Oil injection cable

[wutagoalie]

Here's the scoop.

I cleaned my Carbs and changed all my old gray fuel lines, just put everything back together. I noticed that on the carbs, there is a small wheel what the throttle cable attaches to as well as the oil injection cable (i think) attaches to the same wheel.

For some reason, the oil injection cable stays loose after i press on the throttle ( this is when the engine is not running) This cable does not tighten back up? Its remains with slack!

What would cause this?

 

[onebadcav00]

there is an adjustment on that. you dont want it loose at all.

 

[wutagoalie]

there is an adjustment on that. you dont want it loose at all.

How would i go about adjusting it?

Ive been trying to search on google and another post said something abot a spring that may have came off?

 

[Dr Honda]

You need a service manual. If that cable isn't set up poperly... you could kill your engine. It controls how much oil the injector sends to the engine.

 

[wutagoalie]

You need a service manual. If that cable isn't set up poperly... you could kill your engine. It controls how much oil the injector sends to the engine.

is there a spring that controls the tension of that cable?

 

[seadooya]

when you pulledthe carbs off to clean them, the cable released, causing the oil pump to rotate all the way. You need to remove the cable from the "wheel" on the carb, then "preload" the pump arm on the oil injection, while pulling on the cable. Now, with cable stretched, re-hook back onto the "wheel" off the carb.

 

[wutagoalie]

when you pulledthe carbs off to clean them, the cable released, causing the oil pump to rotate all the way. You need to remove the cable from the "wheel" on the carb, then "preload" the pump arm on the oil injection, while pulling on the cable. Now, with cable stretched, re-hook back onto the "wheel" off the carb.

That makes more sense! What way do i have to spin the pump pre load arm? and how many times should i spin it, 1 rotation?

 

[seadooya]

to the left...one rotation should work. Use a mirror and flashlight so yuo can see the markings on both arm and pump..

 

[wutagoalie]

to the left...one rotation should work. Use a mirror and flashlight so yuo can see the markings on both arm and pump..

i will give it a shot tomorrow. what i don't understand is how it rotated with the cable still attached to it?

 

[seadooya]

you took the cable from the wheel, off the carb

 

[wutagoalie]

you took the cable from the wheel, off the carb

I will try and get it back together, 1 rotation counter clockwise and match up the markings. I had pre counted the threads on the lock nuts before i removed the cable from the carbs, so i will put those back the way they were.

:cheers:

 

[wutagoalie]

Now that i think about it, does the oil injection arm have to be reloaded by going counter clockwise or clockwise?

 

[Bills86e]

Counter clockwise.
OIL PUMP LEVER SPRING
The spring has a curl catch on the mid of the lever. the lever turns from 9 o'clock
and you should feel more pressure as you turn it to 6, then 3 o'clock, even tho
without the spring it will 360*. The oil throttle cable alignment marks at carb idle
is lever at 5:30, just adjust the nut. At 3 o'clock is a lug with the alignment mark
to align the lever and that lug is what the springs lower curl catches under.

All two strokes tend to collect oil in the bottom of the cases, in the little nooks and crannies that are not subject to the flow of the air/fuel mixture.

 

[wutagoalie]

Counter clockwise.
OIL PUMP LEVER SPRING
The spring has a curl catch on the mid of the lever. the lever turns from 9 o'clock
and you should feel more pressure as you turn it to 6, then 3 o'clock, even tho
without the spring it will 360*. The oil throttle cable alignment marks at carb idle
is lever at 5:30, just adjust the nut. At 3 o'clock is a lug with the alignment mark
to align the lever and that lug is what the springs lower curl catches under.

All two strokes tend to collect oil in the bottom of the cases, in the little nooks and crannies that are not subject to the flow of the air/fuel mixture.

I was able to spin the lever, but there is no tension? i see the spring on there, but it might not be on there properly. Its almost impossible to get at. It seems like the only proper way to be able to work on this is to remove The black head pipe from the cooling system, is this correct?

 

[seadooya]

dont/wont wanna remove the pipe. You'll need to remove the carbs first, to get to the rear nut. Remove the aibox assy, reach around, undo the cable(oil) from carb, then pull on it, its possible that pulling, but not hard, will undo its self, and "load" the spring accordingly...

remove the aibox assy, then you got access to the 2-screws on the carb, that hold the cables' assy plate...

 

[wutagoalie]

dont/wont wanna remove the pipe. You'll need to remove the carbs first, to get to the rear nut. Remove the aibox assy, reach around, undo the cable(oil) from carb, then pull on it, its possible that pulling, but not hard, will undo its self, and "load" the spring accordingly...

remove the aibox assy, then you got access to the 2-screws on the carb, that hold the cables' assy plate...

I had to cave in and dropped it off at my local repair guy, even by removing the carbs, its very hard to reach around there unless you have a set of twigs for arms. When you have a set of Hulk Hogan guns like me , its impossible :rofl:

I think the spring on the lever dislodged, so i did not want to take any chances of starving the engine of oil. He said it would take him half an hour to to set up my oil pump , I played it safe!

 

[Bills86e]

Yeah....5 minutes doing the work......25 minutes writeing up the bill.

 

[wutagoalie]

Yeah....5 minutes doing the work......25 minutes writeing up the bill.

in the future, what is the best way to remove the carbs, and not lose the tension of the injection cable?

 

[seadooya]

undo the cables from the "wheel", then remove the 2-screws going into the side body of the carb, that holds the plate, that the cables are attached to. But you need to removethe airbox lid/ducting, first..

 

[wutagoalie]

undo the cables from the "wheel", then remove the 2-screws going into the side body of the carb, that holds the plate, that the cables are attached to. But you need to removethe airbox lid/ducting, first..

Nice! great idea. Then i dont have to find the adjustment for the throttle and oil injection, they remain the same.

Thanks

:cheers: