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oil light

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96spxpos

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so, switched over to the RIGHT oil...after draining tank, blowing out RV lines, etc, took one (1) whole gallon of quicksilver and mixed about 16oz in with gas, and now i have about less than half a gallon in the jug, so i'm estimating i poured about close to the other 1/2 gallon into the oil tank...
on my first ride out since changing the oil AND manually adjusting the trim all the way up, the ride was INSANELY bumpy, and the oil light would flash on, or completely stay on for about 10-20 seconds at a time, til i was planed out and riding smooth..
so, question is, from an EMPTY tank, how much oil is required in the oil tank to keep the light off permanently?
I don't really wanna fill the tank to the top, considering i am premixing.
I've heard other people on here telling people that when going to premix, they should only need about a quart or so of oil in the tank for the RV..that would make their oil light stay on if they dont short it out, right?
 
I just fill mine, but I don't run premix. If you are running premix, why not remove the pump? or is yours not a 951? Rotory Valve... not Recreational Vehicle.. OK...

Anyway, if your not going to fill it high enough to shut off, you could just disable it... a simple short on it should make the light go out.

unplug the sensor and just jump the wires, and see if that shuts off the light. if it does, you could do a hack job, or find the sensor side connector and wire up just a jumper for it...
 
I'm not sure I understand what you are doing. If you are going to mix the oil with the gas you don't need the injector pump anymore. You need to block off the oil pump and cap off the injector lines. Leave some oil in the tank to drip lubricate the rotary valve gear. You can just disconnect the oil level switch, just pull the connector at the switch. Lubricating the rotary valve gear doesn't use any oil, it just returns to the tank. From what you're saying I'm thinking you have too much oil mixed with the gas. Take a look at your spark plugs see it they are oil fouled.

Personally I would keep the oil injection system.

If you are keeping the oil injection system then you need at least a half tank of injector oil, I keep mine between at least half full probably closer to 3/4 to full.

Lou
 
yea, im running premix..on my 717 we hafta keep the oil tank for the Rotary Valve to get lubed...which isn't a whole lot of oil needed, hence the reason most ppl only keep a quart or so in the tank...i dont wanna short any wires cuz i have horrible luck with electrical...my luck, it'll blow the mpem... but at the same time i dont want that scary red light on my dash blinking or staying on...
 
lou, i am on premix, pump is blocked off, etc...sorry if i confused things...
put it this way, i bought a gallon of quicksilver to mix with my gas and i also put some in my oil tank to "lube the rotary valve", i know it doesnt use any oil and only returns to the tank, but i figured with my luck i'd keep a lil extra in the oil tank incase any seals or gaskets or whatever on the RV leak... but since i didnt short the wire, my oil light blinks or stays on for a bit when i hit a bump...
so i'm just wondering how much oil needs to be in that tank to make the oil light go off? cuz as of right now, theres close to half a gallon in there, and its still coming on when i hit a bump.
 
i did away with the oil injection system bc the spring and linkage down there is loose, corroded, etc...when i hit the throttle, it had barely no response, and when it did, it wouldnt go back all the way sometimes...so i did away with it.
 
You can just hook the two RV lines together (leave a little air gap 1-2"), then place a 10k resistor on the two oil wires to turn the light off and leave the tank empty.
 
No wonder. All my lights are on
Feels kinda like this :p

imp08warninglights2.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
^nice pic
Only think on looping is no reserve if it leaks or passes through seals.
Either way requires you look at it every now and then.
 
I'm pretty sure all you need to do is unplug the connector on the oil level switch, I think shorting the wires will cause the light to come on, or you could just add more oil, my light comes on at about 1/2 tank.

Lou
 
I'm pretty sure all you need to do is unplug the connector on the oil level switch, I think shorting the wires will cause the light to come on, or you could just add more oil, my light comes on at about 1/2 tank.

Lou

As always Lou :)
Most logical and easiest solution to simple fix

Hows that trailer??
Sold mine day or two after.
 
ok, that's what i needed to know...so about a half tank or so should keep the light off...
off hand, does anyone know the size of the oil tank? like how many quarts/gallons it holds from empty?
just wondering cuz i might need to go buy more oil...
also, has anyone used the "amsoil" injector/high performance oil?
there ACTUALLY is a guy down here that sells it...he's only like 30 min from here(that's considered close)...and the price seems a little fair a $8.99 a quart..
 
these are the two he sells

the injector oil looks like it could be used, not sure bout the "dominator"imagesCAMJHL52.jpgimagesCA3GFH04.jpg
 
ok, that's what i needed to know...so about a half tank or so should keep the light off...
off hand, does anyone know the size of the oil tank? like how many quarts/gallons it holds from empty?
just wondering cuz i might need to go buy more oil...
also, has anyone used the "amsoil" injector/high performance oil?
there ACTUALLY is a guy down here that sells it...he's only like 30 min from here(that's considered close)...and the price seems a little fair a $8.99 a quart..

YEP just a little.
figure a gallon is 28
 
If you use Amsoil be sure that it is certified API-TC, there is an Amsoil that has both certifications, API-TC, and TCW3, it's the interceptor I believe, if it has both certifications don't use it.

Lou
 
Yup, :agree: with Lou. I was using the Injector but was told to use the Interceptor now...a bit more costly but it's better for the Seadoo engines.
 
SDB, Lou just said NOT to use the INTERCEPTOR...so although you were "told" to use it, I hope you're not...

BTW, added a lil bit more oil to the tank, and it got really rough out on the water later in the day, and oil light NEVER came on..thanks guys!
 
SDB, Lou just said NOT to use the INTERCEPTOR...so although you were "told" to use it, I hope you're not...

BTW, added a lil bit more oil to the tank, and it got really rough out on the water later in the day, and oil light NEVER came on..thanks guys!

success !!!

Doing my engine break in hopefully tomorrow.
 
96 - The HP Injector has both ratings (API-TC and TC-W3. The Interceptor has API-TC and JASO FC ratings. The following is straight from Amsoil website.

INTERCEPTOR™ High Performance Synthetic 2-Cycle Oil (AIT)
A high-performance two-cycle oil with a performance emphasis on exhaust power valves. Excellent for all types of snowmobiles, motorcycles, personal watercraft, ATVs and jet boats. Contains high levels of detergent additives to prevent valve sticking. High quality replacement for manufacturer branded oils. Injector use or 50:1 premix. JASO FC, API TC


HP Injector Synthetic 2-Cycle Oil (HPI)
Excellent for all outboard motors with a performance emphasis on modern direct fuel injected (DFI) technology. Also recommended for personal watercraft, jet boats, motorcycles, snowmobiles and ATVs. Injector use or 50:1 premix.
NMMA TC-W3, API TC
 
ok.
was just going off of what lou said..
"there is an Amsoil that has both certifications, API-TC, and TCW3, it's the interceptor I believe, if it has both certifications don't use it."
 
The injector is the oil not to use the interceptor is O.K., sorry about the mixup, I was confused as usual.

Lou
 
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