Oil injection bypass
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challenger01
Member
Can anybody give me some advice on removal of the oil pump. I can't seen to gain access to the second bolt , the one on the left to the back. It seems like it's 8mm, but it is difficult for me to get access to it.
?
Do I need to remove the bolt holding the throttle linkage first?
How is the throttle link supposed to be removed
Thanks
?
Do I need to remove the bolt holding the throttle linkage first?
How is the throttle link supposed to be removed
Thanks
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challenger01
Member
I know that I am not the most mechanical when it comes to engine work, but I really feel like a total failure after today.
I could not find any way to remove the back 8mm bolt, but if I remove the ball joint connection to the throttle connection will that provide some access? Is a small standard 8mm wrench all that I need? Based on the front bolt it won't take too much to get it to the point where I can remove it with finger pressure.
Would you suggest that the throttle link be removed first?
I was approaching the setup with caution, figuring that I could continue to run with injection if I am not able to remove the pump. I am not giving up, but I need to rethink the process and make sure I have the correct sequence.
Any additional help / feedback is appreciated.
Thanks,
Brian
I could not find any way to remove the back 8mm bolt, but if I remove the ball joint connection to the throttle connection will that provide some access? Is a small standard 8mm wrench all that I need? Based on the front bolt it won't take too much to get it to the point where I can remove it with finger pressure.
Would you suggest that the throttle link be removed first?
I was approaching the setup with caution, figuring that I could continue to run with injection if I am not able to remove the pump. I am not giving up, but I need to rethink the process and make sure I have the correct sequence.
Any additional help / feedback is appreciated.
Thanks,
Brian
buckeye_paul
New Member
I don't remember having any issues with getting the old pump off. If you can't get a socket in there could you use an open end wrench? Good Luck!
challenger01
Member
I tried with the wrench, but I did not have all of the hoses and throttle link removed. If weather permits I will try again today. Do you remember if you removed all oil lines to the pump and throttle link first?
I guess I was concerned that I would not be able to reach the back bolt so I wanted to maintain it in a way that if I failed I could still use the injection system until I had another shot at it.
Thanks again
I guess I was concerned that I would not be able to reach the back bolt so I wanted to maintain it in a way that if I failed I could still use the injection system until I had another shot at it.
Thanks again
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
I think last time I tried to play with a pump on the engine.... I used an open ended wrench to get to that bolt. Most wrenches are angled, so if you flip it, it will sit at a different angle. So... you may nave to make a very small movement, then flip... then turn the bolt a little more... then flip....... and so on.
It may be easier with the hoses and link off. BUT... my boat is still covered, so I can't go look.
*****EDIT******
I'm not 100% sure what I'm going to be up to, tonight... but if you PM your address... I may be able to lend a hand.
It may be easier with the hoses and link off. BUT... my boat is still covered, so I can't go look.
*****EDIT******
I'm not 100% sure what I'm going to be up to, tonight... but if you PM your address... I may be able to lend a hand.
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LOL, Tony you are going to get a hundred PMs with addresses on them. 
challenger01
Member
I think I am done with the oil bypass.
First off I really need to thank everyone for their input, especially Dr. Honda. I did not have him come over and give me a hand, but what a great guy to offer with all the things he has going on. I know you are all jealous that I live near him!!!
I have been considering this change for over a year, and I must admit that I was intimidated by the job. It was not as easy for me as it seemed for the others, but I am sure that if I had to do it again it would go much smoother. I hated the feeling of failure so I went back at it today after work.
A couple of points for anyone attempting this job...
1. The back bolt for the oil pump is difficult to access. It could have been the positioning of the fuel lines and my inability to get a direct shot at it, but I did eventually get it off with an 8mm socket. After it was removed I left the hoses in position and plugged with bolts, and disconnected the throttle link. (Do I need to do anything with the link on the lower end?)
2. You need to loosen the unit with the vapor separator in order to remove the metal drive gear and replace it with the blockoff plug. This requires an allen wrench (don't recall the size) and it was a challenge to acces at least 1 of the 3 bolts. I had to lift up the engine oil reservoir to gain access.
3. When you put the blockoff plug in it seemed to fit in with no issue (O - ring included), but I must have had it in the opposite direction, because my screws were off. I turned it 180 degrees and the screws lined up so I must be ok.
4. I removed the bottom hose (found below the water separator filter) without issue and replaced it with the brass plug which took 1/4" allen key.
5. I removed the screw on the vapor separator unit (maybe I am saying the wrong part, but this is silver and infront of the oil injection pump), and drained all fuel out of this area.
6. I always drain my water separator filter at the end of the season, but I added some oil to a 50:1 fuel mix directly into the filter.
7. I had nearly 40 gallons of stabilized fuel in the tank, so I mixed the appropriate amount of oil to make 50:1 for 40 gallons in 4 5-gallon tanks. I siphoned approximately 20 gallons of fuel, mixed and dumped back into the tank.
8. It got dark, so I need to do the adjustment to the oil alarm with the hose holding the float up, so it does not sound. My question is, if I leave the oil I have in the engine oil reservoir, will it keep the alarm from sounding?
I did not attempt to start the boat today. I will give it a few days.
If I missed anything or need to do anything else, please let me know.
Thanks again,
Brian
First off I really need to thank everyone for their input, especially Dr. Honda. I did not have him come over and give me a hand, but what a great guy to offer with all the things he has going on. I know you are all jealous that I live near him!!!
I have been considering this change for over a year, and I must admit that I was intimidated by the job. It was not as easy for me as it seemed for the others, but I am sure that if I had to do it again it would go much smoother. I hated the feeling of failure so I went back at it today after work.
A couple of points for anyone attempting this job...
1. The back bolt for the oil pump is difficult to access. It could have been the positioning of the fuel lines and my inability to get a direct shot at it, but I did eventually get it off with an 8mm socket. After it was removed I left the hoses in position and plugged with bolts, and disconnected the throttle link. (Do I need to do anything with the link on the lower end?)
2. You need to loosen the unit with the vapor separator in order to remove the metal drive gear and replace it with the blockoff plug. This requires an allen wrench (don't recall the size) and it was a challenge to acces at least 1 of the 3 bolts. I had to lift up the engine oil reservoir to gain access.
3. When you put the blockoff plug in it seemed to fit in with no issue (O - ring included), but I must have had it in the opposite direction, because my screws were off. I turned it 180 degrees and the screws lined up so I must be ok.
4. I removed the bottom hose (found below the water separator filter) without issue and replaced it with the brass plug which took 1/4" allen key.
5. I removed the screw on the vapor separator unit (maybe I am saying the wrong part, but this is silver and infront of the oil injection pump), and drained all fuel out of this area.
6. I always drain my water separator filter at the end of the season, but I added some oil to a 50:1 fuel mix directly into the filter.
7. I had nearly 40 gallons of stabilized fuel in the tank, so I mixed the appropriate amount of oil to make 50:1 for 40 gallons in 4 5-gallon tanks. I siphoned approximately 20 gallons of fuel, mixed and dumped back into the tank.
8. It got dark, so I need to do the adjustment to the oil alarm with the hose holding the float up, so it does not sound. My question is, if I leave the oil I have in the engine oil reservoir, will it keep the alarm from sounding?
I did not attempt to start the boat today. I will give it a few days.
If I missed anything or need to do anything else, please let me know.
Thanks again,
Brian
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
Congrats... Sounds like you did good.
OK....
1) Just remove the rod from the throttle body. The cup will pop off, just like at the pump. Give it a twist, and it should come off.
8) You can leave the oil in the tank... but you can just short the wires together too.
Sounds like you have it all covered. Personally... I'd put a little extra oil in the filter. (not just 50:1) that will get you past the start up. Also... I would start it, and let it run for 10~15 seconds, and let it cool. Then, repeat 2 or 3 times. That will assure that all the "Raw" fuel that may be in the feed hose, will come thought, before you take it out for a ride.
If you want to be extra safe... during the cooling time... you could spin the filter off again, and pour a little more oil in it.
OK....
1) Just remove the rod from the throttle body. The cup will pop off, just like at the pump. Give it a twist, and it should come off.
8) You can leave the oil in the tank... but you can just short the wires together too.
Sounds like you have it all covered. Personally... I'd put a little extra oil in the filter. (not just 50:1) that will get you past the start up. Also... I would start it, and let it run for 10~15 seconds, and let it cool. Then, repeat 2 or 3 times. That will assure that all the "Raw" fuel that may be in the feed hose, will come thought, before you take it out for a ride.
If you want to be extra safe... during the cooling time... you could spin the filter off again, and pour a little more oil in it.
challenger01
Member
I forgot to mention that I did pour some Quicksilver Premium plus directly into the filter.
I will follow your advice and do a few short starts before letting it run.
I look forward to meeting up sometime to run the boats.
Thanks again,
Brian
I will follow your advice and do a few short starts before letting it run.
I look forward to meeting up sometime to run the boats.
Thanks again,
Brian
buckeye_paul
New Member
If you leave any oil in either of the tanks, be sure that the hoses are plugged and sealed in a suitable way. Otherwise you're going to have a mess.
challenger01
Member
Thanks for the advice. I am probably going to make a modification like you did to keep the float in the "full position" so the sensor will not sound.
I didn't get a chance to look at that part, but I was going to stop at the hardware store on the way home. What type/size of hose did you end up using?
Thanks.
I didn't get a chance to look at that part, but I was going to stop at the hardware store on the way home. What type/size of hose did you end up using?
Thanks.
buckeye_paul
New Member
I had a piece of tubing from some other project. I don't remember what size. It's the clear tygon type. They sell it at Lowe's.
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challenger01
Member
I had a chance to run my boat for a few hours this weekend with the oil injection bypass. It definitely smoked pretty well at startup. After I got out of the no wake zone it ran really well with no real noticable smell when running fast. Later in the day as I passed through a no wake zone and idled around it did not seem too bad. I have not changed my port side temperature sensor, but that may be on my to do list if it will help with smoking and more efficient gas consumption.
Overall I only used about a 1/4 tank since it was cold out and windy, but I enjoyed the day without worrying about an oil failure.
Hopefully I extend the life of my engine. Thanks for all the help.
Overall I only used about a 1/4 tank since it was cold out and windy, but I enjoyed the day without worrying about an oil failure.
Hopefully I extend the life of my engine. Thanks for all the help.
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challenger01
Member
I had my wife and 2 kids along with my brother in law and his family. Boat ran real well with 8 on board.
We went to the Yough Dam. it was beautiful out but a bit cold for the kids.
Do you find the Penzoil you use in the Mercury at the Irwin Wal Mart? I was at the West Mifflin store yesterday with no success.
Hope all goes well with your boat and maybe we can meet up this boating season.
We went to the Yough Dam. it was beautiful out but a bit cold for the kids.
Do you find the Penzoil you use in the Mercury at the Irwin Wal Mart? I was at the West Mifflin store yesterday with no success.
Hope all goes well with your boat and maybe we can meet up this boating season.
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
I'm sure we will... :cheers:
Yes... you can get the Pennzoil semi-synth (XLF) at the Irwin wal-mart. Latrobe also has it.
The wal-mart out on 22 kind of sucks. About 2 years ago... they dumped the boat section, and the guns. There is still a little there, but it's just the minimums.
Yes... you can get the Pennzoil semi-synth (XLF) at the Irwin wal-mart. Latrobe also has it.
The wal-mart out on 22 kind of sucks. About 2 years ago... they dumped the boat section, and the guns. There is still a little there, but it's just the minimums.
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SeptemberC
Active Member
Thank you.
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igneous
Active Member
Started doing the premix this past weekend. When I syphoned out all the old gas and started running pure gas, I took a black sharpie when I filled up and marked 10 gal increments on the tank. Then I went back and eyeballed 5 gal. marks. Make sure you do this on a level surface and you'll always know damn close how much gas you have. Sat. am I put ~104 oz of oil in tank and went to my 0 ethanol store up the road about 20 miles and filled it up to top. On the way home I stopped off at the lake and backed the boat in and ran it for about 10 min. Now I just need to remove pump/shaft and plug lines since I have all the parts to finish. I'll try to take my time and get pics and maybe do a video if possible. Thanks for all the instructions on this thread.
welbytrise
New Member
Hello all! This for sure seems like a good idea bypassing the oil injection system. My question is, is there any way of knowing if and when the oil injection system has failed or is going to fail?
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
Going to fail??? .... No
Has failed?? ... Yes. The engine seizes up.
That's where the problem lies. My engine (from a 2002 boat) failed... but it wasn't because of the typical oil issue. When I did the rebuild... the gear looked perfect.
On the older Outboard versions of the 2.5l Merc... they had a sensor on the oil pump, and if it stopped spinning... you had about 5~10 seconds to get it shut off. But, on the SportJet engines... they took off the sensor.
I normally like oil injection... and during my rebuild, I put in the new style (stronger) gear... and I'm using it. But... if you have an older engine... I recomend removing the pump, and going pre-mix
*****EDIT******
Actually... you have a 2004 boat. It's highly unlikely you have the regular oil pump. Your engine should have the electric pump. I haven't heard of one of them failing yet. But.. post your engine S/N, and we can tell you.
Has failed?? ... Yes. The engine seizes up.
That's where the problem lies. My engine (from a 2002 boat) failed... but it wasn't because of the typical oil issue. When I did the rebuild... the gear looked perfect.
On the older Outboard versions of the 2.5l Merc... they had a sensor on the oil pump, and if it stopped spinning... you had about 5~10 seconds to get it shut off. But, on the SportJet engines... they took off the sensor.
I normally like oil injection... and during my rebuild, I put in the new style (stronger) gear... and I'm using it. But... if you have an older engine... I recomend removing the pump, and going pre-mix
*****EDIT******
Actually... you have a 2004 boat. It's highly unlikely you have the regular oil pump. Your engine should have the electric pump. I haven't heard of one of them failing yet. But.. post your engine S/N, and we can tell you.
welbytrise
New Member
Geez that stinks...I noticed after reading through the posts that merc was supposed to have upgraded the part. My challenger is a 2004... doesnt mean the merc is a 2004 model though. So I guess I will have to go premix even though I really dont want to.
welbytrise
New Member
and after posting that I noticed the last part of your reply....my s/n is. XXXXXXXX
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