My 1996 SPI Resto

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What type of grease for the drive shaft and any diy's for alignment of it without the tool?
 
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You still need Ultra black RTV around the tubes even with the neoprene seal.

I use seadoo synthetic XPS grease.

You have to have the tool to do the alignment correctly.
 
Ok. Will order the seal, found one with the 2 little o rings for just undrr $8.
Pulled airbox and air filter, here's a pic, its not pretty:
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From the pictures I would suspect water in the crankcase and a rusted crank. To me that looks like rust and corroded water not fuel.
 
From the pictures I would suspect water in the crankcase and a rusted crank. To me that looks like rust and corroded water not fuel.
Smelled like fuel but will double check. Any way to easily drain crankcase if it is water? I can pull motor as its mounts are broken at the moment.
 
If it is water the engine is dead and will need a full rebuild.
Seems to be gas with oil on a second look so fingers crossed. About a tablespoon of it, cleaned it out now.

Just pulled jet pump tonight, wear ring is scored. Drive shaft looks good. Opened mpem which is dry thankfully. Here's a pic :
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If it is gas and oil then why is there so much corrosion in the carb and air filter base.

Also the oil should not be in the carb or green as it is injected after the carb.

I would investigate that issue further before you start spending money on anything else.
 
If it is gas and oil then why is there so much corrosion in the carb and air filter base.

Also the oil should not be in the carb or green as it is injected after the carb.

I would investigate that issue further before you start spending money on anything else.
Good question re the oil, will look into it further.

I saw a video on a guy fixing a seadoo that had water in engine. He did the usual turning it over without spark plugs to force water out but also removed line from block to carb(fuel pulse line I think) and a lot of brown water came out of it when turning over the engine. Is this a goog added way of removing water as I hadn't seen this mentioned before?
 
If the water has been sitting for more than a day your engine is already shot. The only way that works is if you get the water out immediately then run the ski hard for at least an hour.
 
Having a starter issue - push start button few times and there would be a buzz noise, then next time a clunk, then another press and turns over fine. Repeatedly did the same thing quite a few times. Called it a night then next day drained old gas completely and tried to start and then no sound at all or tuning over. Battery is charged, pto moves smoothly.

Is there a pressure switch for the fuel that stops the seadoo from turning over when tank is emty?
 
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Found the issue and it was a simple fix - one of the fuses in the mpem was blown. Replaced it and she turns over again although still in the same manner, 4 pushes of the starter button needed (buzz, buzz, clunk, and then turns engine over smoothly on 4th push of button).

Poured 94 octane fuel mixed with 2 cycle oil in the spark plug holes and down carb throat and she started running for a few seconds. Did this a bunch of times before calling it a night.

Compression tested it also and have 150 in both cylinders.
 
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You probably have a bad connection or cable causing the intermittent cranking. A battery on the way out will also cause this.
 
Have some oil that seams to be leaking possibly from lines. Hoses had some on it and puddle on inner hull. Is this likely from oil injector lines?
First pic I had already cleaned off part of oil on line, second pic is of blue oil pool on inner hull.
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First off you need to drain and flush the oil system and install a new oil filter. The blue oil is wrong for a Seadoo. Use only API-TC rated oil.

Second the small oil lines from the pump to the intake need to be replaced with 3/32" Tygon hose.

The oil leak is typically from the grommet on the bottom of the oil tank or somebody over tightened the hose clamp cutting the oil line that runs under each side of the engine.

Castrol Super Clean in the purple bottle will clean up that hull.
 
Stay with oil injection it’s super reliable and saves gallons of oil. That is just a vent, nothing connects to it.
 
Yeah, been reading up on pros & cons, guess I'll stay with the oil injection.

Saw that some driveshafts have rubber bumpers on each end.Mine doesnt have them on and not sure if theyre needed. Also, there's a plastic section on my driveshaft thats cracked. Is this critical?
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You have to have the two rubber bumpers.

The plastic ring keeps the rubber boot on and also helps keep the grease on the splines.
 
So after successfully starting and running smoothly for about 60 seconds after sitting a year the SPI won't start. Has spark, fuel (spark plugs wet), and compression. Even when putting premix in carb and/or cylinders it won't start at all. Battery is fully charged. Thinking may be timing thrown off by sheared rotary brass gear possibly or?
 
Still not able to get the SPI started again. If the carb is clogged should the motor still start up for a second or two with premix in the carb and cylinders?
 
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