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oil in crank case; suspected
- Thread starter rpauti
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Which engine model are you referring to, and are you inquiring specifically about the balance shaft lubricant or is this a four stroke engine?
If it's a rotary valve type Rotax engine, you might be ab;e to suck the balance shaft oil from the cavity using a draw tube but it's hard to get it all, is my understanding, and some of them have inaccessible drain plugs on them underneath, too. But, my understanding is, the cavity is open to the PTO end of the crankcase, so eventually whatever oil is in the cavity eventually is diluted and "replaced" by 2 stroke oil. So, unless the engine is water flooded there should be no "lasting" benefit to changing the balance shaft oil. If the PTO crankcase are is water flooded than some say it's a good idea to try getting that water out by some means or to run the engine long enough for all the water to be flushed out by the pulsating action of the reciprocating assembly, so that the contaminated oil doesn't intrude into and begin causing corrosion of the bearing surfaces.
That's about the extent of my knowledge, except to say that if there is a water-flooded recovery process then it's probably well explained in the shop manual for the particular engine.
If it's a rotary valve type Rotax engine, you might be ab;e to suck the balance shaft oil from the cavity using a draw tube but it's hard to get it all, is my understanding, and some of them have inaccessible drain plugs on them underneath, too. But, my understanding is, the cavity is open to the PTO end of the crankcase, so eventually whatever oil is in the cavity eventually is diluted and "replaced" by 2 stroke oil. So, unless the engine is water flooded there should be no "lasting" benefit to changing the balance shaft oil. If the PTO crankcase are is water flooded than some say it's a good idea to try getting that water out by some means or to run the engine long enough for all the water to be flushed out by the pulsating action of the reciprocating assembly, so that the contaminated oil doesn't intrude into and begin causing corrosion of the bearing surfaces.
That's about the extent of my knowledge, except to say that if there is a water-flooded recovery process then it's probably well explained in the shop manual for the particular engine.
I have a 787 xp . read a few post on hydro locking. ski hasn't seen water for a year. read that if crank seals leak it could fill crank case with oil and make it hard to start. just wondering how to get that oil out. tried everything electrical possible turns over with plugs out. put them in and it is like there is a tight spot. marked the shaft and happens in same spot; engine won't turn over. Changed starter, new battery, ohmed cables, 12v at starter when trying to start, new solenoid. not electrical....can sometimes...not always get it to turn over with battery charger on boost and even fire up by squirting gas into carb.....runs for 1 sec. puzzled......thinking bad bearing.....just trying all options before I pull engine..... thanks
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Yes, it's hard to start and engine if it won't crank, that's for sure. These things need a rope pulley on the PTO or something.
First of all though, connecting any kind of external battery charger to you ski is risking overvoltage damage to the MPEM, I would suggest a good strong battery for troubleshooting purposes, like one from a car, capable of 500cca or more. This will save your expensive miniature ski battery from being roasted by repeated cranking attempts, but doesn't give you license to crank continuously b/c too much cranking will eventually overheat your starter. At least you will be kind to your little battery and the starter as well, the higher current should help it spin, thus not stall and smoke.
So, I'd try that first, another option for getting that 2-stroke oil out might be turning the ski upside down but I don't think anyone has reported a problem where the engine hydrolocks from excessive oil in the crank case.
Yeah, that should be enough to spin the motor but I'd rather know it was pure DC from a good srtong battery as opposed to full wave rectified DC from a boost charger. Have you tried putting a small amount of oil in the cylinders, just to reduce the friction there slightly? They could be dry from sitting a long period.
Also, don't forget about your jet pump, the bearing in there could be rusted and tight, adding friction the the rotating assembly.
Could just be a cheap starter as well, the are many recommendations to obtain an OEM starter, or rebuild the OEM starter that came on the ski, supposedly there are some crummy aftermarket starters floating around out there.
If there's oil in the rear (PTO) half of the crankcase, you might be able to disconnect the fuel pump pulse hose and suck(or blow by cranking engine) it out from there, at least that would remove some of the oil from the one side of the crankcase.
Maybe someone who's actually run into this will chime in.....
thanks for advice....I'll order new starter from SBT....checking jet pump bearing; atleast lube up..I did grease the bearings with the alimites. I will check and see if oil in the fuel pump pulse cavity. I will go with new starter from SBT, a new battery, and a car battery for trouble shooting......thanks for the best advice so far.....
I don't think SBT sells OEM starters. They may have one of the better aftermarket brands. That said, when it comes to starters there is nothing like an OEM. Hands down.
If yours is an OEM i would rebuild it. Used OEM is still better than an aftermarket.
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