Jetskigoodies
Well-Known Member
The motor is back from getting painted and will be going in soon
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Please need help !!!!!!!
- Thread starter shift95
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CReynoldsMIZ
Well-Known Member
Hot diggity! I love getting email notifications from this thread. That dude can paint!
Jetskigoodies
Well-Known Member
Motor is going in today. We are home for dinner but have everything ready to drop in.
The mechanic lost the cooling fittings for the head and cylinders. We took the ones off our 98xp until our goodie box comes from [MENTION=41828]Minnetonka4me[/MENTION] which should be here monday.
All cleaned up
Manifold bolts
We opened up the carbs, and they were clean.
Everything was new
Diaphram
The screws were way off. The low speeds were out 2 1/2 and are suppose to be 1 1/4 and the high is 0 and on the pto side 1/4 both were 0
More caulk and a grey fuel line
This hole that is clogged would have been an issue. On a 951 there are pins that seat into the carb. The pins also make it nice to hold the gasket. However here it could have created an air leak. It is all cleaned out now
This is the pin i was talking about.
This is one of the bailer lines, someone put a bolt in it to cap it
The mechanic lost the cooling fittings for the head and cylinders. We took the ones off our 98xp until our goodie box comes from [MENTION=41828]Minnetonka4me[/MENTION] which should be here monday.
All cleaned up
Manifold bolts
We opened up the carbs, and they were clean.
Everything was new
Diaphram
The screws were way off. The low speeds were out 2 1/2 and are suppose to be 1 1/4 and the high is 0 and on the pto side 1/4 both were 0
More caulk and a grey fuel line
This hole that is clogged would have been an issue. On a 951 there are pins that seat into the carb. The pins also make it nice to hold the gasket. However here it could have created an air leak. It is all cleaned out now
This is the pin i was talking about.
This is one of the bailer lines, someone put a bolt in it to cap it
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Jetskigoodies
Well-Known Member
Found a couple more parts that are missing. Luckily I have a ski I can borrow the parts from.
Exhaust mount
Throttle bracket
The oil pump was missing the bracket for the cable
This did not have the bracket.
When I took off the cover of the green one we noticed the spring looked too long, so we looked at 3 other pumps and all had shorter springs. So we switched that out too.
The long spring was not seating right and if you tried to put the cover back on it was way too hard to tighen down.
We aligned the motor, which we had to take off the pump and then the carrier bearing and mount. Plus remove the 2 drive shafts.
We received this with 0 shims. The front mount needed a shim and the pump also needed a few shims.
We set the oil pump cable
At first it started out like this
A little adjustment but still not there.
3rd times the charm, looks perfect to me
So we hooked up all the fuel lines, positive cable, negative cable, pulse lines for the raves and carbs, put the pump and everything between the motor and pump back together.
Almost done, just need to hook up the exhaust, airbox and put in the oil tank. Then just go through everything and tidy up the lines.
The raves were not machined down. The bore was .50 over and one rave was stock and the other someone hacked up pretty bad. So the owner is having them trimmed down. He is going to trim down .25 off.
We spent alot of extra time just cleaning things that should have never been there. Alot of scraping and scotchbriting, so far we have about 50 hours into this between the 2 of us and we still have a full day to go, but everything has been gone through the right way. We are just hoping that all the electronics are good to go.
With all the time he put into the bodywork we wanted the inside to have the same attention.
Exhaust mount
Throttle bracket
The oil pump was missing the bracket for the cable
This did not have the bracket.
When I took off the cover of the green one we noticed the spring looked too long, so we looked at 3 other pumps and all had shorter springs. So we switched that out too.
The long spring was not seating right and if you tried to put the cover back on it was way too hard to tighen down.
We aligned the motor, which we had to take off the pump and then the carrier bearing and mount. Plus remove the 2 drive shafts.
We received this with 0 shims. The front mount needed a shim and the pump also needed a few shims.
We set the oil pump cable
At first it started out like this
A little adjustment but still not there.
3rd times the charm, looks perfect to me
So we hooked up all the fuel lines, positive cable, negative cable, pulse lines for the raves and carbs, put the pump and everything between the motor and pump back together.
Almost done, just need to hook up the exhaust, airbox and put in the oil tank. Then just go through everything and tidy up the lines.
The raves were not machined down. The bore was .50 over and one rave was stock and the other someone hacked up pretty bad. So the owner is having them trimmed down. He is going to trim down .25 off.
We spent alot of extra time just cleaning things that should have never been there. Alot of scraping and scotchbriting, so far we have about 50 hours into this between the 2 of us and we still have a full day to go, but everything has been gone through the right way. We are just hoping that all the electronics are good to go.
With all the time he put into the bodywork we wanted the inside to have the same attention.
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great job so far.
Who painted the motor?
I see it matches the hull.
Who painted the motor?
I see it matches the hull.
Jetskigoodies
Well-Known Member
Bill painted it. It really looks great inside that hull now. It wont be long now. We just have to get a nut for the exhaust clamp and the raves back and she will be a runner.
Man...USPS has gotten slow. That box should have been there Saturday. You guys had some snow though last week if I remember correctly.
On the alignment you want the midshaft bearing thing mounted when you align it. Loosen the 10mm nuts so the carrier is loose and do your alignment. Then...once its lined up motorwise, tighten the 10mm nuts and pull the alignment shaft.
You might have done it that way, I wasnt sure by your description.
Its pretty obvious the 98 and 99+ oil pumps are very different. 99+ had the bracket molded into the mag housing.
On the alignment you want the midshaft bearing thing mounted when you align it. Loosen the 10mm nuts so the carrier is loose and do your alignment. Then...once its lined up motorwise, tighten the 10mm nuts and pull the alignment shaft.
You might have done it that way, I wasnt sure by your description.
Its pretty obvious the 98 and 99+ oil pumps are very different. 99+ had the bracket molded into the mag housing.
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Just came across this thread and the ski looks great. The sealant that the guy used is not caulk but from the pictures is 1211. That is the correct sealant but definitely applied wrong. I like to use a very small amount on the paper gaskets just to make sure there is an air tight seal. By a little, I mean that the gasket just looks a little shiny and when installed and torqued almost none squeezes out. It also makes them very easy to remove if ever taken apart like the carb base gaskets. But do not reuse gaskets.
Also as usual JSG top notch work. Only thing I would suggest is for cleaning the case threads I would look into a set of these thread chasers.....
I have seen the correct tap remove enough material to cause them to not hold torque. Especially important in soft metals like aluminum.
Also as usual JSG top notch work. Only thing I would suggest is for cleaning the case threads I would look into a set of these thread chasers.....
I have seen the correct tap remove enough material to cause them to not hold torque. Especially important in soft metals like aluminum.
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Jetskigoodies
Well-Known Member
Ok the owner is shaving the raves. I told him to take off .25 mm. His bore is .5 over. Just making sure this is correct. Anyone ever shave down their raves? We always have full bore do it so I never really looked into it. The bore .5 is taken off the diameter. Since the rave is on one side of the cylinder wall we would need to shave enough clearance for the radius. The stock clearance is enough to even bore the cylinder .25 over and not need a trim.
purple_people_eater
New Member
Yes that's correct, also tell him to test before he runs it. To test: place the valves in there slots without the billows and rotate the engine over and watch the valves, should they even move in the slightest more needs to be shaved.
I have a question that's been on my mind for awhile, don't shot me for asking but given what our old skis are worth most of us fix up and restore this because we both love the skis and love the project aspect.
From a business standpoint if you have close to 60 hours in this ski at even cheap shop rates that's like 4k in labor. I guess I'm wondering with what an awesome job you are doing how much you are charging? Feel free to tell me it's none of my business!!!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
From a business standpoint if you have close to 60 hours in this ski at even cheap shop rates that's like 4k in labor. I guess I'm wondering with what an awesome job you are doing how much you are charging? Feel free to tell me it's none of my business!!!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Jetskigoodies
Well-Known Member
Well this first started off as just align the motor and hook it back up. That was going to be $200. When we saw it we told him the motor needed to come apart and for the disassemble and reassemble we were gonna give him a break and charge him just an extra $50 plus what ever parts. That is currently what we charged him. We didn't anticipate all the extra time we would have cleaning each part. Of course running a business this way would not make sense. However we thought this guy needed a break after being screwed over. We ended up going through everything and going a bit overboard. We would charge probably $1000 to do this. We treat everything we do as it is our own. This is why we flip skis not fix them
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purple_people_eater
New Member
I have set job rates, like I charge 75 a carb to rebuild, if you have me do fuel lines at the same time it's 100. If it's just fuel lines it's 140. In other words I kinda charge for what I have to take off and if I'm already in the I'll give a small discount. My last restore and rebuild for a customer cost him 2200. But that was 2200 for a brand new 2 stroke ski where a used high hour 4 stroke in my area is 4k. And I play that aspect. A lot of times even if I don't make what I like to, they become residual customers and come back, then I continue to make money.
As far as a flip ski I get it for as. Cheep as possible, make it look brand new and sell it for top dollar. I mainly do 3 seaters now days. So yes when you come to me it may cost 3k for a 97 gtx. But it's all brand new and you don't have to worry about it, where that 4tec is uses and you don't know what is gonna happen with it.
As far as a flip ski I get it for as. Cheep as possible, make it look brand new and sell it for top dollar. I mainly do 3 seaters now days. So yes when you come to me it may cost 3k for a 97 gtx. But it's all brand new and you don't have to worry about it, where that 4tec is uses and you don't know what is gonna happen with it.
Jetskigoodies
Well-Known Member
We have only been flipping seadoos. We make good money doing that. We by no means advertise as a repair shop. This guy just needed some help and we had some time to help. Initially we were not going to dive in this deep. We only work on these on weekends now so we focus on quick flips.
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Jetskigoodies
Well-Known Member
purple_people_eater
New Member
Well that's one way to do it lol
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