of the clear hose so that you can screw on the quick connect fitting and hook it up to the boat flush port. Again, this really depends on what type of pump and hose you are using, be creative.

8. A buddy to help if possible.


Just hook everything up, thread the quick connect into the back of the engine flush port, connect your clear hose to the bilge pump, get your battery ready to hook up and insert the bilge pump into the bucket and pour in 2-3 gallons of the RV antifreeze.

The rest is easy, start the boat (do one engine at a time just as you would if you were flushing the engine on the hose), then turn on your bilge pump to start pumping the pink stuff through the engine. You may need to hold the bilge pump down in the bucket which is where your helper buddy comes in. I keep pumping until i see pink running out of the jet pump and the exhaust hole. You want to make sure that you get it through the entire system especially if you have the supercharged intercooled engine. Plus you want to make sure that you get enough in the exhaust water boxes to prevent freezing. You may need to keep topping off the bucket of antifreeze while it is pumping through the engine to keep the bilge pump submerged.

When you are satisfied that enough anti-freeze has been pumped through the engine, simply turn your bilge pump off. Then I like to give the engine a couple good rev's to dispel as much liquid from the muffler boxes, and shut it off. It should not take more than about 1 min. to get the antifreeze through the engine. So in total your engine should not be running for more than 2 min., which is about the limit anyway to avoid damaging your boat.

After this is done, proceed with all the other winterization tasks and you will be done. I find this is much easier than pulling off hoses in the engine compartment and pouring antifreeze down tubes. Also, I like to use the non-toxic antifreeze because some of this will come out when you run the boat next spring and it's best to avoid polluting our boating waters.

I'll try to make a video and post when I do this myself in a couple weeks, if I have some help.... Feel free to reply with questions or anything and I'll do my best to help you all out.
--Deven

Deven,

Thanks for the tips!

 

[donmat23]

Yes I did see this and had already made a copy of it. Nice writeup.

I have a similar setup I use for my yamaha 4 stroke outboard except I gravity feed to muffs on the motor instead of using a pump. I actually recover most of the antifreeze and reuse (I test the antifreeze to make sure it stays at full strength). In this case also it is self draining but I do it for extra safety. It gets pretty cold in Maine!!

I may try the gravity approach with the Seadoo to see if it will work. I don't see why it wouldn't. In the case of the Seadoo I will have to open the antifreeze valve after I start the engine while with the yamaha it has to be opened before.

Thanks again for the info.

 

[can128]

Yep, that's how I winterize my Sportster. Just use an old bilge pump I found laying around the garage, hooked up some tubing and a quick connect fitting to the flush port; start the engine, the the pump, and run about 2 gal. through until it comes out pink from both the pump and the exhaust. By the way, I use the non-toxic RV pink antifreeze.

Technically, if you have the N/A engines without the supercharger it is self draining, only the super charged inter cooled engines really need the antifreeze flush. I do it though just to be on the safe side, cheap and easy.

I have some pictures of my flush setup if anyone wants them, I think most of the fittings and such I found in the garage. I'll post some pictures if anyone is interested.
--Deven

Would you recommend this method for a 2000 GTX DI?

 

[KevinLab010]

Great set up- thanks for posting it. I think i have everything to make that work. Did you get around to that video yet?

 

[devonte007]

Unfortunately I did not get to make the video this year. I was on my own winterizing again, didn't have the setup for a video. Sorry, but if you have any specific questions just let me know and I'll do what I can to help.

 

[charmz]

Is this needed for non-supercharged machines?
I have 07 150 speedster 155hp....

Trying to figure out if this is an essential process or not for me.

 

[KevinLab010]

Yep, that's how I winterize my Sportster. Just use an old bilge pump I found laying around the garage, hooked up some tubing and a quick connect fitting to the flush port; start the engine, the the pump, and run about 2 gal. through until it comes out pink from both the pump and the exhaust. By the way, I use the non-toxic RV pink antifreeze.

Technically, if you have the N/A engines without the supercharger it is self draining, only the super charged inter cooled engines really need the antifreeze flush. I do it though just to be on the safe side, cheap and easy.

I have some pictures of my flush setup if anyone wants them, I think most of the fittings and such I found in the garage. I'll post some pictures if anyone is interested.
--Deven

Hi Deven, could you send me or post the pics? I have a 2003 sportster 4 tec and the flush fitting on the boat looks odd. Would like to see if yours is the same.

thx Kev

 

[devonte007]

Unfortunately the boat is in storage and I will not see it until next spring, so I can't post any pictures and don't have any on hand to post. Here is a pic from the shop manual that shows the flush connector back by the jet pump housing:

It is a small pipe sticking out the housing, and when looking at the back of the boat I believe it is in the upper right hand quadrant (unlike the picture I posted). If you post a good picture looking at the jet pump with the reverse bucket down (in reverse) I can help point out the flush connector. It is the same connector you use to flush fresh water through after using the boat in a dirty lake or salt water. You will know you have the correct pipe because it has threads on the inside that will fit a standard garden hose (apparently they may have changed the thread type on the newer 2012 boats from a recent post I saw).

Hope this helps some, but if you post a couple pics of your boat I can probably point you to the correct flush port. Even though you have a 2003 it should be the same as mine as long as it is not the 2-stroke version.

 

[KevinLab010]

Unfortunately the boat is in storage and I will not see it until next spring, so I can't post any pictures and don't have any on hand to post. Here is a pic from the shop manual that shows the flush connector back by the jet pump housing:

It is a small pipe sticking out the housing, and when looking at the back of the boat I believe it is in the upper right hand quadrant (unlike the picture I posted). If you post a good picture looking at the jet pump with the reverse bucket down (in reverse) I can help point out the flush connector. It is the same connector you use to flush fresh water through after using the boat in a dirty lake or salt water. You will know you have the correct pipe because it has threads on the inside that will fit a standard garden hose (apparently they may have changed the thread type on the newer 2012 boats from a recent post I saw).

Hope this helps some, but if you post a couple pics of your boat I can probably point you to the correct flush port. Even though you have a 2003 it should be the same as mine as long as it is not the 2-stroke version.

Hey Deven- great thanks. looks like one I have used on my lawn sprinkler...cool! Nice when designers keep things simple.

 

[pudder]

All done. While running, I used a 1/4hp 110v pump with 50psi rv pressure regulator, pumped 100% un mixed antifreeze until it came out yellow. Fogged the motor till it stalled and pulled the supercharger for a rebuild.

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[Ryan40601]

I brought my 2012 c180 se in for the bull....t 10 hour service and spoke to the tech whom I know to be a straight up honest guy ,he said seadoo only recommends compressed air for winterization now! I watched him hook up the compressor to the flush fitting and just blow it out ,he also lowered the front of boat as low as possible to along water to drain from supercharger , removed plugs spayed some fogging oil on them shot some in cylinders ,cranked over to coat the walls and that was it! However I do my jet ski winterizing and used the pump and antifreeze. Method, go figure?