Plastic nozzle in Crank

[kicker]

GOT IT FINALLY
I just want to say thanks to all for the advise. In the end I did what was the right thing according to most (including me) and take the jugs off and was able to get at it, laying on the very bottom.

When I said I had it all apart I did not have the motor apart just the pipes, carbs, cables, fuel and oil lines, coolant line etc.

I will need a little advise moving forward. The jugs are off and and need to order gaskets, is it best to get OEM or is there a specific brand that should be used?

Should I spray some extra fogging oil over everything that is exposed or just use 2 stroke oil?

The compression was 160 so I think in general it was fairly healthy, is there anything else I should consider doing while I have it apart? Everything in the pictures looks normal to me, let me know if there is something anyone sees that should have some attention.

What is the best way to clean everything up, like the water cavities and jugs, should I take the carbon off the top of the pistons? Im thinking of maybe getting the jugs and heads painted while they are off.

Again thanks for the help.

 

[kicker]

As you can see there was alot of jelly like mold in the heads along with sand trapped in a couple of the cavities.

Here are some more pics. I can post more if anyone wants to check from another angle.

 

[gazza2010au]

GOT IT FINALLY
I just want to say thanks to all for the advise. In the end I did what was the right thing according to most (including me) and take the jugs off and was able to get at it, laying on the very bottom.

When I said I had it all apart I did not have the motor apart just the pipes, carbs, cables, fuel and oil lines, coolant line etc.

I will need a little advise moving forward. The jugs are off and and need to order gaskets, is it best to get OEM or is there a specific brand that should be used?

Should I spray some extra fogging oil over everything that is exposed or just use 2 stroke oil?

The compression was 160 so I think in general it was fairly healthy, is there anything else I should consider doing while I have it apart? Everything in the pictures looks normal to me, let me know if there is something anyone sees that should have some attention.

What is the best way to clean everything up, like the water cavities and jugs, should I take the carbon off the top of the pistons? Im thinking of maybe getting them painted while they are off.

Again thanks for the help.

use a wire brush to clean the salt build up off and use oven cleaner to clean the carbon off

 

[anthonygrato]

Kicker
Good job on the retrieving it. I would soak it in fogging oil while you wait for gaskets. I would use a small brass wire brush to clean the water cavities and rinse it off with clean water. Same with the carbon build up but use fogging oil to clean and rinse.
Can you take a pic of the cylinder walls the piston looks scratched but it might be the angle of the pic. Also I would replace the ring at the least. My opinion anyways.
I'm no expert!

 

[kicker]

Here are some pics of the jugs. To me they look good, there are some lines that are stained in the metal, but cant feel any difference in the texture.

 

[anthonygrato]

I would hone them but, that's me. Down here in the states they will lone you the tool at the auto part store.

 

[smc0922]

Yeah those need a polish.....

 

[gazza2010au]

I would hone them but, that's me. Down here in the states they will lone you the tool at the auto part store.

+1

give them a hone it will remove the rust as well as give u a nice cross pattern to hold oil better also the rust is from someone not winterizing the jetski

 

[LouDoo]

Yes, I agree with what you all are saying about a light hone. Also especially since your compression is a little high I would also do a squish test to be sure you use the correct base gasket. 160psi is O.K. but any higher you could overheat the engine. Most gasket sets come with three different thickness base gaskets, this will ensure you use the correct gasket.

Lou

 

[kicker]

+1

give them a hone it will remove the rust as well as give u a nice cross pattern to hold oil better also the rust is from someone not winterizing the jetski

I have a feeling that the ski/engine at one point was water logged, probably didnt get it drained and running right away.

There is only 100 hrs on the ski. There was a cooling issue at some point as well, burnt up the whole exhaust system. Not sure if the top end was done before or after it got hot.

 

[kicker]

Yes, I agree with what you all are saying about a light hone. Also especially since your compression is a little high I would also do a squish test to be sure you use the correct base gasket. 160psi is O.K. but any higher you could overheat the engine. Most gasket sets come with three different thickness base gaskets, this will ensure you use the correct gasket.

Lou

I added a couple pics of the pistons, they have the same wear lines.
i will get the jugs cleaned up and honed.

With the jugs off I wont be able to do a squish test, Is there a way of telling from the old one what was used originally. The only markings I can make out is the letter L and C4400. They are green, not sure if they color code them.

 

[racerxxx]

In between the jugs there are a pattern of holes, your is a three hole base gasket, they go on a diagonal. That measures 0.3mm thick the thinnest base gasket you can get. Has this engine been apart before? If not put a three hole gasket back on it.

 

[kicker]

From what I can tell just the top end has been apart before, seeing how compression is on the high side would it be better to put the next thickest one in?

I see the 3 wholes in the top of the block, are you saying that the amount of wholes determines the size of the base gasket from the factory?

 

[racerxxx]

Yes the 3 holes designates the thickness. You could run a 4 hole with no problems. Actually any size will work but you really want to be in the recommended "squish range" for max bang. To be honest if that engine was opened up it must have been a long time ago due to the grayness where the 3 holes are. That coloring looked just like my 96' 787 that I know for sure was never opened. I'd stick with the 3 holer, if it ran with it before it will run with it again. I'm mean your 10 psi per hole over what ideal stock is--B.F.D. run that bitch.

 

[kicker]

Ok the 3mm it is.
Any ideas of the best way to get the old gaskets off with out to much scraping? I can cover the holes in the block with a rags but some grit is sure to get in there.
Where is the best place to order the gasket set and should it be OEM or is there other good ones cheaper out there?

 

[racerxxx]

I'd get a clean rag with some acetone and wipe down the case and duct tape the openings real good. The with a straight blade and a slow steady hand you can usually get the gaskets in larger pieces. The for the small bits that would be left I stand the blade on edge and flick it back and forth and wear through them. Then get your shop vac and suck the material on the duct tape up. Yeah, yeah, I know it's near fumes, but sometimes you need to break the speed limit to get to work on time, right? Just be careful, and if you don't feel comfortable find a safer alternative. Oh yeah, it's not 3mm it's 0.3mm, big difference.

Plenty of places sell the gaskets, I'm an OEM guy for that stuff. The top end gasket set is part# 420886396 there is one on ebay for $10, BUT it has been opened and MIGHT be missing a gasket or two. Personally I'd take the gamble and the buy what ever is missing. That gasket set lists for $84 bucks, so if you could get it for $10 (plus $14 to ship it)and have them mail it to you from the US postal service you won't have to worry about all the crazy paperwork and stuff. I've shipped a few things to Canada or if you know someone close enough to the border have it sent to them and go pick it up.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cylinder-Ga..._Watercraft_Parts&hash=item4d07d97fe5&vxp=mtr

There is also another one for $60 with free shipping, they should honor the free shipping to Canada if you ask me. Every time I ship a part to Canada it is ALWAYS cheaper then shipping it 4 states away from me. For me to ship priority to Maryland is almost $7, I can put parts in Toronto for $5.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sea-Doo-RFI...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c6a82b0b7&vxp=mtr

 

[kicker]

Thanks racer, it might be tough to duct tape the opening cause the pistons are still in there, I could put newspaper around the piston and duct tape around the piston as well.

I will check into those gaskets, probably get the complete set, I hate getting started on something and have to wait another 4-5 for more parts in order to complete the task. Shipping is not a problem now, I am 10 min from the boarder and have set up a US mailing address. I was getting killed on shipping costs over the boarder, some companies just wont ship to Canada. I just drive over and bring the stuff across now.

 

[racerxxx]

I meant just tape the opening where you can see the crank. Tape around the connecting rod, then tape the case opening and then you can tape to the tape that is on the rod. I would stuff the opening with clean paper towels first.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Rick100]

Try this the next time--before you use the spray can for the first time super glue that little red bastard to the push down nozzle. Then go on ebay and check out usb cameras. Got one for under $20.00 delivered and it works ok but is not as convenient as a rigid or other bore scopes but the lap top has a nice large picture. The camera head is about the same size as the rigid.

 

[Dr Honda]

Is that surface rust in the pics of the cyls? If it is... then give them a hone. BUT... if you are going to hone them... you need new rings.


Also... looking at the piston crowns... you are running a bit on the lean side. When it goes back together... you may want to open the high screws a little. (maybe an 1/8th of a turn)


****EDIT*****

Are the carbs you are sending me for this engine?

 

[kicker]

Will do racer.

Doc, to me it looks like surface rust, I cant feel a texture change or wipe off the discolouration with my finger. I think I will take you up on your suggestion and get the rings as well. Not sure if the cylinders were bored on a previous rebuild, so I am not sure what rings I would order. I dont have a tool that will give me an accurate measurement.

You do have the carbs for this ski (787) , I have not run this ski myself yet so I cant tell you how it was running.

 

[racerxxx]

Is there any stampings in the crowns of the pistons? We should be able to back into the piston size that way.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

 

[kicker]

here are the markings.
at 12 o'oclock is Aus with an arrow, showing which way to face the piston, points to carb side.
at 3 o;clock is the number 8189
at 6 o'clock is ELKO 2096

 

[El Toro 33809]

8189 is the size. I believe it's the standard bore (81.89mm). Someone will know if that's correct.

 

[racerxxx]

Yep that an OEM standard bore piston.

Standard ring part#'s are

420815080 $22 each USD (290815080 Old #)
420815100 $40 each USD (290815100 Old #)

Here is a complete set of 4 for $90 with free shipping. Tasty, still in the OEM bags!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SEADOO-97-0..._Watercraft_Parts&hash=item2322080cf7&vxp=mtr

I bought a set with gaskets(some missing) for $70 over the summer, but $90 isn't bad for all 4 rings. That was about a minutes worth of time searching on Ebay, perhaps searching those old numbers will net you some other results.