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Rusty75459

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OK, I've bought the 2 used skis, orderd & received 2 Poppy Covers (which are awesome!), picked up a double trailer last night & getting ready to assemble the package deal.

The scenario - 1 ski on small utility trailer; 1 ski on single trailer; empty double trailer. I've seen pwc lift straps through Gander Mtn for around $90 but you still have to have a hoist, come-a-long or forklift to pick them up. How do you guys get skis off trailers and on to the rolling carts you build? They weigh around 700#'s; correct?

The 1998 GTX I lake tested, it ran great but I may have already let the water in the cylinders freeze...

The 2000 GTI is going to need a little TLC before she is lake ready.

I have read the posts & the manuals about hooking a hose to them (turn water on after they've started). However, I don't have a cool quick connect adapter but I'm guessing I can buy that a home improvement store; correct?

Will a hose test on dry ground show me if the GTX has a cracked block? How long can they idle with water hooked to them?

On the GTI, the dealer got it to start using starting fluid (which I have). I'm assuming I need to clean the carb (which I've read about pulling). Are there any suggestions and/or advice anyone can give here?

Where do you buy the oils & filters for these skis? Use synthetic oil? The questions could go on and on...feel free to make some suggestions....
 
Rusty75459 said:
OK, I've bought the 2 used skis, orderd & received 2 Poppy Covers (which are awesome!), picked up a double trailer last night & getting ready to assemble the package deal.

The scenario - 1 ski on small utility trailer; 1 ski on single trailer; empty double trailer. I've seen pwc lift straps through Gander Mtn for around $90 but you still have to have a hoist, come-a-long or forklift to pick them up. How do you guys get skis off trailers and on to the rolling carts you build? They weigh around 700#'s; correct?

The 1998 GTX I lake tested, it ran great but I may have already let the water in the cylinders freeze...

The 2000 GTI is going to need a little TLC before she is lake ready.

I have read the posts & the manuals about hooking a hose to them (turn water on after they've started). However, I don't have a cool quick connect adapter but I'm guessing I can buy that a home improvement store; correct?

Will a hose test on dry ground show me if the GTX has a cracked block? How long can they idle with water hooked to them?

On the GTI, the dealer got it to start using starting fluid (which I have). I'm assuming I need to clean the carb (which I've read about pulling). Are there any suggestions and/or advice anyone can give here?

Where do you buy the oils & filters for these skis? Use synthetic oil? The questions could go on and on...feel free to make some suggestions....
Click to expand...


I take mine on and off my stand all the time. I spray sylicone on my runners, and then I wiggle the back of the ski back and forth, and pull. I can do it by myself no problem...then I just wench it back up with the trailer.

I went to home depot and got a quick connect kit for about 7.00..it was nice because it came with the valve shut off on the end of the hose..now I can connect my sprayer or my ski up with ease.

I believe the manual say no more then 3 min on the hose

I get my oil from Walmart. I use the quicksilver synthetic.
 
Thanks - I'll get some Quicksilver today.

Having never see the car on a ski...is it worth a shot to spray some carb cleaner first to see if it'll will work itself out?
 
Rusty75459 said:
Thanks - I'll get some Quicksilver today.

Having never see the car on a ski...is it worth a shot to spray some carb cleaner first to see if it'll will work itself out?
Click to expand...


make sure you get the quicksilver that says PWC on the front of it. Also I use the marine fuel stabil with every tank (its the blue/green color stuff). I am not a big fan other starting fluid or carb cleaner with 2 stroke motors. Also make sure that the ski's still do not have the grey tempo fuel lines. If they do get them changed out ASAP.
 
Those fat pigs arent fun to transfer to a stand, but it can be done. Lifting up and pulling back will make less drag.

If they are new to you and have no documentation, there are a few things that MUST be done unless you want to play Russian roulette with your motors.


Fuel lines...I reccommend Napa black over anything seethru. Made to handle e-10. Tygon is acceptable, but expensive. The GTI is 1/4" (i think?) and the GTXL is 5/16" and Napa sells it in 25' rolls. you will have a few feet left. I use high quality zip ties in place of hose clamps.

When doing fuel lines pull the fuel selector and fuel/water separator out and throughly clean it. I usually pull the lines and selector out as an assembly and assemble it with new lines before putting it all back in.

Fuel...I would siphon out as much as possible and refill with fresh gas and Sta-bil marine.

Oil...this one is kinda tough. I usually take a couple samples using a hose, blocking it with my thumb, and pull it out quick and put on a plate. You are looking for chunks or cloudyoil...evidence that someone mixed oils, or water got in. I almost burned up a motor b/c of bad/chunky oil. It isnt a perfect method, but most of the time the oil is fine. Change out oil filter, and its not a bad idea to replace the oil inj lines. I use tygon weedwhiper gas line. One of those old lines cracks...motor is toast.


Carbs...I am into doing things once. If you plan on keeping them a while I suggest getting OEM rebuild kits and OEM needles ad seats. Some people would just clean them...I like to fully rebuild them.

Rave valves (GTXL) need to be pulled out, cleaned, inspected for damage, and reinstalled.

Pump...pull the cone and check the oil for water contamination. If there is it maybe a good idea to have the bearings replaced. A lot of times though its from people reusing o-rings, or using non-oem o rings. Put new oring on cone, slather with arobic gasket maker (looks like red loctite) and reinstall. Its a good idea to pressure test the pump to make sure there are no bad seals. Refill with marine gear oil and put some pipe thread dope on the plug.

While you have the nozzles off check the prop and wear ring for wear and damage and repair as necessary.

Everything above I do to every machine I resell.
 
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Thank you, sir. That is the type of valuable information I was looking for. I knew I had come to the right place to get it.

Are there any specialty tools I will need to acquire?
 
Rusty75459 said:
Thank you, sir. That is the type of valuable information I was looking for. I knew I had come to the right place to get it.

Are there any specialty tools I will need to acquire?
Click to expand...

Pop off tester is really the only special tool needed. I would suggest anything but what mikuni sells these days. You can make one; youtube has videos on how to make one...or seadoosource.com has a pretty nice one.

Out side of that I would head to harbor freight and get both long and short, round tip and regular, metric allen socket sets. I cut a long one in half to get the carb bolts off the 951 motor.

The hose test should show a problem with freeze damage...the 951s have the best drainage. Its a long shot that it did damage, but simple winterization can leave no doubts.


I am assuming the GTX is a limited...it could be a 787 too. do you know which one you have?
 
Ok...yeah then Id put a very low percentage that you did any freeze damage.

Get your OEM manuals and get crackin!!

Oh...did you do compression tests on these machines?
 
Allow me to bring you up to speed on compression checks......

I have copied this from a different thread that goes back to late January... The back story is I bought the 2000 GTI during a time when I wasn't very focused. My Mom passed away on Monday the 17th and I bought it on the 22nd. I really needed to get out of the house and get my mind on something else. I responded to a Craigslist ad stating the ski had 135 lbs on each cylinder and I neglected to test it. A lake test was out of the question (per the dealer that sold it to me). I get to the shop at closing time & the shop foreman hits it with some starting fluid & I see it run for about a minute or so. We seal the deal and I head home. I get up Sunday morning and test the ski & get 75 lbs on my tester. The dealer & go round & round all week. They keep going back to "As Is", I keep going back to "135 lbs each cylinder"; there was almost a law suit...

True story: (1-29-11)

I drive to the dealership yesterday morning to have the compression checked. Shop foreman, salesman & myself are standing there in a very tense situation. Test with their tester & the foreman says "we did lie; it has 150 lbs" - I see it for myself....

We put my tester on - 75 lbs. I agree that the problem must be with my equipment. Still very tense but we call the deal good.

I hop in the truck, do a quick search for Autozone and there is one 4 blocks away. I drive there (busiest Autozone I've ever been in) and explain that my tester (bought 2 weeks earlier) is defective & get an exchange. I go to the parking lot, use the replacement tool and - 30 lbs.... Now I'm starting to get angry.

I throw the tool in my toolbox & start on my way to go look at Seadoo #2, the '98 GTX Limited. On the way I see an O'Reilly store so I pull in and rent a tool from them. This tester pulls 110 lbs. Better, but still not what I had just seen on the dealership's gear. I decide that these may not be quality tools although they sell them everyday for around $40. Continue to Seadoo #2.

I meet the seller's wife at a boat ramp, give the ski a visual inspection and decide to lake test it. I'm wading in 43 deg water an the machine starts easily. I let it warm up a bit before getting out of reach of the dock. All seems well. I head out on the lake and run for about 15 minutes; accelerate, decelerate, idle, manuever, check the reverse: all good. I had brought my GPS with me & had cleared the max speed. I never did go WOT for long due my lack of experience riding a ski. If I lost my glasses it would be bad.... My GPS recorded just over 50 mph. This seemed good enough for me. I negotiate the deal over the phone and purchase the ski for $1900.

I stopped at NAPA on the way home & bought another tester... The original ski tests 140 lbs, the GTX reads 135 lbs. I think it's going to be OK.

What a day.

This, Sir, is how my last month has gone...
 
Holy crap man...my buddy bought one of those cheap testers and the o-ring seal just suck on them.

I have old school cheap push in ones...and its suprisingly accurate. Within 5psi of my other buddies snap on.


You got a great deal on that GSXL man...although different places get different prices...easily a 2500-3g ski up in MN.

Hope things are going better in life. :cheers:
 
Thanks, man; it takes some getting used to.

I gave $1,000 for the GTI and I just bought a double trailer for $500 so the package thus far is at $3,400 with a nice single trailer to be sold later. Hopefully they last me for a while....
 
I stopped at NAPA on the way home & bought another tester... The original ski tests 140 lbs, the GTX reads 135 lbs. I think it's going to be OK.

135PSI at sea level is perfectly healthy for a 951 motor.

compression ratio 6.1:1
 
Rusty75459 said:
Thanks, man; it takes some getting used to.

I gave $1,000 for the GTI and I just bought a double trailer for $500 so the package thus far is at $3,400 with a nice single trailer to be sold later. Hopefully they last me for a while....
Click to expand...

yeah you got a steal!! :drool5:

jhjesse said:
I stopped at NAPA on the way home & bought another tester... The original ski tests 140 lbs, the GTX reads 135 lbs. I think it's going to be OK.

135PSI at sea level is perfectly healthy for a 951 motor.

compression ratio 6.1:1
Click to expand...

I mainly am looking for even compression on both cylinders...unless you have a calibrated gauge you typically don't have a spot on accurate gauge.
 
Minnetonka4me said:
yeah you got a steal!!
Click to expand...

I just hope I'm mechanically inclined enough for skis, cause I damn sure ain't rich....

You gave me great tips on what to do before launching them & I appreciate it very much. I'm going to do my best to become at least 1/8th as knowledgeable as most the guys on this thread.... There is a freakin' wealth of information right here; that's for sure.
 
Typically just taking things apart slowly and carefully and having the service manual can get you through most stuff. These 90's seadoos are pretty easy. Looks like the premium members get access to that stuff around here so I assume you have your manuals. :rolleyes:

I have to unfortunately deal with snowmobiles to pay the bills in the winter. By far a bigger pain in the asz. Jetskis you are dealing with tight spaces and doing things by feel instead of sight....thats the only thing harder.
 
on the hudson river between nyc and albany ny. i dont ride here but live here - i ride rarely but love watching my kids ride underage with licenses in upstate ny . rivers , lakes suck unless you get to the wind effected lakes
 
My wife's family is from upstate; spent my summer vacation driving to Central Square (outside Syracuse); caught a Chief's game & then hit Lexington/Concord, Boston, NYC, Philly, & DC then back to Texas.
 
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