Oil switch over still confused

[mark younggren]

Have read up on subject for days....have decided to switch from BRP mineral oil to BRP XP-S sythetic oil.

I have read hours of post here on switching from mineral to synthetic and still ask: 2000 seadoo challenger ( actually 1999 model by serial #, but seadoo said it was called the 2000 challenger), dual rotax 85 horse engines.

Question is ; if I use a syphon to remove all the mineral oil I can from the oil inject tank, is that sufficent? Can I then just add the new syn. to the tank.....or must I drain the whole system of the minieral oil.
Can I drain all I can( as in syphon above) and then start it for just a couple minutes to get out old mineral oil from lines, etc? Then just add the new Synt. oil?

Thanks, Mark can Doo

 

[kustomkarl]

It's been said, you can go from mineral to synthetic, but not synthetic to mineral. Add your synthetic and go have fun.

Karl

 

[Chester]

:agree:
BRP's mineral oil and synthetic oil for 2-strokes are compatible with each other.

Chester

 

[100guard]

It's been said, you can go from mineral to synthetic, but not synthetic to mineral. Add your synthetic and go have fun.

Karl

Turns out I have a '98 Speedster (Don't know which one).

I have no clue what oil is in there now., but I have 4 Jugs of Amsoil Interceptor sitting in the living room dying to go into the boat.

Can I also just 'confidently' add it in whenever? or must I have the full system purged?

The boat shop said that I could do just that, but you know how n00b'ish n00bs are...second guessing experts and all hehe. Be nice.

 

[ocod]

Turns out I have a '98 Speedster (Don't know which one).

I have no clue what oil is in there now., but I have 4 Jugs of Amsoil Interceptor sitting in the living room dying to go into the boat.

Can I also just 'confidently' add it in whenever? or must I have the full system purged?

The boat shop said that I could do just that, but you know how n00b'ish n00bs are...second guessing experts and all hehe. Be nice.

your good. Checked and its API TC

 

[Gamerse]

There are some threads about oils on here. The general consensus is 717 engines and prior (think 97 and older) use mineral oils. 787 and newer (your 98+) use synthetics to keep the power valves clean. The rule of thumb is to make sure whatever you use, is NOT TC-W3 outboard ashless oil. Ashless oils contain dispersants that suspend them in fuel. Technical babble, jargin, and a three page letter later, don't use them. Just check your amsoil lable for what it is rated for. Or just tell us what "type" of oil it is, and 5-10 people on here will instantly be able to say yes or no.

Oil companies blend synthetics with mineral all the time. Hell, some even advertise it. Should you use the oil of the guy that sold you the boat with a cracked pump cone, probably not. I would just clamp the hose, unhook it from the engine, and drain it into a can. Save it for the weed eaters or something.

:cheers:
Ernest.

 

[100guard]

Nah., I know the Interceptor is rated for Seadoo's., that's why I got the preferred Cust account set-up & ordered the jugs at $15-$20 cheaper than what mineral oil goes for retail. That's not the issue.

I want to know if I should drain, or not., just mix it in.

I'm reading that mineral systems, you can add in synthetic to them.

But synthetic systems, you should purge first when reverting to Mineral. (Causes gelling?)

...Should you use the oil of the guy that sold you the boat with a cracked pump cone, probably not. I would just clamp the hose, unhook it from the engine, and drain it into a can. Save it for the weed eaters or something....

LOL...the NEW Oil that he gave me is for the jet pump., that stuff is synthetic BRP OEM.

The Amsoil is stuff I bought myself.

Ironically, my buddy (Sportser owner) went over the boat for a good 45mins with the owner, and was blown away at how clean the engines where, at how MINT the hull was., but couldn't think to check the cones to see if they were good or not. I mean, it wasn't hidden or anything. I could've avoided the seized jet pump incident. Oh well., what can you do eh?

 

[ocod]

You really cant inspect cone or pump because its behind the nozzle. It would of have to come off.
Did you not water test it. Did pump sieze on first trip out?.

Sorry for getting off topic.

NV read other post. Happened 10 hrs of use

 

[bigJake]

Nah., I know the Interceptor is rated for Seadoo's., that's why I got the preferred Cust account set-up & ordered the jugs at $15-$20 cheaper than what mineral oil goes for retail.

What are you paying for a gallon of Amsoil Interceptor? I was paying $42 at my marina but just discoverd I can get it at NAPA for $36

 

[RFoster130]

Yeah you can go from mineral to synthetic no problem. Some people say not to mix brands though. When i got my boat i had no idea what oil was in it. So i just let it get low and then filled it back up with my oil of choice.

 

[100guard]

Ocod: Water test, you mean connect hose and run for a bit? Yep-we sure did. About ELEVEN HOURS of actual boating time since purchase did that seizure occur .

BigJake: yep, that's pretty much it. Save the gas & delivered to my door. It would be a little less but I paid for the six months PrefCust which averages it out a bit. Is that in Canada at napa you pay that??? You Gotta be StateSide, I can't believe retail they'd be selling Interceptor that cheap.

RFoster130, I'm just an inch or two from the MIN level. Where the tank narrows and dips down another 2-3" below the MIN mark. I am particular and an thinking I should drain or run till an inch or so? Then top up? Or is that unnecessary and I can just top up now? I brought a funnel and two jugs today on our outing, but in 60mins of noting it prolly only dropped a half an inch?

 

[ocod]

^ water test when you bought it, did you go out in a lake and test it.
Failure happened 10 hours after use. So water test would of passed.
Just bad luck. Get to know your boat. It will save you $$$ aka (B.O.A.T)

Mark oil/gas tank and go have fun. then draw another line and time out to help calculate consumption.

 

[Gamerse]

How much did 10 hours cost if you don't mind? Where was this thing, a time capsule? I hope I can find something like that when I can afford one.

:cheers:
Ernest

p.s. I see you guys

 

[bigJake]

BigJake: yep, that's pretty much it. Save the gas & delivered to my door. It would be a little less but I paid for the six months PrefCust which averages it out a bit. Is that in Canada at napa you pay that??? You Gotta be StateSide, I can't believe retail they'd be selling Interceptor that cheap.

yes, that is in the states.

 

[100guard]

How much did 10 hours cost if you don't mind? Where was this thing, a time capsule?...

What do you mean by cost? Gas? Or how much did the repair cost me lol?

Dude who bought it used it very little if any. Totally lucked out. Except for the whole "not seeing the cracked cone" part before it caused damage hehe. And the fact that I first learned about this since November!!!!, but didn't buy it till mid July. Well worth it regardless., just too bad I didn't have it for the summer.

 

[Gamerse]

The boat silly. I don't know if I've ever seen a boat with less than 10 hours, much less one from 1998. Grats on the find.

:cheers:
Ernest

 

[100guard]

^ Ohhhhh., you got the tail end of that comment., I see now.

That was only how much time I had put on the boat SINCE PURCHASE, before the jet pump seizing. ocod wanted to know if the jet pump seizing was something that would've been detected at time of purchase or if it somehow happened afterwards...I'm guessing? IE if that cone was cracked from back then, or if it somehow 'just happened' after all those hours I had put on it myself.

I am pretty sure it had a lot more than 10hours on it TOTAL LOL. .

 

[Stevego]

Regarding oil I would say wait until really low then fill completely to top with new oil. That is what I did with mine. I was switching from Quicksilver full Synthetic to Amsoil Intercepter so likely not an issue anyways. Just felt safer waiting unitil almost empty to ensure minmal mixing.

 

[brock1]

correct guys the oil brand is what you need to watch out for when mixing......... personally i run only seadoo API-TC LOW ASH SYNTHETIC in my 787cc and i would never recommend mixing a different brand with it even if it is an API-TC low ash two stroke synthetic oil but thats just me .... in my opinion the half hour to drain the oil is worth the cost of a new engine when the oils clot from mixing them

 

[Seadoobuddy]

For those interested.
Amsoil HP Injector can be mixed with the Interceptor oil.
direct from the Amsoil "expert" at Mazza Auto parts.

 

[wildone72]

FYI. I just picked up some Mystik full synthetic from Academy Sports for 19.99.

 

[RFoster130]

FYI. I just picked up some Mystik full synthetic from Academy Sports for 19.99.

Thats the best deal out there. If i had an academy near me, i would buy that and use it.

 

[Seadoobuddy]

FYI. I just picked up some Mystik full synthetic from Academy Sports for 19.99. Thats the best deal out there. If i had an academy near me, i would buy that and use it.

What's so special about the Mystik brand of oil? I've never seen it around here in Michigan.

 

[wildone72]

It is full synthetic and a whole lot cheaper. I have seen it for other in the past.

 

[RFoster130]

What's so special about the Mystik brand of oil? I've never seen it around here in Michigan.

What makes it special is that it is API TC rated and full synthetic for under 20 bucks a gallon. Its the best price on any oil that meets the specs. Only problem is that it is hard to find.