opinion needed

[wholf09]

(97 xp)I am trying to tune my carbs and need some help. I replaced the needle valves because they would not pop off anymore and set them both to within 1 psi of each other. Also the old pop off value was around 42 psi and the new is 37 psi; which is still within the manufactures recommended range. I never touched the idle or the high speed screw just the low speed screw. When I installed the carbs and started the ski it would not stay running (Take a look at the first video and you will see what I am talking about). Next I tightened the idle screw increasing the idle and adjusted the low speed screws. It is running now and if you take a look at the second video you will see what it sounds like .The RPM tool I am using is for 2/4 cycle and I am not sure if the readings are correct, but I hooked it up to another ski I have and used what its idle value was as a base line.

My questions are.

Since the pop off value changed is that what affected the idle and is that why It was dyeing until I increased the idle?

If you can tell from the 2nd video , does the engine sound like it is running ok or does it sound like I need to adjust some more?


When adjusting the low speed screws it is hard to tell when resistance begins, to be able to set them exactly the same so what I did was count how many turns it took before I reached what I thought was some resistance (3 full turns in) and then backed off according to the manufactures recommendations (1 full turn) I then turned the second screw in 2 turns to match the other ones 2 turns. My question is does this sound like a good way to do it?


1st VIDEO

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AoOxYD5vM4U

2ND VIDEO
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LTi4-pOPGV8

Thanks for all the help.

 

[seadooya]

the needle would'nt do anything, but give a better "seat" in the housing. If you still have the original springs, put them back in. As for LSA/HSA, set each LSA to 1.75, and HSA at 0, from bottomed out, not when they start to get snug, you might be getting the o-ring hanging up on the threads.

Let the machine idle for a bit, on the hose, then rap the throttle, there should be NO hesitation nor bog, but a nice crisp response, if not, your "pop-off" is rich or lean, depending on throttle wrap. BUT, if you have oem springs, i'd put them back in.

Also, you must install the airbox/lid while testing anything...your getting a false testing without it.

 

[wholf09]

Thanks

Thanks for the response . What do you mean by 1.75? Also i did not change the springs just the needle valves because they would not pop off just bleed off. Now as for the air box i will put that back on its just so hard to adjust the screws with it on. Could you tell form the vid if the engine sounded ok?

 

[seadooya]

have no sound...:ack:

1.75 = 1&3/4 turns from bottom...stock springs, airbox back on, ski will pop right off, bud. You can get to the idle adjuster with the box on, and thats about all you need to worry about.

 

[wholf09]

pop off

Ok so the low speed screw should be 1 a 3/4 turns in .I m at 2 right now so I will change it.

Pop off question

When I was doing the pop off test the carbs worked fine as long as the diaphragm a cover was left off it would pressure up to 37 psi and then pop. What I notice though is that once I placed the cover and diaphragm back on the carb would pressure up and around 30 psi where I would hear that it was starting to bleed off pressure (the needle valve was bleeding off). Is the carb supposed to do this? I checked the valve lever on both of them and It was level. Should I lower it some more to stop this from happening, or is this what the carb is suppose e to do?

Thanks for the help.

 

[seadooya]

bottom out your LSA, then turn out 1.75, and your HSA at 0, if you didnt not mess with the springs or bend the "tangs", then re-set your adjusters, bolt the airbox up and you'll be good.