PLEASE help engine dies and acts flooded

Note: This site contains eBay affiliate links for which SeaDooForum.com may be compensated
Status
Not open for further replies.

99seadoogtxltd

New Member
Ive already took the carbs BACK off tonight and went through them. Jets are spotless and internal fuel filters are SPOTLESS. The engine keeps bogging and cutting off. Hard to restart like its getting flooded. After a few presses of the button, it starts and I have to feather the throttle to get it back wide open then it slowly starts the whole process over. :banghead:


:banghead:I've already replaced all grey fuel lines, rebuilt carbs, cleaned fuel selector, cleaned water separator.... what else could be doing this??
 
To confirm rich or lean, does it help or aggravate the condition when the choke is applied?(ie: does it catch and begin running if you pull the choke slightly as it's dying) Do you have the accelerator pump on yours (I think you do, not sure though) and does it make it more difficult to start if you actuate the throttle to pump the accelerator a few times before cranking?

I'm trying to determine if your condition is actually too rich or too lean, often the seal on the water separator cup will allow the fuel pump to suck air and cause a lean condition.

It makes a difference (too rich/lean) so we know which corrective action to take, have to know for sure.

Was it running well at one time, was it running well at first(like in the water it was cruising alone just fine then quit) then the problem began?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
What is the pop off set at? Cover the area around the needle seat with some light oil or wd40, and put pressure to the needle and seat looking for bubbles indicating the o-ring around the seat is leaking. If its losing pressure it's either from the needle or from around the seat. When you put the diaphragms and covers back on you also need to test again and make sure the needle can hold 10psi for 30 seconds, which is what would keep it from flooding when you shut the motor off. Check your low speed needle setting also.
 
I have no idea what the pop off pressure is [MENTION=51493]Strizzo[/MENTION] , I am sorry bc I am new to this and trying to take things into my own hands. [MENTION=65307]Sportster-2001-951C-Stock[/MENTION] I dont actually think it is running lean or rich, the spark plugs look perfect. No excess oil buildup. But, I noticed that my exhaust band was completely turned around. I had a fight with the head pipe leaking. I took and siliconed both sides of the new gasket and installed it and it stopped the water leak. Upon doing some research, I just noticed the exhaust is missing the copper seal ring where the head pipe and mid pipe meet. With an exhaust leak that big, would you think this would be causing the problem?
 
Part # 274000511
I do have an accelerator pump. If I pull the choke when it dies, it will not start at all for a few minutes. It was running good then it went to shit!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
If you are talking about where the two pipe halves meet, you have to clean the outer ring, and inner "step" with either sandpaper or emory cloth. (I have 3M gasket surface pads on my angle die grinder makes it very easy) Then a thin layer of permatex oil RTV (orange stuff) then align the pipe together (normally have to loosen the upper pipe from the manifold) and tighten the band clamp. It should tighten easily and i find its easiest to pinch the clamp tight by hand. It should almost bottom out just with your hands. You should not have to force it.

However it should not cause those running issues. Does the engine cough and sputter, or sound like a Bog sound or a "wahhh" sound?
 
It sounds like either pop off is too low, or your needles are leaking, or the seat is leaking. Also if you replaced the accelerator pump lines, there is a restrictor or check valve in the feed line to the pump that needs to be in there and keeps the accelerator pump from dousing the motor every time you squeeze the throttle.

So we're clear, it's bogging out on the low end and then runs fine on the top end?

You'll want to get the exhaust clamp figured out as well since if there's any exhaust leaking inside the hull it'll change the fuel mixture and eventually choke out the motor.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
First, I think the exhaust needs to be fixed, because if it's leaking then the hull will fill with carbon monoxide. It's not good for the air:fuel mixture calibration and it's really bad for you to breath! :)

That's a self-fulfilling phenomenon, the ski gives you a headache when it's not running AND when it's running, special bonus!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Either way, its best to confirm your pop off pressure. You may have multiple problems with the ski. Its pretty easy to make a gauge and test them, do a search for building pressure tester and you should find what you need.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
A lot of people experience running problems and then finally discover their exhaust system is leaking. You well could have carb problems though, it's still possible depending on if there's still gum in the fuel system and if you got the carbs cleaned out well and back together correctly and the screws and bolts didn't come loose or the fuel lines are leaking (often the water separator cups will pop loose and start leaking), all that kind if stuff.

Maybe a small exhuast leak won't have an effect but you have to take care of that anyway, and the two problems could be related so if it runs great again after fixing the exhaust leak then you're back in the water again.

Also, make sure your oil pump cable is properly adjusted everytime after messing with the throttle cable or adjusting the idle speed, that motor always needs it's sip of oil.

I'm glad you're taking care of this stuff instead of just nursing it along in the water till it seizes up.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top