New owner questions

[terrick619]

I just bought a 2000 challenger 1800 and I was wondering I could get some things clarified.

I don't want to put my trust in the previous owner so i was planning to do the following:

Remove the impeller and lube the shaft.
Replace the impeller and stator lubricant.
New Plugs.
Rig engine for premix.
Install all new plugs and check compression.
Replace fuel filter
Replace water separating fuel filter


To do all that, the only non home depot tools would be the compression tool and the impeller shaft wrench correct?

Am I missing any other actions I should take?

I've read seafoam is bad but what about the mercury power tune engine cleaner is that worth doing?

Last item, I've read on the forum but have yet to find a suggestion on what surge gate to use and where to get it? Currently there is the original and I would rather replace it with one less likely to break.

Thanks

 

[El Toro 33809]

Welcome to the forum. Your list looks fairly complete. I bet Dr. Honda will be by soon with his ideas. Follow his advice. In regards to a replacement grate, we got ours off of eBay. Good luck.

 

[Dr Honda]

Ummmmmmmm......

Looks like you have things covered.

I know there are guys who swear by the Mercury power tune... but personally... the way I see it... any "Pour in" cleaner can cause lubrication issues. Until I'm proven wrong... I don't recommend anything in the fuel other than oil, or fuel stabilizer. not to mention... if it's the factory engine... it's already heading toward end-of-life... and I would hate to see something shorten that. Besides... a little carbon in the heads doesn't hurt anything.

If you are going to remove the heads, and carbs... and spry it in to do the cleaning... that's ok I guess.

Finally... the grate.

Yes... the hydrosurge grate is known to break... but I have mixed feelings on it. If yours is in good condition... I wouldn't jump on it's removal just yet. I've been boating in some grassy lakes... and twice, I felt a load of grass get into my Islandia grate. The first thing I do, is shut off the engine, and see if it falls out. If it doesn't... then being able to give the throttle a bump... and suck the grass through is a great thing. (saves a swim if the water is cold)

IF... your grate is bent, or corroded at all... then yes... pull it before it eats your pump/impeller. OR... if you run in a lake with a lot of junk floating in it... you may want a fixed grate. But be warned... even the good grates can be damaged. I was sent a stainless 11 tine from a member here because they manged to crack it, and it was no longer usable. I took it, and cut ever other tine out of it... and welded it back together.


Anyway.... welcome, and give us a yell if you have anymore Q's.

 

[Dr Honda]

Last thing.....


If you want to take the pump apart just for your personal interest... that's fine. OR... if it's showing a lot of corrosion, or leaking oil... then it needs to come apart. But if it's clean... I would start just by draining the oil first. If it comes out clean... replace it, and call it a day.

 

[terrick619]

Thanks for the information.
The current grate has 1 broken tine, aside from that, it appears ok. I'll get some pictures and post them up for a 2nd opinion.

Re the pump, I thought it was important to lube that shaft? Looking at the impeller through the gate its edges are worn some but far as i can tell look ok, I'll get some pictures up for a 2nd opinion. No leaks that I can notice either. From looking at it i can take the pump apart to inspect it and just leave the impeller on without the 832093A1 wrench correct?

You mention the engines end of life, which makes my inner panda a bit sad to hear. Once it goes whats a rebuild cost assuming that I am not capable to do it myself? And would it just be better to plan to do that end of this season to avoid a summer without it?
Since there isn't a timer on the engine of course i can't tell you how much its really been used.

A local shop is going to have the plugs for me tomorrow so i'll get those swapped and compression tested.

Thanks again for the replies.
Ryan

 

[Coastiejoe]

I'd see if it cranks before you go nuts.

No crank then no need to get plugs.

Just make sure you have oil and give it a try.

 

[terrick619]

We had it out on the water before I paid for it. for the small investment of new plugs etc, is cheap insurance.
If the old ones look ok I could always keep em as backup in the parts bin was my thinking.

 

[Dr Honda]

The Grate:

If there is one broken tine... think about changing it quick. a second broken tine can cause all kinds of bad. Not to mention... if there is a big enough hole... it will let though things that could jam the pump.

Engine Life:

Sorry... I didn't mean to put a black cloud on it. It really depends on how it was maintained, and how much time is on the engine. But... 13 years of wet life generally will eventually take it's toll on the internals.

With that said... going pre-mix is a good start to keeping that engine healthy. As you probably know... the little plastic gear on the crank can strip, and cause loss of oil. I generally am in favor of the oil pump... but these Merc's have that issue with the gear. But... if you do a rebuild... and you put in a new gear... then put the oil injection back in.

The cost of the rebuild depends on what happens, and how much work you can do. If it's a basic melt down... you bore one jug... replace the bearings, pistons, rings... and you are back in biz. (about $1k) Or... you put in one new piston, and continue to run for about $100. In my case... I blew the end of a rod cap. That drove the rod though the block, beat the crank to death, shattered a piston, ripped the cyl liner out of the block, beat a reed cage to death... and caused other general uglyness. I was able to do all my own machine work... but I still had about $1800~$2k into the rebuild.

FYI... most people would have thrown that engine in the trash, and bought a new power head. (about $7k)


The Pump:

Yes... the normal yearly maintenance is to grease the splines and the shaft. But, that's partly to keep the impeller from rusting in place. So... if you aren't going to buy the big impeller socket, and grease the impeller splines, then there isn't any reason to grease the shaft, since it's submerged in oil anyway. (it's in the tail cone oil) But, that's why I said, drain the oil (both sections) and see what it looks like. If it's funky... then yes... take it apart, and check everything. If it's clean... run the season... and then when you go to winterize it... then take it apart, and do a proper service.

Plugs:

Yes... even crusty old plugs are better than a broken one. So... yes... keep the old ones for a back-up.

Compression:

You are looking for around 125 PSI.




Let us know how it checks out. And how about some pics of the new toy???



Here's a link to my rebuild project.

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthre...ndia-Project-(Engine-rebuild-and-other-stuff)