New guy, trying to get SeaDoo's ready for the water. 95 & 96 GTX's.

[RedAggie03]

RedAggie03's 95 & 96 GTX Projects

I bought a lakehouse this year and the guy threw in the two SeaDoo's he had. I'm now the proud (I think?) owner of a 1995 GTX 657X and a 1996 GTX 787. No idea if these are good years and models, but they were basically free...so I'm going to roll with it. I love resto projects, so this gives me a solid start with no investment.

I'm new to PWC's, but I'm pretty good with reading on Forums and Google searches - based on what I've read and the issues I've experienced with these GTX's, here's my initial evaluation:

1995 GTX- Runs great for something 19 years old. ...for 15 or 20 minutes. Then it goes into limp mode it seems - only runs at low RPM's. Not sure what causes this. It still has grey lines - so those will be replaced ASAP.

• Replace grey lines
• Compression test
• Clean carbs
• Go through the oiling system, replace lines
• Fix fuel gauge - bad float?
• New grips - ODI Rogue
• Clean inside of hull - very oily and dirty
• Clean and polish

1996 GTX - Needs a new wear ring BADLY. It runs wonderful, but goes almost nowhere. Gets up to speed, but wow...no balls off the line. No grey lines and recent service completed, shouldn't need much (famous last words)

• Compression test
• Replace wear ring
• New anti-rattle cone and oil
• Check oiling system, replace lines and clean if required
• Replace screen on info gauge - crystalized
• New grips - ODI Rogue
• Clean inside of hull
• Clean and polish
• Check RAVE valves

Anyway, I love restoring things and forums...so I'll see y'all around.

- Jason

 

[Strizzo]

the wear ring replacement isn't too hard, only a few bolts to pull the pump, then a bit of work to pull the old ring out. I'd recommend changing the gray fuel lines out on both skis asap before they cause problems down the road. while you're sorting out the fuel system you can check over and clean up the carbs and service the oil system at the same time. when i bought my 95 the oil lines had dryrotted off and would have burned up the motor if the carbs weren't plugged solid with fuel line goo, keeping the engine from starting. the oiling system is actually very robust on the rotax engines so as long as you keep the lines hooked up they are reliable as an anvil.

as a start i'd be:

changing the jet pump oil (likely that it's never been done)
change both wear rings (while yer in there)
replace gray fuel lines and service/clean carbs and add an inline fuel filter
service oiling system (new lines, filter, sync since you're already pulling the carbs off, make sure you're using the correct oil)
Edit: service the RAVE valves on the 96 gtx.

give em a good wash and wax and hit the lake.


which lake is the house on, houston or conroe?

 

[RedAggie03]

Thanks for the great info...

The '96 GTX has all black lines already, fresh carb rebuild, etc...it runs great. I still want to look over everything and it needs a good cleaning. It also had a RAVE service and they even replaced one I believe. Either way, I'll start re-doing these services and checks. I think the first priority is get the sucker clean.

On the '95 GTX, do you have any ideas why it would run great for 20 minutes and then only idle/low RPM? it still runs, just will not pickup RPM's.

The house is actually on Palestine, but I'm sure I'll be doing my test runs on Houston or Conroe on the weekends.

 

[RedAggie03]

I just read Dr. Honda's sticky for new members, lol. He's a funny guy! I've been a forum guy a long time and I'm also a moderator on other forums. I've seen it all. I'm assure you guys I'm reading and searching as fast as I can, but if you happen to know the answers or have tips, I do appreciate the help. I have a 1 year old boy and the wife already hates these SeaDoo's, so I have to work in short bursts and have to work quick. So I don't get a lot of time to tinker. Oh well.

I don't know what to search for to find this answer, but what are these two little black boxes in the bottom of the hull? I have them in my 95 and they are covered in crud...well the whole bottom of the hull on the inside is nasty. I know what most of the stuff in there is, but these things I can't figure out:

Sorry I stole this image from racerxxx's build thread.

 

[mikidymac]

The two black boxes with the clear/yellow hoses are your bilge pumps. They work on vacuum from the pump. They are not fast but at speed they do a good job. The faster you go the more water they will pull out so keep them clean. The bottoms of them have many little holes that need to be kept clean to work.

 

[Strizzo]

not sure what could cause the issue you're having with the 95, it could very likely be related to the old gray fuel lines and plugged up carbs, or it could be as simple as a bad rectifier or a dirt dobber nest in one of the cooling lines. does it act like its hitting a rev limiter when it won't go? when you're riding, make sure that the little pisser at the back by the towing eye is squirting out water, that is what tells you the cooling system is circulating.

 

[eddie708]

on the 95 i would check the fuel selector and also the check valves on the vent for the gas tank. sounds like lack of fuel. next time u ride try switching to reserve and see if it gets any better if not loosen the gas cap and try it again. Replace those fuel lines soon!!

 

[Strizzo]

on the 95 i would check the fuel selector and also the check valves on the vent for the gas tank. sounds like lack of fuel. next time u ride try switching to reserve and see if it gets any better if not loosen the gas cap and try it again. Replace those fuel lines soon!!

ah, yes, that is the symptom of a plugged fuel tank check valve.

there is a check valve that allows air to come into the gas tank as the engine uses it up, to prevent a vacuum from being pulled in the tank. at a certain point (happens quicker with a full tank than a low tank), the vacuum is greater than the fuel pump can pull and the engine starves for fuel. the IN check valve should be just off the tank under the handlebars and behind the front storage bin. there is an OUT check valve in line and a fitting that would vent tank pressure (and gas fumes) outside of the hull.

 

[RedAggie03]

OK, I'll check that...Speaking of gas fumes - these things are making my garage stink. They are in the garage with the seats off, is that the right way (safe?)?

Secondly - I think I want to get traction mats for these... BlackTip? Hydro Mat? PSA backing yes/no?

 

[Coastiejoe]

When you do the Grey Tempo lines, replace or do a MAJOR cleaning of the fuel selector.

I store mine in my garage all the time with the seats raised.. I have later model 4-tech skis and get almost no fuel odor after the first hour or so.

 

[RedAggie03]

I've already cleaned out the fuel selector on the 96. It would only run on reserve. On my check list for sure... Thanks!


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[irregardless]

For what it's worth... My 95 has a stripped knob on the fuel selector and was stuck in an "almost-off/half-on" position instead of actually changing to either ON or RES.

 

[RedAggie03]

So yeah... No wear ring really left, just the core lol!!


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[RedAggie03]

Cone fluid looks and smells yummy. Either it's been serviced or very low hour ski. Bearing are rock solid too.

So far so good!!


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[RedAggie03]

Under the seat is pretty clean. Some sludge in the bottom, but not too bad.


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[eddie708]

OK, I'll check that...Speaking of gas fumes - these things are making my garage stink. They are in the garage with the seats off, is that the right way (safe?)?

Secondly - I think I want to get traction mats for these... BlackTip? Hydro Mat? PSA backing yes/no?

I would strongly suggests hydro turf over the other brands. I just installed some blacktip mats on someone's ski and I was not impressed. Get the backing on it, makes the install a lot better and cleaner.

Looks like your have done your research and are off to great start, when u do the wear ring be sure to order the impeller tool

 

[Pointhunter75]

And put it in the freezer before trying to remove old wear ring.

 

[RedAggie03]

It's been in there all night, I'm about to try getting it out.

I also hooked up my new battery tenders last night.

I need to read up on polishing procedures, any good write ups?


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[Strizzo]

someone on here, can't remember which of the ski resto/rescue guys it was, did a good how to. the gist of it is though, that the gelcoat is super tough compared to automotive paint, so you can be pretty aggressive with it.

 

[mikidymac]

I second the hydroturf. I bought the black tips for one of my skis and it is not a good as hydroturf, it is much harder and just not the same quality in my opinion. I will be selling them and getting hydroturf.

 

[RedAggie03]

Cool, thanks guys - $89 for Hydro Turf the best price?

Oh and I got the wear ring out this morning. Freezer worked great. Didn't just slide out, but so taps around the edge from behind and it came out. I'll still get the impeller tool, but didn't need it for this job so far.

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[Pointhunter75]

15%off google it. Pwcmuscle.com I think. Try hydro15 code. Yep tried it and it worked still.

 

[Strizzo]

nice work getting the ring out without pulling the impeller. some wd40 on the new ring makes getting it started much easier.

 

[RedAggie03]

Ordered tons of parts. Got some from Parker Yamaha, some from OSD Marine, and I ordered my Hydro Turf.

I need a new life jacket - suggestions?


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[Strizzo]

for yours and the family that will be at the lake with you most often, get a quality neoprene one, they're way more comfortable and durable. as for the "loaners" just get a couple cheapos in the med - L - XL range for people to use. might want to make sure they're rated for 50mph water impact, i believe most are nowadays.