Oil Filter change

Note: This site contains eBay affiliate links for which SeaDooForum.com may be compensated
Status
Not open for further replies.

JBoss

Active Member
Is it necessary to bleed the oil pump after changing the filter?

I’m thinking maybe if I clamp either end of the filter, remove old and install new, then loosen tank side clamp to allow filter to fill with oil and then reconnect the lines and remove the clamps it should eliminate/minimize any air bubbles in the line?

Or bad idea?

Thanks in advance for anyone’s help
 
Is it necessary to bleed the oil pump after changing the filter?

I’m thinking maybe if I clamp either end of the filter, remove old and install new, then loosen tank side clamp to allow filter to fill with oil and then reconnect the lines and remove the clamps it should eliminate/minimize any air bubbles in the line?

Or bad idea?

Thanks in advance for anyone’s help
Just curious - did you resolve this? I need to change my filters soon and will face the same questions.
 
Just curious - did you resolve this? I need to change my filters soon and will face the same questions.

I ended up having to take the carbs off to do some other work so getting at the bleeder screw was easy. After it was bled I noticed air pockets in the filters and got rid of them by raising the line coming from the take and chasing the air back into the reservoir. When I change them in the future I think I’ll just do that. As long as your clamp on the engine side of the line doesn’t leak and no air makes it to the oil pump I feel it should be fine.
 
I ended up having to take the carbs off to do some other work so getting at the bleeder screw was easy. After it was bled I noticed air pockets in the filters and got rid of them by raising the line coming from the take and chasing the air back into the reservoir. When I change them in the future I think I’ll just do that. As long as your clamp on the engine side of the line doesn’t leak and no air makes it to the oil pump I feel it should be fine.
Excellent, thanks for the tip. I've just ordered my filters and will report back how it goes.

I also need to replace a leaking oil vent check valve. I usually store my boat in my garage but this year I'm leaving it outside and covered during these few weeks of peak boating season. This is causing a much larger temperature cycling and this in turn is pumping oil out of the reservoir through the check valve.
 
Even with a new check valve, don't fill your tank up so much. The check valve should never be under oil.
 
Even with a new check valve, don't fill your tank up so much. The check valve should never be under oil.
My check valve is mounted well above the reservoir tank, but the hose coming off the reservoir and going to the valve is under the "MAX" fill level. Every time pressure develops in the tank (from heating during the day), more oil is pushed out. When it cools at night, air is sucked in. The cycle repeats daily. The check valve should be able to hold back the small pressure involved.
 
Today I installed a new check valve and an oil filter. The old check valve seemed fine. I could blow easily into the white side but not the black side. The new one is aluminum, larger, and there was a little more resistant to flow. Because the old one had clearly leaked, I went ahead and replaced it. Fingers crossed.

With the filter, after a while of standing on my head in the engine compartment, I realized there were not two filters as shown in the shop manual, just one before the T to the two engines. Makes sense. I placed a hemostat just above the filter and snipped the cable tie. I couldn’t pull the 8mm hose off and I was concerned I may have nicked it, so just cut it to get the filter free. I shoved the new filter into the clamped line. The far end of the filter came off ok without cutting.

I opened the hemostat and filled the filter with oil and then tried to jam it into the hose below with as little mess as possible. It wasn’t too bad but I probably spilled a tablespoon or so while fumbling. Did I mention standing on my head?

Two cable ties later and the job is done. I freed my lower tubing from its harness and this will make the next filter change much easier. I also plan to get a longer piece of 8mm tubing to run down from the filter to the T. This will allow pulling the filter up for easier access.

Tomorrow I’m putting on new LED trailer lights with new wiring. Should be good to go!
 
Turns out the drawing I was using was 1999 but my boat is 2001, and the online parts list shows the correct oil filter arrangement for a 2001 Challenger. Just one filter followed by a Y connector.

Screen Shot 2019-08-11 at 11.28.09 AM.png
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top