New guy, trying to get SeaDoo's ready for the water. 95 & 96 GTX's.

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RedAggie03 said:
And I need a pressure tester, what about that?


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mikuni brand: http://www.amazon.com/Mikuni-Pop-Of...3904745&sr=8-2&keywords=mikuni+pop+off+tester

mine looks like this one, pretty sure i got it from OSD, maybe it came from parker i dunno.

602.jpg


osd parts sells one made from parts, i think you hook a bike pump to it:
http://osdparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_free_shipping_info&cPath=595_602_1&products_id=59
 
I just finished replacing the screen on the info gauge and it works!! I also ripped of the factory traction pads in the rear to prepare for my Hydro Turf.

Now that the info gauge works I was able to see that the 'doo has 96.4 hours on it. Cool!

Is there a way to tell how many hours my '95 GTX has? It doesn't have an info gauge.


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Wow, nobody mentioned that getting the drive shaft back into the impeller while aligning the pump was a huge b!tch. I took the intake grate off and did it from there. Not easy to do alone.


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I think I put the shaft into the impeller first, and then guided it into the pto when I was lining up the pump. I don't recall it being terribly difficult honestly.
 
I didn't think about doing that. What all holds the shaft on the other end? It didn't slide out for me.


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oh also once I installed the new anti-rattle cone, filled with oil, and pressure tested I tried to spin the prop and it was VERY hard to turn. Is this normal? I'm talking about on the bench, not installed on the ski.
 
I have no idea, that's another thing, I always put the cone on after I install the pump so I can turn the prop to line up the splines if I need to. I think it should spin ok, unless that's the friction of the new seal on the driveshaft. Is it rubbing on the wear ring? You could have pinched the thrust washer with the shaft, but usually that happens when you torque the shaft and it locks up solid. Did the starter have any trouble turning it over afterwards?
 
It spun easily after installing the ring, but is tight after installing the cone. I didn't try to start it, it was 1 AM. I'll try tonight or tomorrow.


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I spent two hours tonight cleaning out the hulls on both SeaDoos. Wow, so much crud came out of there. Lots of hose clamps, screws, zip ties, and random junk too. They look GREAT though now. Hoping to hit the water this weekend.


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429.jpg


I got a little crazy with my 95 GTX tonight. Started the process of replacing the grey tempo lines...



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431.jpg


Is this an oil line that's broken off/missing?

432.jpg


I think I broke it off when I was cleaning out the hull. Luckily, I have not run it yet!!


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top pik,large hole is the pulse line for the fuel pump(line goes to the carb,small hole is a broken oil line,(the fitting)bottom pik, is the line broke off at the oil pump.
after u replace the oil lines,crack open the 5/16 screw,on the oil pump,and let the oil bleed thru,till no bubbles,(i always premix the first tank,,40:1,,after line changes)when u fire up the ski,hold the oil pump cam at wide open,and watch the oil pulse toward the inj nipples,(holding the pump wide open makes this happen way quiker),,,,good job on the cleanup !!
 
THANKS Donkey!! The oil line that broke off was rather long, maybe 12-14". The distance between the two barbs is small though. Do the lines need to be a certain length? What size are these oil lines so I can order them? It's a 95 GTX.


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Oh, I also started the 96 GTX today, the hard to turn impeller seems to be fine. It was probably just the pressure from the anti-rattle cone spring.


One thing though, it took FOREVER to get it started. Since, I clipped the spark plug wires and really cleaned out the fuel selector (I had done this previously and re-installed it backwards, so I fixed that and cleaned it out even more), and I replaced the fuel filter and o-ring for the bowl. What else could cause a long start up?


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Takes time to get the fuel through the lines. My 97 cranks for 10-15 seconds with the choke on to get fired if the lines are empty. I try to run the fuel out of the lines with the selector off before parking so they don't stink up the garage. You can watch the fuel filter (you did put an inline filter in, right?) and usually the motor will fire at the moment the fuel reaches the outlet of the filter. I haven't had good luck cleaning out fuel selectors. Given yours are 95 and 96, they're cheap enough(1/4" line) that you can just replace them and have a bit of peace of mind. My 4th weekend riding was cut short last year due to a leaking selector.
 
the length doesnt matter,although u dont want excess floppin around to get caught on somethin,i get my oil line from oreilly auto parts,3/32,it comes in 2 foot sections,,they call it prime line,fuel line,samo samo,auto zone pepboys lawn mower shops will have it also. i use zip ties to secure the new lines.google 7-081532. it pops up first spot. i think i paid a buk-ish
 
Thanks again Donkey! I'll go get that stuff today.

I've been busy so far today....

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Clean hull!!

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Drained tank and cleaned out the tiny bit of debris

437.jpg


Replaced float in sending unit

About to replace lines and clean out the fuel selector. This is all on the 95. The 96 is ready for a test run tomorrow!!

438.jpg



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439.jpg


Fuel selector removed, disassembled, carefully cleaned, lubed, and put back together.




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