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Port Engine won't go above 5000 RPM

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IBGMann2

IBGMann2

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Hello everyone,

My 1995 Seadoo Speedster twin engine was on the lake today running great. Towards the end of the day I noticed that while getting up on a plane, the port engine wouldn't go over 5000 rpm. Once the boat was really moving it was fine go to 7000 rpm. When I would come to a stop and gun the port engine, all I would do is get 5000 rpm. The SB engine revs well up to 7000 with ease.
I recently put new wear rings in and new spark plugs... I did notice that when at idle that engine puffing a little smoke. Maybe it running rich? Any Idea's. I know Dr. Honda has a the same boat and he knows everything!

Thanks!
 
my port motor only goes to about 4k then when on plane it goes fine. so i have a similar issue.

my SB motor. will go to about 4k then fly up to about 7k without really getting anywhere, but i am sure that is cavitation.
 
Hi guys. (both)

OK... normally, if the pump is running properly, the engine will "Load", and from a stand still, it will only go to 5000~5500 rpm. Then, as you gain speed, it will come up to 6800 or so at full throttle. (7000 is your red-line) So... without being in the boat, I'd say your problem is with the engine that is reving up to 7000 instantly. Since you have new wear rings... you either have an air leak around the shoe, or though the drive shaft seal/hull insert.

Actually, now that I see your boat is a 95... your red-line is 6550 RPM, and your full throttle speed should be around 6300~6400 rpm.

So yes... the engine that is reving high is the problem.

A little smoke is normal. It's a 2-stroke. If it seems excessive, then check to see if your injection pumps are set up properly.


Cli55er....

Yes, you have cavitation.
 
Hey Guys,

Thanks for the quick reply. Dr. Honda will I be able to see the air leak or see water coming in the engine compartment? I know what you are saying, and you guys can only help me so much without being on the boat, but the engine that revs to 7000 rpm moves the boat pretty good. The port engine hits 5000 and really doesn't move the boat as much. It's strange, i'm going to put the boat on the water on Friday on the schuylkill near my house. Is there anything I should look for or try to diagnose this problem. Again guys, thanks for all your help. I will let you know what I find on Friday. One more thing this boat has a single grate for both engines can this be part of the problem?

Thanks
 
IBGMann2 said:
Dr. Honda will I be able to see the air leak or see water coming in the engine compartment?
Click to expand...

Not necessarily. if the shoe is leaking, it's sucking air around the pump, and into the intake.

If it's the drive shaft seal... the pack has 2 seals. One facing forward, and one backward. So, if the seal closest to the engine is totally gone, it can draw air into the pump... but you may not get water back.


IBGMann2 said:
I know what you are saying, and you guys can only help me so much without being on the boat, but the engine that revs to 7000 rpm moves the boat pretty good. The port engine hits 5000 and really doesn't move the boat as much. It's strange, i'm going to put the boat on the water on Friday on the schuylkill near my house. Is there anything I should look for or try to diagnose this problem.
Click to expand...


There can be multiple problems. As I said above... you shouldn't be reving past 6600 rpm. So, that engine may have a cavitation issue. Sure, once on a plane, it will be going well... but it shouldn't be that high.


The one that is running low... there could be a physical problem with that engine, or the pump may be starting to seize up. Take the spark plugs out, and turn the engine by hand. It should spin relatively free. Also, check the compression in that engine. It should be 150 psi, but anything over 135 will be OK.

IBGMann2 said:
Again guys, thanks for all your help. I will let you know what I find on Friday. One more thing this boat has a single grate for both engines can this be part of the problem?

Thanks
Click to expand...

I'm not getting what you are saying. one grate?
 
Dr. Honda

I'm going to check out all that you said. Thank you. When I said one grate I meant that both jet pumps feed from the same hole in the bottom of the boat. I was reading somewhere that they changed the style of the boat in new years so that there are two places, (I thought they were called grates!) that each pump fed from it's own grate. I just figured that maybe this was a common problem with the boat. I was just trying to give all the info I could. Sorry I didn't mean to confuse!

Thanks alot
 
Change out the spark plugs. This happedned two weeks ago to me and found a "wet" plug. Changed them out and I'm back to 100%:hurray:
 
on that particular boat (95 speedster), there really isnt a "ride-shoe". Its a big-ole grey transom piece, 1-unit, thats incorporated into the hull of boat. Has 1 big grate, then feeds both pumps. Cant think thats causing the issue, for the fact, of how its installed.

Just installed 2-sbt motors in same boat, along w/ stock impellors and rings, and both motors somewhat had same symptom....a "lag" around 5k, then once nose/bow dipped down, off it went to mid/high 6k rpms.
 
Jared, I was leaning in that direction. I'm bought new ones today and I'm gona put them in. The boat recently had a tune up but I maybe I got a bad one.

parrothd, the props are right. I rebuild one jet pump at a time. But you are right they are different.
 
All it takes is one bad plug and you think you need to tear everything apart. Yeah could be some cavitation, but I really doubt it. Carb issue...maybe. I'd bet good money on plugs though + they are a lot cheaper and less time consuming then other issues. If that's not it...oh well you spent $5 and 5 minutes of your time. Let us know either way.
 
Hello all,

Ok just go back from the river and Jared you were right I must have gotten a bad plug cause now i can sit there and spin the boat on each engine! I now see what Dr. Honda was talking about when the engine loads and then takes off at 5000 RPM. Boat is running great now, but I noticed that my Fuel Gauge is on E now.... Does it ever end? I've been reading some more on this site and this boat is know for this problem, something about the float in the tank. After I fix this it will be something else i'm sure!

Thanks Again:cheers:
 
Glad to hear it was an easy fix.:hurray: There are some good write ups on the fuel gauge problem. Does it register if you give the gauge some good taps? If not, it is probably the fuse. If tapping it works though, try cleaning the grounds behind the gauge.
 
Jared,

When I start one of the engines it does move alittle, like off of it's rest position to E. I think the float is messed up. I'm going to redo the seats this winter I'll mess with it then. Tired of working on it now I want to have fun on it! It has a reserve so I won't run out!

Thanks again!
 
I like your thinkin....... you've got a low fuel warning right? I did without a gauge for almost 2 years. I reupholstered this spring and it was well worth it. Not the easiest job to do, but worth it for sure. I'll send some pics if I get some free time tomorrow. The secret is 4-way stretch vinyl and lots of stretching.
 
pics of new vinyl & sewing
 

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Nice Job

Jared

Your seats look great. Did you buy the material and do it yourself? That is a great boat. One day I would love for my boat to look like that. Problem is that I haven't been able to find the fitted covers anywhere for my boat, it's 15 years old! I was thinking of have an local shop do it.

Thanks for the pics.
George :hurray:
 
seadooya said:
Just installed 2-sbt motors in same boat, along w/ stock impellors and rings, and both motors somewhat had same symptom....a "lag" around 5k, then once nose/bow dipped down, off it went to mid/high 6k rpms.
Click to expand...

Did you do anything to fix this? Or did you mean that this is how the boat is supposed to properly operate?
 
IBGmann2 I got the vinyl from http://www.diyupholsterysupply.com/all-sport.html. Decent price and good product. You will need a pneumatic upholstry stapler, a few thousand staples, a screwdriver, razerblade, a bottle of ibuprofen (for the tennis elbow you will develop) and lots of time and patience. All together I think I was into it about $300.
 
Toyotaron said:
Find seat covers made to fit oem colors www.seadooupholstery.com
I just redid mine this year with covers from them. Great fit and color.
Click to expand...

So they stitch up the covers to fit and we then just need to stretch them on and staple them?

Thanks Don.

EDIT: one more thing. Jared.. Do you find the black hydro turf hot in the sun on your feet?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Speedster seat covers

Yes they will come already stiched and formed to fit your application. He will also send you a sample of material if you not sure on the coloring. The match is pretty darn close to factory color in mine (purple). I thinks they cost about $150 shipped to Illinois. I paid the trim shop another $150 cash to install them after I removed them from the boat. Removal is not hard and on there site they have all the instructions on how to do it. I though about making my own but when I found out the seat framework is fiberglass there was no way with a stapler I would try. For $300 it was well worth every penny and no tennis elbow. Thanks to everyone for all the support here.
 
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