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RESTO My 97 XP Mini Resto Project

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Ahh, yeah im not really worried about the paint here. Ill probably just find screwdriver hose clamps, I hate those oem clamps. I have seen others here use zip ties, any thoughts on that. I think it was JSG I saw using them...thx for the advice on the starter, yeah, didnt know about the alignment thing, hopefully it goes right in. You guys use a little silicone on your starter to keep it sealed up? I have been doing that as i dont really trust that tiny o ring.
 
O-ring with a light coat of grease for the starter. My Home Depot sell FULL stainless hose clamps in the plumbing department by the brass fittings. A bag of 10 is $6.65 IIRC. And they are the correct size and have a nice narrow band. Lowes has theirs marked stainless, but the screw is not.
 
Welp, got a little good news tonight. Took the carb apart tonight. It was freakin SUPER CLEAN. Maybe only one or two specks of anything in the mini carb filters. So, that being said I am getting more confident that this was a good running ski last summer. Im assuming it was rebuilt fairly shortly ago, I checked the Carb Reference, http://www.seadoosource.com/carbreference.html, and everything was spot on in terms of jetting, and high and low needle turns out. Didnt have any carb cleaner around home that I could find today, so I will get some Wednesday just to double check every little piece of dirt is out of there as well as get some new fuel lines. Anybody know how much I will need for this ski? I assume it is what, 1/4" I.D. fuel line? I thought that was it but couldnt remember. Gunna get the new "rebuilt Frankensteined" starter back on it as well and see how well she turns over.

Im really having a dilemma if I want to go premix or oil injected. It is currently oil injected, but im having some concerns about this 1.5 overbore, and maybe running premix wouldnt be such a bad idea for some extra insurance, especially after hearing Tonkas concern about heat dissipation with those thin sleeves. But for sure Im gunna rip out the oil tank, clean it out, and start with fresh oil so I know whats in it
 
A 25 foot roll of the automotive 1/4' will do ya. You can always premix like 10:1 in addition to your oil injection system just for a little insurance. I like to go pre-mix and use a new fuel switch just for piece of mind.
 
Oh ya, that's right on the fuel lines. OK 5 to 1 on the insurance then. Sorry, slow night for X4 talk and used parts.
 
well, the super clean carb's solves the mystery then... the CARBS were rebuilt 8 hours ago...

and re: the oem clamp's I friggen hate them !!!

and i'm a big fan of zippies.. vs screw clamps... but i use the screws on the fuel baffle and stuff.
 
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Anyone know anything about these accelerator pumps? Im have never worked on them, and dont know what/ if they need to be serviced. Do I need to replace the little lines on there for them? Also, what exactly does an accelerator pump do?
 
The accellerator pump squirts a little extra fuel when you pin the throttle, which gets rid of any hesitation. Because there is a sudden loss of vaccum with inital WOT, the engine wouldn't be able to get enough fuel from the carbs, so the accellerator pump supplies that little extra bit of fuel to compensate. When it comes to the lines, I would replace them.

Personally, when i work on something, when it comes to lines and gaskets, I always replace them. For the cost, it is well worth doing it when you have it appart, rather than tearing it appart during the summer and wasting a perfectly good weekend! And i would hate to have one of those lines crack and leak fuel into my hull...
 
It will be obvious when you get in there...5/16 from the pickups to the selector, then to the seperator, then to the carbs. 1/4 thereafter.

Accel pumps...just blast a bunch of carb cleaner thru the injectors and make sure they spray nice. Then inspect the diaphram and put a dab of grease on the tip.

I then funnel a little gas into the pump and make sure they spray nice, and also to prime the pump. I had one that just wouldnt self prime (boat) and it was a PITA. Nice to do it off the machine.
 
the accel pumps can be a little problematic but if they're working right, you can really notice the difference between a ski with them and without,,, personally i prefer them on and working, i notice the acceleration curve is a bit smoother. and note if they aren't working right, they can be removed and you can rejet to compensate, but you will still notice a lil' hesitation.
 
Well I will try and disassemble them and clean them. Hope to replace or at least start to replace the fuel lines today...anybody have any threads about trimming rave valves or any helpers? Like how to go about it and how much do I need to trim for a 1.5 overbore
 
If you havent already done so...flip the seat up to reach the lines. Take the under seat cover off, loosen the boot clamp, then on the lower end get the boot in there out of the way and unbolt the shock from the tower. Flip the seat up (watch out for the fuel cap) and the access is MUCH better.
 
Welp. Got a little bit more work done today. I cleaned off the head bolts to a squeaky clean shine. I also went thru the carbs and cleaned it up, even tho it really didnt need it. Only bad part was I went thru the carbs, and I forgot to use my brand new pop off tester i just built a week or so ago! Do you guys think I need to go back and do it? I am still skeptical on how to do it exactly...can someone walk me through it? Also went with some of the locals advice and just used zip ties on the fuel lines, I tried to pull a line off with a zip tie on it and couldnt, so they are on there good. I may use steel clamps on the stuff further back tho... Here are a few pics...tomorrow is my first day off in a while, ski should look night and day different after tomorrow, the hull will be shining like a new penny and new fuel lines and the starter will be installed! Then all that I should need left to do is the new head and rave valves!....hopefullyIMG_0228.jpgIMG_0229.jpgIMG_0230.jpg
 
my gut says if the carbs were rebuilt in the last 10 hours, don't bother with the popoff, (and this is coming from a guy that ALWAYS says pull them)

should I put that head back in my storage bin or are you still interested.
 
Spimothy Leary said:
my gut says if the carbs were rebuilt in the last 10 hours, don't bother with the popoff, (and this is coming from a guy that ALWAYS says pull them)

should I put that head back in my storage bin or are you still interested.
Click to expand...

This is the perfect time to measure the pop-off with the carbs off the ski. Why chance it and have to pull them back off if it doesn't run right? Unless you know and trust the person who rebuilt those carbs I wouldn't trust them to be perfect. It's way too easy to put the wrong spring in that comes with the kit and have pop-off all wrong. Plus, you should pressure test them since they were taken apart and re-assembled.

Download this manual and give it a read: http://www.mikuni.com/pdf/sbn_manual.pdf
 
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DA080682 said:
This is the perfect time to measure the pop-off with the carbs off the ski. Why chance it and have to pull them back off if it doesn't run right? Unless you know and trust the person who rebuilt those carbs I wouldn't trust them to be perfect. It's way too easy to put the wrong spring in that comes with the kit and have pop-off all wrong. Plus, you should pressure test them since they were taken apart and re-assembled.

Download this manual and give it a read: http://www.mikuni.com/pdf/sbn_manual.pdf
Click to expand...

my bad i misunderstood, I thought the carbs were already back on the ski, and in that case, the lazy part of me says don't bother... but I agree, better safe than sorry, especially if they haven't been put back on the ski yet.. much easier now.
 
Yeah. I will probably try and check the pop off since they are off, it isnt like this thing will be in the water for another 3 months at least :( Besides I still have alot of stuff need to order still. Oil filter, oil lines, clean out the oil tank, change pump oil, etc.

Well got a little bit more work done on the ski today. Broke out the Super Clean and a scrub brush and went to work

BEFORE


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AFTER



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Also got new fuel lines installed today as well!
146.jpg
 
CR-MIZ,

You have earned the Good House Keeping award for a tidy engine compartment! :thumbsup::thumbsup: Keep up the good work and ya missed a spot. Clean the top of the tank!

146.jpg
 
Thanks racer! Now after just looking at all of those pics again i realized I see oil dripping up near the nose by the mpem. Damn! Off to the garage real quick lol
 
Also, forgot to say that I got the starter put on, and she turns over real nice. It sounds a little noisy tho, could be a weak battery but it sounded like she was putting out alot of compression. Will put the gauge on it tomorrow...
 
Minnetonka4me said:
If you havent already done so...flip the seat up to reach the lines. Take the under seat cover off, loosen the boot clamp, then on the lower end get the boot in there out of the way and unbolt the shock from the tower. Flip the seat up (watch out for the fuel cap) and the access is MUCH better.
Click to expand...

I have done it a little differently. I remove the front pivot mounts, remove the under seat cover, loosen the top boot clamp and rotate the seat 90 deg.
 
Interesting...which brings up a good point. Make dang sure on all 97xp/98+XPLs that both of those pivots are nice and tight. When they work loose it rips up the hull.
 
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