Plastic nozzle in Crank

[kicker]

Well, I got my gaskets in and the rings will be here tomorrow. Cylinders are honed and blasted ready for install.

Couple things I am not sure about. I have scraped the old gasket off the block with a razer blade but you can still see a bit of the old green gasket, but it feels relatively smooth. Is that good enough or does it need a wire brush or gasket cleaner to get the rest off so the old gasket is 100% gone?

Also before installation is there any other prep work that need to be done to the pistons or cylinders? I was going to wipe them down with a clean rag and some 2 stroke oil, is that sufficient?

 

[sselzer]

I would you Klotz premium assembly lube.

 

[gazza2010au]

lube everything and be very generous u want to lube the little end bearing,rings,pistons,cylinder sleeve on every rebuild i do i lube every internal metal part

 

[1995hx]

lube everything and be very generous u want to lube the little end bearing,rings,pistons,cylinder sleeve on every rebuild i do i lube every internal metal part

What he said lube everything I use 2 stroke oil

Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk 2

 

[kwiktsi]

2 stroke oil in a cheap spray bottle works great for lubricating parts during assembly! I have used that and engine assembly lube (the thick red stuff) and they both worked well, but I did like the 2 stroke in a sprayer for doing the crank bearings and such (not that you're going that far into it, but figured it might help someone).

 

[Robj]

Regarding the old gasket, I would get rid of all of it. No tiny bits left. Also you do not want to distort the sealing surface by getting too aggressive with the removal. I just used a razor blade.

 

[kicker]

Thanks guys, I was able to find some assembly lube and will use that. The surface is as clean as I can get with a razor blade, so I should be good to go.

 

[kicker]

I will be installing my jugs/head and need a few things cleared up.

Cylinders have been honed and I have new rings, the pistons have not been changed. I will be installing a 3 hole base gasket which was on there originally.

Is it best to assemble and torque everything down dry (no loctite, grease etc) and then double check the squish gap or do you guys do the "permanent" install right off the bat and hope your squish is good?

As far as the gaskets and O rings on the cylinders and head, the manual does not call for any lubricant or sealant, Is there something you guys use to be extra safe/anal. I would think a little synthetic grease on the O rings but that s me.

Any other tips you got would be appreciated.

 

[smc0922]

Lube everything up like its good to go. Sometimes you get lucky and your squish is good- in which case it would suck to have to pull it apart just to lube everything.

 

[kicker]

:thumbsup:Thanks, That is a good point.

I should have clarified, when I said dry I was referring to the bolts and gaskets.

 

[smc0922]

Loctite or grease the bolts as you should per the manual. Gaskets are dry. For the o-rings, I'll use a tiny bit of silicone lube or dielectric grease to make sure they seat nicely and dont get hung up or pinched.

 

[gazza2010au]

i cant remember if the cylinder and head bolts threaded sections needed to be oiled or not if not use a non seizing product for bolts so u dont have any salt seized bolts down the track

and no u dont need silicone sealant on the head rubber O rings they are plenty thick enough new they squash down as u torque down the head u can compare the new with the old since u have the engine disassembled

 

[kicker]

Thanks for the tips guys,

According to the manual the cylinders bolts get thread sealant on threads and grease on the top of the bolts, no thread locker.
The head bolts get loctite thread locker on the top of the bolt and grease on the threads.
I did miss one thing, which was the gasket maker/sealer (loctite 518) on the inner O rings of the cylinders, one of the manuals calls for the gasket maker and the other does not.

 

[Minnetonka4me]

Most of the guys around here put a little bit of anarobic gasket maker under the bolt heads, esp the crank case bolts just to make dang sure the cases are sealed.

I would put it together dry to check the squish esp since it had a 3 in there. 787 performance starts with proper squish. Get that right and you know you are getting the most out of your motor.

On the ex. gaskets use some copper gasket spray. You dont HAVE to, but I had some manifold bolts back out and it stayed sealed all except for the worst bounce. It then bogged a little giving me a warning of an issue that I was able to fix quickly and burn up the rest of the tank. Many times the mani to pipe gasket leaks out of the bottom at high pressure anyways so a little sticky stuff will cure it.

Down side is the gasket is usually junk if you have to take it apart again.

 

[kicker]

Oh baby!!! Finally got out in the water today...... buoy did it ever feel good to be out there again. This was my first of many things today, my first ride on the new to me 97 GSX, and my first test run of my first seadoo top end rebuild.

It did not disappoint, it ran smooth as silk without a hiccup. Thanks all who helped with advice and encouragement with this project, it seems you guys nailed it. Tested the compression when I got back and it was perfect 157 and 158 psi

For my first ride I kept it under 4000 rpms, we rode on and off for about 2/3 of a tank.

Do these motors need to be broken in for a top end rebuild the same length and procedure as with a complete engine rebuild?

 

[CReynoldsMIZ]

I know when I got my top end done from FullBore they said to break it in for about an hour and then your good to go.

 

[kicker]

That sounds more reasonable to me, I really cant stand the whole putter around thing. I need to do that with the GTX too, it would just make for a long boring spring of puttering if I had to break in both.

 

[racerxxx]

It's hard to not Grip n' Rip! It's even harder in a boat to break them in, 4K and your pushing a good bit of water and really working the engines.

Cool deal Kick, good job.