The ski idles great actually I don’t have any issues and it will usually fire right up. I have the high and low speed screws set to factory settings. And I have rebuilt the carb with OEM Mikuni parts. I have tried adjusting the low speed, screw, clockwise and counterclockwise to see if I can get the problem to change and I cannot. It will idle and then I give it throttle. It will just rev up and keep idling. And it won’t really accelerate unless I give it full throttle for a few seconds, and then it grabs and goes. Could this be a fuel problem? I bought the ski off marketplace and I’m not sure how old the gas is. I do have the gray OEM fuel lines and I plan to replace them, but I feel as if this problem is not related to that.
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1997 GS idles, when given throttle revs, hesitates, and takes a few seconds at full throttle to then accelerate.
- Thread starter Wil6gl
- Start date
Not sure why you have posted a new thread instead of continuing with the thread from a few days ago?? But if you have spark and compression as you said you did on your other thread then you need to go through the fuel system, vacuum test the fuel filter and selector Valve, just leave the the low and high at factory settings, you won’t be able to fix this by adjusting them. It will run decent at stock settings and once you get it going mayen an 1/8 turn then. Where did you buy the carb rebuild kit from? You really should change out those fuel lines, what was your pop off? Did you follow the carb rebuild thread on this forum? It is the engine that is bogging correct? It’s not a case where the engine revs good through all throttle positions but the machine just doesn’t move very well?
Sorry, I am new to the forums. I wasn’t sure if I should post a new thread or continue old one. I have not got to pop off yet. I ordered the little handheld pump off Amazon and will be doing that. I also ordered another prebuilt carb off eBay to trust but verify my rebuild. I will get going on the fuel lines. The issue is I’ve got it in the water now and no real good way to get it out until next month. No the engine seems to be fine. It revs up through throttle positions the ski just doesn’t move forward fast at all.
No worries, just easier if you stick with the same thread so that information doesn’t have to be repeated. Oh, well, that’s a different ball game then if the motor is reving good. Sounds like you might have a a bad wear ring or bad impeller or both. Do you have a manual for this yet? If not they are available at seadoomanuals.net in the manual you will find the procedure to check the clearance between your wear ring and impeller. There are 2 methods to check it, taking the intake grate off and using long feeler gauges is the easiest. Try shining a light in and see what you can see first. If it were me, I would cancel the new carbs from eBay, you’ve rebuilt the carbs you said and I wouldn’t trust the ones from EBay to be correct, plus it doesn’t sound like fuel is your issue anyways. Did you see any green goop when you had the grey fuel lines off? How were the micro filters? Were they dirty?
Ok I will check that clearance. Any recommendations on wear ring? Do I need a solas? I do have the hard copy manual as well. There was green goop yes, I have fuel lines ordered so I’ll be working on that this weekend.
Delrin wear ring from OSD marine. You don’t need a Solas unless yours is damaged. Curious what type of fuel like you ordered?
Ok ordered thanks. I got this thought it was cool to match color
I was going to mention that, but then had decided not to, I did a little research on that fuel hose. It’s made of polypropylene which according to AI is even worse than polyurethane fuel hose. Besides possibly leaning out the machine due to leaking fittings I wouldn’t want to the expense of changing those out annually or the worry of fumes in the hull.
Ok good to know. So I pulled the jet pump out. Clearance is right around .035 on one side and near nothing on the other. Bearing seems to have a little play in it. Also should the drive shaft look like this? On a YouTube video I watched the guy had to use come alongs to take the pump off. Mine just came off wit
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I’m sorry, I’ve never had a jet pump off, but by the sounds of it you will need to rebuild the pump. I doubt there should be any play in the bearing. Was the pump full of water? Or was it oil in there? As for the clearance it should be relatively equal all the way around, I’m thinking the play in the bearing had caused it to wear this way. See what the guys say that have done it, but I would think the pump needs rebuilt, new wear ring and an alignment might be needed as well.
I would say so… check this out.
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Man, that’s terrible. I have a Tigershark as well, jet pump was full of water when I got it because someone left the bellow off of it, drained it, ran it, drained it, all good, but that’s not an option in this case.
