Pump pressure test.

[LouDoo]

I've always changed the pump oil and have not done a pressure test. Yesterday it back fired on me. After going to the lake yesterday I noticed a white substance coming out of the rear of the pump. Of course this means water in the pump oil.

I removed the pump cone drained the oil/water flushed it out with brake clean and I am now ready to refill the pump.

I've learned two things from this, always use a new "O" ring, I didn't, if the "O" ring looks O.K. I've always just re-used the old one. And do a pressure test on the pump.

This is my question, the pressure test looks easy enough to do. My question is has anyone made a home made pressure tester? Or is there another method using another tool that will work? I think this question has come up before I have searched but can't find the answer.

Lou

 

[Seadoobuddy]

Lou, great question.
I'm about to change the oil in my pump today since I now have a new o-ring. I never knew it should be pressure tested.
I'll keep checking on this thread to learn something new "again".

 

[crisso]

There is a thread on here about it.It was about a year ago.That's all I can remember.Sorry.(the memory is shot with all the pain killers)

 

[RFoster130]

Snipe has a good pic of his tool setup. Look at post #12

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?4151-Snipes-Korner...

 

[LouDoo]

Thanks for all the input guys, I actually found one it's a combination carb. pop off tester with and adapter to do a pressure test on the pump. It's 30.00, I know I could build one for less, but this takes all the hassle out of chasing around getting the parts, etc. If anyone is interested PM me and I'll let you know the "source".

Lou

 

[crisso]

RFoster! that was it.Snipes.Silly me

 

[Seadoobuddy]

In this post #12.....the hose from the gauge leads to what? Another hose or the pump fill hole? Doesn't the needle at the end of the gauge connection have 2 holes in it to inflate items? doesn't it need to be blocked off.
As always I'm confused......LOL

Jet pump and shaft/ air test.

I have recently done a rebuilld on my pump (1997 GTX).

About 3 months ago, I bought a Solas Concord impeller to add a bit to the performance of the ski. When I tore it down, I found my forward bearings (inner bearings) out of spec and the shaft was etched with 2 grooves. In the pictures below, you can just barely make out the damage to the shaft. I posted 2 pix because I had to get the camera so close to try and catch the grooves that they blurred a bit.

The grooves on the shaft measured .05". I also wasted my wearing ring between the time I found the problem in the bearings (while putting on the new impeller) to the time I was able to get the rebuild kit and set it up for my off season work.

It's very hard to see but someone with a mechanics eye might spot the wear in the bearings behind the seal. It was so easy to see up close, not so easy to capture in a picture.

There is also a picture of my airtest. When replacing the seal or if you suspect water is penetrating the seal (yellowish oil), you should do an air test.

The air test is simple enough. After draining the oil, attach a fitting to the cone where your cap is. Use your pop-off air system to take the pressure up to 10 minutes. Then, hold it for ten minutes.

Where to find the adapter for the pump? If you do not have the fittings for adapting your air system to the cone, go to Lowe's and look in their air tools section. There, you will find a small kit with different size adapters. I believe the small case had 4 or 5 pieces to it. Seems I remember one of them was for blowing up basketballs. There is a brass adapter about 2" long in this kit. Take your pump plug with you to be certain you have the correct adapter.

Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version Name: Shaft.JPG‎ Views: 191 Size: 261.0 KB ID: 3610 Click image for larger version Name: Shaft1.JPG‎ Views: 173 Size: 235.7 KB ID: 3611 Click image for larger version Name: Stator and seal.JPG‎ Views: 203 Size: 264.0 KB ID: 3612 Click image for larger version Name: Air test.JPG‎ Views: 236 Size: 411.2 KB ID: 3613 Click image for larger version Name: Hold 10 psi.JPG‎ Views: 154 Size: 278.7 KB ID: 3614

 

[crisso]

Was this a replay of Days of Our Lives.Did Lou really o-ring crack under the pressure
Was there another person involved.
Did Solas add to the performance of SDB or was it the Viagrate
Was his shaft really grooved from an old friend,or were the pictures a make believe of what was wanting.
At the doctor.Did he have a funny color seeping from his cone.Only pressure will tell.10 mins and he is still waiting.
This is all so hard to bare.The Gynoseadoologist has the world waiting
Stay tunedcheers:Sorry guys.Couldn't resist this one)

 

[LouDoo]

Wow, SDB, you should move to the head of the class, I had no idea you did all that to your ski. We should be asking you the questions, I didn't realize that you were a pro. BTW the pictures don't show up.

Lou

 

[flowmasterman]

where did you get the new o-ring at, should the 2 smaller o-rings on the bailer be replaced too? And I thought I read somewhere that loc tite 518 I think it was ?? to be used on the o-ring as well?

 

[LouDoo]

I think the last time I bought "O" rings I got them from Parker Yamaha. However because of shipping it's usually cheaper the get them from your local dealer. The small "O" rings you can get at Lowe's or the hardware store. According to the manual you should use Locktite 518 anerobic sealant on the "O" ring. I work at an auto dealership and I used the Volvo equivalent. Also the manual says to use the Locktite 518 on the surface between the pump and nozel attachment, however I'm not sure that it's necessary.

Lou

 

[RFoster130]

I do use the loctite 518 on the cone surface. I have heard of other people using other sealants, but a few bucks in my mind is worth not locking a pump up when it leaks.