New issue. 93 seadoo xp won't start.

[mograndfront]

I traded for this about 2 weeks ago. It's a 93 seaddo xp. It ran at the time. The guy told me he was premixing and knew very little about the ski. Today I put new oil lines on the ski (thanks to Loudoo for the pic) and a new battery. I checked all the fuses in the grey box because the VTS was not working. I tried to start it and it won't turn over at all now. I haven't took it on the lake at all. It sat the two weeks. All I did was the above mentioned (aside from new tires and trailer lights). Oddly enough, the VTS now works on and off. Is there a fuse for the starter other than in the grey box that the hot wire goes into? Oh, let me add that there is NO power to the starter when the start button is pushed.

 

[LouDoo]

It could be the solenoid, I'm pretty sure on your model it's in the front E-Box. Try jumping across the two main terminals off the solenoid. If the starter turns over it's the solenoid, if it doesn't it's probably the starter.

Lou

 

[mograndfront]

I know this sounds silly, but how do you get port to the positive cable when you open the fuse box? I have to disconnect my positive cable and spark plug wires to flip my fuse box to open it.

 

[mograndfront]

*power to the positive cable*

 

[LouDoo]

I'm not sure that I understand the question. Are you asking how to open the e-box (fuse box)?

Lou

 

[mograndfront]

When I take the fuse box out, I have to disconnect the battery and spark plug wires. I can't jump the solenoid to see if it starts with no power. (The fuse box is too far from the ground wire when pulled to the nose.

 

[mograndfront]

So...how do you test the solenoid with no power?

 

[LouDoo]

I didn't realize it was that tight in there. If you absolutely can't get in there to jump the solenoid with a screwdriver, just put both red terminals on the same post, then just touch the red cable to the battery, and see if the motor turns over. We're not actually testing the solenoid we're just bypassing it.

Lou

 

[mograndfront]

I'll try it! Thanks Lou!

 

[mashenden]

So...how do you test the solenoid with no power?

Think of the starting system in terms of two separate sides; the "big" wire side and the "small" wire side ("small" meaning wire size and low current).

On the "big" side is:

• the starter
• the high current side of the solenoid (which is really a switch that is controlled by yet another smaller switch, the Start button on the handlebar)
• large wires

On the "small" side is:

• the handlebar Start button
• the Kill switch
• a fuse
• the low current or "control" side of the solenoid

Both sides ultimately need to get juice from the battery.

Lou's suggestion will help to identify if the starter and solenoid are suspect. If that test results in the starter kicking in, then chances are the starter is good (unless weak or intermittent) so then focus on the "small" wire side instead. This will require a meter that measures volts or ohms to really be able to trace the problem. Could be a bad Start button, bad Kill switch, fuse, or ground wire.

You will just need to trace backwards until something does not test good. I would start at the solenoid and test both small wires with a volt meter. One of the two should show 12v measured to ground when the Start button is pushed (oh, and with the Kill switch lanyard in place). If neither small wire at the solenoid measures 12v when pushing Start, then it is probably not the solenoid. It is time to move upstream to testing the switches and/or fuse. These are best tested by pulling one wire free and using the Ohm (continuity) tester to make sure they are working.

 

[mograndfront]

Thank you! I appreciate the replies. I'm at work on the BAMbulance tonight but will get back at it tomorrow.

 

[mograndfront]

New solenoid from AutoZone and she jumped to life. Yay! I primed the oil injectors. The lines now don't have air. How can I be absolutely sure I should not keep Premixing? Should I run a mixture until I see the oil tank dropping? You guys have been super help!

 

[kicker]

If your pump primed without trouble and you could see the oil get pushed through, you should be good.

You should also check to make sure the oil is coming out of the injection nipples when you turn it over. I am not sure about your model ski, but my 95, 96, 97 skis nipples are designed like a check valve and have a rubber components in them, if they sit too long without oil in there that rubber has the potential to dry up and crack.

If it was me, I would run a half tank of 50:1 and mark your oil tank just to make sure. Once you get that done, you will be glad you did it.

 

[mograndfront]

New solenoid from AutoZone and she jumped to life. Yay! I primed the oil injectors. The lines now don't have air. How can I be absolutely sure I should not keep Premixing? Should I run a mixture until I see the oil tank dropping? You guys have been super help!

 

[mograndfront]

Thanks! One more question. The oil in it is blue and the quicksilver I'm going to use is purple. Should I drain the tank.

 

[Seadoobuddy]

Thanks! One more question. The oil in it is blue and the quicksilver I'm going to use is purple. Should I drain the tank.

What is the oil you'll be using?

 

[LouDoo]

The short answer is yes. If the oil in the tank is blue/green it's probably TC-W3 which is a no no for SeaDoo's. The Quicksilver is purple in your ski, synthetic blend is fine, if you're getting it a Walmart get the silver bottle, API-TC rated.

You really should go ahead and service the oil injection system. Drain the tank, change the injector lines use 3/32" tygon fuel line, change the oil filter, refill the tank, and bleed the system.

Lou

 

[LouDoo]

Here's a reply I recently made to another member who just bought a used ski, I thought maybe you could use it also.

Hi and welcome to the SeaDoo forum.

I can give you a list of what I do when I get a new to me ski.

1. Download a manual for the ski, you can get it on this site if you join as a premium member, or just google for one.

2. Check the compression, it should be around 150psi, if less than 135 you could have problems.

3. If the ski has grey tempo fuel lines, change them, use black automotive fuel hose, replace or clean the fuel selector, open up the carbs. and rebuild if necessary and the minimum clean or replace the carb. filters.

4. While you have the carbs. off service the oil injection system, change the oil filter and the small injector oil lines.

5. Check the impeller and the wear ring, change the pump oil.

I know this sounds like a lot of work, but it's not really all that hard, if you've never worked on a SeaDoo you're looking at maybe a weekend's work and if you need help just yell, there's always somebody on the forum that will help out.

Lou

 

[mograndfront]

I've already changed the lines with tygon. I will pick up the filter and drain the lines. It seemed to prime pretty easily.

 

[mograndfront]

Umm...what's a wear ring? Lol

 

[LouDoo]

Check out this thread.

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?30720-How-To-Changing-Your-Wear-Ring

Lou