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Problems after Jet Pump Rebuild and Impeller Replacement

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Hi so over the past week I did some work to my ski, a 2002 RX.
-I put in an OEM wear ring.
-I Rebuilt Jet Pump
-I installed Solas Dynafly 13/19 impeller.
---NOTE: Just did this work because my wear ring needed replacement so I figured id do it all now, there were no prior issues.

I took it out on the lake hoping for some improvements but to my surprise actually experienced problems.
When I first turned it on and gave it gas it would die out, after 3 or 4 times it stopped dieing but now instead it made sort of a rattling sound and would cavitate while first accelerating. However once I got it up to WOT it actually showed a 2MPH increase in my top speed and I had a passenger. It seemed as though throughout the day it would sort of fix itself but afterall there is some underlying problem and I'd like to figure it out. What could be the problem with the noise and acceleration issues.
Thanks in advance.
 
There are a couple things to consider.. Did you replace the bearings? how about the o-rings around the cone? what sort of oil did you put in? If there is a rattle, something isn't done up tight, or the bearings are going out.
 
I replaced all the bearings and seals. and used gear oil. I did a complete pump rebuild so thebearings are new.
There are a couple things to consider.. Did you replace the bearings? how about the o-rings around the cone? what sort of oil did you put in? If there is a rattle, something isn't done up tight, or the bearings are going out.
 
Hey lou, I think you may have misunderstood me. It actually gets up to a higher speed now then before, but the initial acceleration is screwed up. I will go back and check my work and see if I can find any other issues. I have already tried reattaching the jet pump thinking maybe it was not aligned properly but that didnt help.
Go back and recheck your work, it's very easy to crush the thrust bearing part no. 21, with the thrust washer 22. Don't ask me how I know.

http://fiche.seadoowarehouse.com/se...seadoopwc&a=213&b=20&c=0&d=-PROPULSION-SYSTEM

The loss of top end speed may be a function of the new impeller, sometimes quicker out of the hole, slower top end, it's a trade off.

Lou
 
SBT sells several kits. The prop you got was recommended for your RX? Any chance you have a carbon seal issue that is more apparent with the new prop? Just throwing some thoughts out there.
 
SBT sells several kits. The prop you got was recommended for your RX? Any chance you have a carbon seal issue that is more apparent with the new prop? Just throwing some thoughts out there.

The impeller was their suggested impeller for my ski.
The carbon seal is the ring around the jet pump assembly that seals connection between hull? (if so it was fine)
However there is one thing i forgot to mention. The impeller boot solas sent me didnt fit around the drive shaft so I had to use the old boot I had from original prop, however it seemed to fit.
 
I took a picture of my driveshaft assembely. All the pieces looked fairly new. However the boot on the one end looks like it may have moved (see the rust spot next to it) and it also looks very bloated. Also the bellow moves side to side and back and forth fairly easy, is this okay or is this bad? I'd hate to have to buy all new seals and this not be the issue, any way to test it out?
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SBT sells several kits. The prop you got was recommended for your RX? Any chance you have a carbon seal issue that is more apparent with the new prop? Just throwing some thoughts out there.
 
These aren't part of the pump rebuild kits. These would be listed under drive shaft rebuild but you will spend far more in fuel and oil riding this thing than the cost of a few pieces of rubber. The front piece is just a grease boot for the splines. The bulge is from slight over greasing. The bellows should be a bit hard to push towards the rear. This holds the black piece on the front against that stainless steel ring and "seals" the drive shaft exit. It will have a little side to side play as the hole it the end is not snug against the shaft. The steel ring has o-rings in it. They need to be good along with the surfaces of the steel ring and the carbon ring. This keeps your pump from sucking air into it from inside your bilge. The rear hose clamp on the bellows can be loosened and pushed forward a little to increase pressure against the steel ring if it seems too loose. With the ski running in the water (on the trailer still tied down is easier), pop the seat off and look at the seal. Rev it up a little. If you don't see any water leaking shut off the motor. if it is still not leaking, your probably fine. If it drips occasionally that is normal as this is how is keeps cool.
 
So if there is an air leak it will leak water? if this is the case will I be able to tell while testing it with a hose or will it only leak under a heavier load in the water?
 
Gotta water test it...if you can open hatch and see if its leaking at idle or even just sitting in water...but don't stick your hands down there and feel while it is running...sometimes it takes time for the carbon ring to seat in if its not flush...no cracks on your pump were you bolt the nozzle on at...4 bolts..?
 
Alright once the weather allows me to I'll bring it out again. The original pump had cracks in those screws but ran fine but I was nervous it could getworse so I replaced the pump. No cracks looks new.
 
A small update, I took the pump and everything apart including the drive shaft. I didnt notice anything wrong other then maybe the boot on the end of shaft wasnt on right. However I started up the ski (not in water) and the bellow and carbon seal vibrated and shook pretty hard, which seemed odd because on my other ski it doesnt move at all.
 
Yea that sucks.....try checking your motor mounts.....one could be broke..sure you didn't bend the driveshaft at all when you had it out?....you didn't use it as a tool to remove your impeller did you?
 
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