need help saving '96 gti basket case

[toplessndurty]

So, the story starts like so many others. I was given the ski, no trailer, all the pieces are there. No registration since 09. I know it's been sitting probably that long, outside, uncovered. It has changed hands between two of my brothers in law in that time, and finally given to me because they know I love junk, and will try to fix anything. I'm usually pretty good. I know this can be saved, just not sure if it's worth the effort or $. Was told "It ran, the last guy just put a new jet pump on it, just needs a battery and the throttle linkage hooked up." Cosmetically, it is dirty badly oxidized/faded, no rips in the seats but they are faded, shrunken and look like crap.

After fixing seized throttle shafts in both carbs and a couple corrosion related electrical issues, it starts. Turns over hard initially, oil in cylinders but not a lot, spitting oil out of the front carb, idles, smokes, won't rev when throttle opened, just blows compression out the carbs. The guages don't work. Reverse cable is seized but I think that can be fixed by cleaning oxidation from the front handle linkage.

So, I know I can get a rebuilt engine, from the usual sources, and I know the cost. I have decided it's prob not worth pouring that $ into this ski, which has no paperwork and will require me driving to a non-title state and doing some shady stuff to get a registration in my name.

I want to get this running for just a couple hundred, and use it this summer. I'll be fine if it only lasts one season, or even just a few rides. We rent a couple skis, once or twice a year. If the cost of the rentals ends up being more than the cost to patch this together, then I am doing ok. I have a trailer for another small boat that it fits on, and I will use that. Reliability also doesn't matter.

I am planning new rings on the existing pistons, in the existing bores and a gasket kit. I am thinking my compression, fuel blowing out the carb is partly worn or just varnished rings. Also suspect the inner crank seals and rotary valve seals are toasted, leading to all the oil in the wrong places issues. I am not interested in buying a new crank. I am interested in splitting the crank. I don't have the tools to do this precisely, but I do have the tools and ability to struggle with this, and get it "good enough".

That being said, where can I get just the inner crank seals? I don't want the whole crank rebuild kit, the bearings and rods seem ok, the crank spins, that's good enough for me.

Are there any sources for just the seals? Anyone know if seals from any other rotax engine in a sled, powered parachute, whatever, might fit?; because seadoo doesn't seem to list them as a part available separately.

I understand the reasoning behind doing it once, right. This is not that kind of project. This is the kind of project where satisfaction will come from getting it running well enough to ride, for minimal cash. After it is not useful as a runner it will be sold for parts, or parted out.

Thanks!

 

[AdamXP800]

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[smc0922]

Alright here's the deal- don't even bother with the crankshaft. You cannot get it true enough to even spin in the motor- period. Either get a rebuilt crank or leave it alone. Oil leaking won't kill much except the plugs, and as you said you're not going to ride it much more than a few times.

You have a rotary valve timing issue. Blow by may be a factor, but I'll bet the RV gears have a problem. That is where I would start. Make sure the carbs are clean and the pop-off is set properly.

Report back with what you find.

 

[ski-d00]

Understand your situation and have had many people tell me to spend absolutely the least amount you can to just get it running and if it blows up after 5 minutes then that's the way it goes. So, you definitely don't need crank seals. In fact, it's pretty normal for them to leak after sitting for years and many times they will either stop leaking or leak very little unless it sits for weeks and as soon as you get it running again it will burn up the oil and be fine until it sits again. You probably don't even need rings, they typically will reseat and be okay if the cylinders aren't too rusty.

So, step 1 to is put a generous amount of 2 stroke oil(also check oil in the tank to make sure it is the correct oil, should be brown and not blue or green, never use outboard 2 stroke motor oil) in the cylinders and turn over by hand with the plugs out. If it was running previously before sitting and hopefully sat after being winterized, usually it will run again with minimal effort. If it doesn't, take head off and examine piston/cyl, post pics. If it turns over freely both directions with no clunks or hang ups, get a car battery and hook it up and see if it turns over with the starter with the plugs out. If it does, put some fresh gas in the cylinders(leave fuel selector set to off if it moves freely) and new spark plugs and see if it will pop. If it does, continue with gas in the cyl(2 stroke mix preferred) repeatedly and see if you can get it to run for a few seconds. If you can, then siphon out old gas in tank and put in fresh gas in the tank AND in the water separator then turn on fuel switch. Continue to add fuel mix to the cyl until it runs on it's own, then run on the hose for 3 min.

I would say about 80% of the time, I get old skis to run for less than $100 in labor and almost nothing in parts. However, some only last 10 minutes but others last for years. Of course, there are a lot of other good maintenance things to do like change grey fuel lines, clean carbs, set oil pump, grease pto, fix gauges, etc. but all that can be done after you get it running.

 

[toplessndurty]

Thanks for the quick responses. The ski runs now so I am trying to avoid pulling the head if possible. Any suggestions on checking the rotary valve gears/timing with minimal teardown and not removing the engine? I know teardown can and should start with pulling the head, I can do that pretty quickly but I don't want to trash the gaskets if a valve timing adjustment can be made without touching the top end. If valve gears are trashed, I would prob write it of as done.

 

[ski-d00]

why do want to pull the head? there's no access to the rotary valve there. the head uses o-ring gaskets so you can easily remove and replace.

If it runs, the valve gears aren't trashed. They are probably fine and so is the timing.

So, if it runs, what's the problem? just the oil leak from the valve housing to the crankcase? this may seal back up or greatly reduce once you get it on the water but it needs to be run for awhile. These seals can't be replaced unless you split the crank, so unless you're doing a full rebuild, you will have to live with it.

 

[LouDoo]

If you've got the ski running the first thing I would do is check the compression, if it's 120psi or less you're beating a dead horse. A ski with low compression may run on the trailer, but putting it in the water is a different story, it's going no where.

Lou