Newbie here. Intro

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gpshemi

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Well 'm a newbie poster here. Been lurking for some time while looking for a project boat. I just picked up a 98' Sportster 1800 "for a steal" as one person proclaimed to me. It's got some issues, so that's part of the reason.

She's been abused and mistreated. However, the last owner has been doing work on her engines. One was replaced entirely it sounds like, the other was rebuilt top and bottom recently and I have receipts for that work. Both engines had about 135psi in the cylinders. I couldn't find where anyone had listed theirs. I assume this is about on par for them. Problems I'm faced with since I got it in the water to test out. Any advice on these would be great.

1) One motor gives me overheat alarm. However, doesn't appear to be running hot after cruising around and several high speed runs. Pulled the wire off the sensor and it stops. Nothing in the pumps. Suspect bad sensor. Can it be tested?

2) Starboard side cavitates like crazy. Nothing in pumps. Wear rings and impellers were just replaced. They look very good and have less then 1mm gap in them for sure. I suspect either thru hull seal or pump seal. It does seem to take on a fair amount of water while running. However, when sitting I didn't see it filling up. Looking underneath I see the shaft tube coming through the hull in the pump area. One blue, one white. The ends are chewed up and different lengths. Should those be trimmed flush to the pump area? I suspect one has been replaced already and that's the reason for the color difference.

3) Speedo doesn't work. Suspect paddle wheel. Hoping gauge is ok. Need to do ohm check on it at the connector in the bay. What settings do I use on a multi meter?

4) Right side RPM gauge reads either 0 or 5500rpms. Nothing in between. I suspected bad gauge so I swapped the wires in dash from the good one to eliminate a sensor error and suspect gauge still doesn't work an the other still does. Sounds like I'll need to replace gauge.

5) Fuel gauge doesn't work. I suspect float/sensor has gone bad. Sounds like it's a common problem with them. Magnet? Bad float? Easy to fix/replace?

Other then that it needs the seat redone, and some touch up here and there with the gelcoat. That isn't a huge deal for me.

We used it this way over the weekend. Seems to go along pretty nice, but I doubt we're not hitting the 50mph mark most see with them. Still cooks right along pretty good though. Certainly worth the effort of fixing.

gpshemi
 
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Sounds like you did get a good deal. I can't answer on everything, but hopefully can help out a bit.

1 - you can test the alarm by using an ohmmeter between the terminal on the top and the side of it when it is cold, and again when it is sitting in 200 degree water. OR you can just swap the sensors left engine to right and see if it fixes one and breaks the other. It is a cheap part.

2 - didn't get a good look at mine last weekend, but the through hull seals around the shaft look very clean, no chewed up ends at all... so that definitely needs something

3 - don't remember how they work, louis (seadoosnipe) has dealt with 'em in other threads so i'm sure he's got some ideas

4 - agreed, sounds like a bad gauge

5 - do a quick search on here for fuel float or fuel baffle and you'll get lots 'o results, or head over to seadoosource.com and you'll find a repair kit for cheap.


Only other thing I can suggest: Don't do anything that will keep it out of the water, you've only got a few more weeks of good weather!
 
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Sounds like you did get a good deal. I can't answer on everything, but hopefully can help out a bit.

1 - you can test the alarm by using an ohmmeter between the terminal on the top and the side of it when it is cold, and again when it is sitting in 200 degree water. OR you can just swap the sensors left engine to right and see if it fixes one and breaks the other. It is a cheap part.

Good thought. I'll try that.

2 - didn't get a good look, but the through hull seals around the shaft are very clean, no chewed up ends at all...

???. You've never seen this boat and yes they are chewed up on the ends. Looks like broken off pieces of pvc pipe sticking out 1-2".

5 - do a quick search on here for fuel float or fuel baffle and you'll get lots 'o results, or head over to seadoosource.com and you'll find a repair kit for cheap.

Yeah I saw that kit the other week. Just not sure if I need it is all.

Only other thing I can suggest: Don't do anything that will keep it out of the water, you've only got a few more weeks of good weather!

Agreed!!
 
Yeah, sorry confusing on #2, I was talking about the through hull seal on my boat, not on yours ;) Edited above to be more clear
 
Yeah, sorry confusing on #2, I was talking about the through hull seal on my boat, not on yours ;) Edited above to be more clear

Ah ok. I saw some online pics of someone else hull and they sorta looked the same. Seems like that would cause turbulence in the pump area to me.

Thanks for the help.
 
If I were you as for the cavitation, I'd start with the pump seal first, maybe the seal with the ride plate too. The turbulence from the seals might affect it a little, but shouldn't cause it to cavitate as much as you're talking.
 
That's what I was hoping as I have a good handle on what it takes to do that. However, it leaking water bothers me some. Not sure where else that could be coming from really. I'd hate to reseal the pump and shoe, have it not work, then have to tear it all apart again for the thru hull. I'm not sure how you do a thru hull seal anyway.
 
As I remember, the through hull seal is done from the engine bay, you pull back the pump (yeah, and seal) and then you take out the drive shaft. The seal is similar to a trailer hub's inside seal, it has a neoprene ring held against the shaft with a spring ring. I saw one on ebay this morning, great lakes skipper has one for 8 bucks or so plus shipping there....

Not sure what's up with the PVC tubes though
 
Okay scratch that, the seal is nothing like a trailer's seal, from now looking at the shop manual, the one that is on ebay must be for a different boat or a pwc.

The through hull has an aluminum shaft protector tube (probably the blue and white things) which are supposed to be epoxied in place and they are also supposed to be cut flush with the hull.

Then it has a carbon ring, a set of o-rings, and a floating ring. I haven't ever redone it myself, so I don't really know how it works.
If you sit at idle with the boat in the water, if the seals are leaking you should see the water coming in there. Otherwise it could be an exhaust or manifold seal or one of the many hoses that carries water
 
G'day,
1)Test as stated above
2)The carbon seal has a stainless ring held to the drive shaft by o-rings and a carbon ring held in place by rubber boot. When stopped you may get a small trickle of water between the two but when moving a thin film of water between them seals the water out. the mating sufaces need to be in good condition to stop water comming in and air going out. Check rubber boot for cracks, this is the most likely. This is why you cannot run on hose for to long as carbon seal will overheat. The shaft covers you are refering to are not important, broke mine 6 month's ago and have not replaced, it may mean a rope can get tangled easier but if you don't run over one then it won't matter!!:rofl:
3)The omega symbol is ohm's
4)Try spraying electrical contact cleaner through small hole in back, then lube oil spray. This fixed mine
5)Yes easy fix losts of info on net and here about this!!
6)Just because there will be a 6)
Good Luck and have fun!!!!!!!!!!!:hurray:
 
Thanks Gunsrunner. That's what I was looking for.
1) Think I'll swap the sensor out. It's cheap enough.
2) I'll check the carbon seals when I put it in the lake next time. Perhaps I'm getting water from somewhere else. Perhaps it's just the pump or shoe leaking.
3) Figured out the multimeter. Had to clean the bilge big time before I'd get in there though. Haven't had a chance to check it out. Grease is everywhere. Big globs of it.
4) Thought I'd remove the gauge from the dash and see if I can get it apart since it's no real good this way. Perhaps a cleaning and lube job will get it to work.
5) Going to pull the sender for the fuel out and give it a quick look too.

THANKS!!
 
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