My 1996 SPI Resto

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Seadoo Tuner

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Just picked up a 96 SPI that needs work. Rode it last year once and seemed to run well but developed a leak and the previous owner did a DIY repair on the driveshaft seal with a section of rubber from the local hardware store instead of the accordion style proper seal that I've seen.

Took on water last September again before it was stored outside for winter without proper measures taken to make sure water was out. Was sitting in water half sunk for an hour and then taken out, and tipped to drain water and started for a few minutes.

Looking it over it needs 4 motor mounts (motor shifted forward 1 1/2 inches last time previous owner used in Sept when he broke down, he said he heard a thump just before it stalled after going over a wave, no doubt it was the motor mounts breaking), proper drive shaft seal, and fuel gauge fixed at the least. Drive shaft spins as I moved by hand to check if it was seized.

If I take off the head cover to check out piston walls and pistons for rust do I need to change gasket when I put it back on or can I re-use gasket?
 
Welcome to the forum! Can you post a pic of the driveshaft set up, lets see what he's using. He may have converted to the old style, which was a straight piece of hose with a bearing housing. The Tapatalk app for your smartphone makes posting pics easy.
 
Seadoo does not use gaskets to seal the head on that model, just two o-rings, they are cheap and I would defiantly replace them while I was in there.
 
racerxxx said:
Welcome to the forum! Can you post a pic of the driveshaft set up, lets see what he's using. He may have converted to the old style, which was a straight piece of hose with a bearing housing. The Tapatalk app for your smartphone makes posting pics easy.
Click to expand...

Seems like the po did use the old setup for the 95 and before models. Think the 96 used the accordion style which would be a better design as it allows for some movement?
Here's a pic of the driveshaft :
96 SPI Shaft Seal.JPG

Pics of one of the motor mounts showing how engine moved forward about an inch and a half :
96 SPI Motor Mount.JPG
 
Actually form your picture that is the carbon seal setup but it is using the completely wrong boot. I have no clue how that thing is not sinking with water.
The old carrier system had a different rubber hose and a seal/bearing aluminum piece with a grease fitting. What you have is completely wrong.
 
mikidymac said:
Actually form your picture that is the carbon seal setup but it is using the completely wrong boot. I have no clue how that thing is not sinking with water.
The old carrier system had a different rubber hose and a seal/bearing aluminum piece with a grease fitting. What you have is completely wrong.
Click to expand...

So what do I need then, the rubber accordion type shaft seal and in addition the drive shaft carrier(I've seen those online with the grease nipple)like these :
drive shaft seal rubber boot.jpgsealcarrier1.jpg
 
No, if your carbon seal and stainless hat are still ok all you will need is the rubber accordion in your first picture.

The second picture with the aluminum carrier uses a straight rigid hose not the accordion one.
 
wfo speedracer said:
Make sure you get an OEM accordion boot, there are aftermarket ones, they do not work well.
Click to expand...

:thumbsup: I have yet to find an aftermarket part on these that are worth the cost savings over OEM. About the only time I stray from and OEM part is if it is no longer available then I try for used OEM from Minnetinka4me.

An extra $20 is worth it when you are ripping around the lake instead of sitting on shore.
 
mikidymac said:
No, if your carbon seal and stainless hat are still ok all you will need is the rubber accordion in your first picture.

The second picture with the aluminum carrier uses a straight rigid hose not the accordion one.
Click to expand...

How can I tell if the carbon seal and stainless hat are ok?
 
To change the drive shaft seal do I need to remove the Jet pump 4 bolts at the hull or the 4 bolts further back a few inches? There's 2 sets on the jet pump assembly and not sure if I remove the ones further back instead of at the hull if I can still pull the shaft out to install the new drive shaft seal.
 
1) Manual says remove steering cable from jet pump nozzle. Removed nut holding ball joint in nozzle (put back for pic) and no way to remove from nozzle. Cant turn long nut attached to ball joint and cable rod because its hooked to nozzle. How does this detach?
Sea Doo steering cable.jpg

2) Manual says detach air vent tube support from body opening. Other instructions i found said also remove jet pump water inlet and outlet hoses. Mentions black and 2 clear. I have green(2) and thicker black. Is it referring to these :
sea doo hoses at hull jet pump.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Regarding the water inlet hose spigot on the 587 Rotax, is there a diy write up anywhere on a hose hookup to run with water for these engines? Looks easy enough but what kind of quick connect is needed?
74.jpg
 
Seadoo Tuner said:
Regarding the water inlet hose spigot on the 587 Rotax, is there a diy write up anywhere on a hose hookup to run with water for these engines? Looks easy enough but what kind of quick connect is needed?
74.jpg
Click to expand...
Noticed the spigot is on the engine water OUTLET line going to a exit tube on right hull side by jet pump - shouldn't the water hose be hooked up to engine INLET line to run seadoo out of water?
 
That's correct, It's a reverse flush. You can find the adapter online or just make one yourself.
 
View attachment 41345

Trying to get these off - do the two smaller tubes pull off of the black plastic attachments which then pull thru the hull opening when you pull out the jet pump? The black plastic attachments appear to connect to the jet pump have a 6 sided nut shape on the end but when I turn them with a wrench they don't unscrew. Don't want to bust them off if they are supposed to screw off.
 
Seadoo Tuner said:
View attachment 41345

Trying to get these off - do the two smaller tubes pull off of the black plastic attachments which then pull thru the hull opening when you pull out the jet pump? The black plastic attachments appear to connect to the jet pump have a 6 sided nut shape on the end but when I turn them with a wrench they don't unscrew. Don't want to bust them off if they are supposed to screw off.
Click to expand...
Here's a closer pic :
95.jpg
 
Yes, they just pull off. You might need a screwdriver to help pop them free.
THe reason they are blue and not clear is because someone used the wrong injection oil in that ski and it was leaking into the hull.
 
mikidymac said:
Yes, they just pull off. You might need a screwdriver to help pop them free.
THe reason they are blue and not clear is because someone used the wrong injection oil in that ski and it was leaking into the hull.
Click to expand...
Ok. Previous owner used 2 stroke blue oil so that explains it then.Here's a pic of jet pump from rear with caulking at top of pump where it meets hull. Do I have to do this again when re installing or is it not needed.
113.jpg
 
Yes, you'll need to reseal that. But you can use a neoprene seal to seal the pump to the hull and then just some black RTV around the inlet line and siphon lines. Neoprene seal is seadoo part# 293200024
 
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