Old fuel. What do i do?????

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azvacs

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I just bought a 2001 Sea-Doo Utopia 185 with the 210 hp Mercury. It has not been used in about three years. I drained as much fuel out of it as i could and put fresh fuel in. It will not start. It turns over and has spark. I pulled the fuel line off the pump and it seems to be pumping fuel. Any ideas?
 
Did you clean the whole fuel system?

Dr honda is the new expert on Mercs.....I'm sure he will chime in shortly.
 
You will want to put a few table spoons of fuel into the carb to see what happens. This will help confirm a fuel issue. If it wants to run once you do that, you will have a direction to head.

Compression test are always helpful as well.

If fuel, it could be a fuel selector, carbs or internal filter that are inside the carbs, fuel lines (if the boat has Grey Tempo lines). If it does have the grey lines, then no matter what they need replaced and everything I mentioned above needs cleaned, rebuilt or replaced.
 
Yep, on what those guys said.


Joe... for whatever reason... the boats didn't get "Tempo" hoses... so that's not normally an issue. But, they could have some other kind of hoses that don't like our new fuels. Also, I don't think that boat has a fuel valve. (but I will have to look at the parts book)

AZVACS: As Joe said... a compression check is a good place to start. THat way, we will know if the engien has a chance of starting at all.

THEN:

1) The metal fitting on the bottom of the lift pump (electric fuel pump) is a filter. I would change it.

2) There should be a large spin on fuel filter. It should be changed.

3) Since you said it is the "210" engine... it's a carb engine. Since it's been sitting... they may be all gummed up, and need cleaned.



OK... when you do your compression check... if it is OK (125~135 psi) then squirt a little fuel into each sparkplug hole before putting them back in, and make sure it will start. (make sure it has oil in it)
 
I thought another member had mentioned about their fuel shut-off not working.

Something about turning the lever but the valve was staying in the off position.

I assume there is a shut-off valve but maybe not a selector valve as compared to our skis.

No clue what lines the boats got/have. Just went with it in case they did have grey lines.
 
I thought another member had mentioned about their fuel shut-off not working.

...........

No clue what lines the boats got/have. Just went with it in case they did have grey lines.


A lot of the boats used the exact valve that they used on the skis. But... around '98~'99, they stopped putting them in. I guess they decided that they boat guys no longer needed a "reserve" fuel setting, since they had +30 gal of fuel in most models. BUT... the small boats (Sportster LE, and the like) had the valve until they changed to fuel injection. So... they go up to the 2003 range.


As far as knowing what each model has.... stick around a little longer... and your head will be full of useless seadoo trivia like mine is. (LOL)
 
Update. There are no grey fuel lines.(That's good, right?) It does not have a fuel valve. Just the fuel line from the tank to the pump. It does have the metal fitting on the bottom of the lift pump attached to the motor(electric fuel pump) (the filter). I do not see a large spin on filter. It can be easily blown through but i will change it. I took the fuel line off the down stream side of the pump and it is pumping fuel. Although i am not sure how much should be coming out. I don't feel a compression check is needed because it was owned by a family member and ran fine when it was last used. I will try spraying some fuel into the carb intake and see what happens. Thanks to all for the great info. Updates to come.
 
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...... I don't feel a compression check is needed because it was owned by a family member and ran fine when it was last used. .....

While I understand what you are saying... it's silly to dismiss a VERY simple test, when the engine doesn't run. Also... unless YOU were out the last time it was run, and YOU did the winterazation... YOU don't know. In 3 years... memories fade, and people forget. Not to mention... if it wasn't "Put to bed" correctly... you could have built rust in the Cyl's... and had a ring (or rings) break, trying to wake it up. OR... the old carbon could have stuck the rings, dropping compression to the point that it wont run.


I'm not trying to be harsh... but it's the truth. And... like I said, it's an easy test, and it will rule out other issues.


With that said... if the filter is clear... then OK. The electric pump on the 210 is just a primer pump. If it's flowing at all... then it's OK. The main pump is a pulse pump, that the electric pump feeds. (the e-pump only runs while cranking) And... you are right... the carb engine didn't have the larger spin-on filter. (sorry about that)


So... at this point... if you don't want to check the compression... just pull the carbs, and clean them.
 
Now you are starting to scare me. I never thought of those issues. Dopy me. All right,all right! I'll do the compression test....

Second, I've never done carbs on this type of engine. Are they difficult?
 
They aren't too bad. Very similar to an automotive carb... or even a big ATV/Motorcycle carb. But...it does have 3.
 
Yeah i saw that. I'm sure i can handle them.

Going on vacation till next week then i will tackle it. Thanks for the info and ill check beck in after.
 
Well I'm back at it. Got the carbs off, cleaned and reinstalled. After a few cranks and a squirt of mixed fuel into them to prime them. The son of a gun fired up. HOORAY !.
I still have not done the compression check. What is the procedure on this 2 stroke?

Also, i need to find a SeaDoo Utopia, Engine mounted Oil reservoir tank cap. i discovered that the cap is cracked and since this tank is pressurized, it's leaking quite badly. Cant seem to locate one. I'm in the Phoenix area, or i'll have to order it online.
 
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There's a few threads on checking the compression... but... Plugs out... full charge on the battery... open throttle... cold engine... no extra oil in the cyl's... crank for peak pressure. (normally 3~5 revolutions)


You cap is P/N 43300A 9 and it'a bout $45. DO NOT run the engine with a cap cracked. You could starve the engine for oil, and you will pump out your main oil tank in a couple minutes if you reve up the engine. (and make a mess)

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/M... 0E433153/Oil Injection Components/parts.html
 
Thanks for the info. This engine will not turn over with the throttle open. So do i just hold it open manually?
 
You can either bypass the neutral switch... or the easier thing to do, is to use a "Remote start switch" to crank it. Basically... it's just a momentary switch that you hook to the small terminal on the solenoid to activate it.

Since the throttle cable is semi-rigid... it's not easy to "hold it open manually."
 
Please let me know where to find out about intake grates. and the procedure on changing the drive housing and stator lubricant.
Just discovered that mine has the moveable aluminum grate with 1 broken tine. :(
 
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