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Islander

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$4k is a smoking good price !!! That boat cleaned up, and running is worth $12k.


Oh... and yes... That's like what I have. (2002)
 
What engine do these use?

Quick google search came up with Mercury 200, 220, and 240 as the options. Also without hardly even looking found tons of them with holes in the block due to back cranks. Ouch!

Those things look big as fook.
 
That's going to have the same 240 HP EFI merc engine I have.

I got mine as a project... and paid $5800 for it. The Islandia is a KICK @$$ boat to just go and hang out on. Plenty of power to tow people.. has a potty... has a sink/fresh water... has a shower... has a table... big swim platforms... ladders... kiddy pool, and a fountain.

PS: Kids are DUMB !!! Give them 3" of water in the foot well... and they will play with that over an ENTIRE LAKE!!! :confused:



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Quick google search came up with Mercury 200, 220, and 240 as the options. Also without hardly even looking found tons of them with holes in the block due to back cranks. Ouch!

Those things look big as fook.


It's just like any other boat or PWC. Engines fail eventually. The difference is... if you can't do your own work... it will cost you +$7k for a shop to install a new powerhead.

The "normal" mode of failure is just like with the smaller engines.... a melted piston. It's easy to hone, and replace one piston. (not a big deal)

The second way they fail is that the oil pump gear is made out of plastic... and if you overheat the engine... the pump shaft gets tight, and will strip the gear. Needless to say, if the pump stops, you don't have any oil. If you do a rebuild... just replace the gear. THe new style gear is MUCH stronger.

Then finally... yes... you can have a rod let go. It happens, but it's not common. With that said... my engine had a big hole, and it threw a rod. BUT... when I took it apart... the busted rod had a bolt missing. AND... I couldn't find it anywhere. (one was gone, and one was busted in half) So... what happened was... one bolt backed out, and without that support... the rod cap busted, and the crank pushed the rod out the side.


But... like anything... holes can be welded... and sleeves can be replaced.

FYI... I have about $1500 ~ $1600 into my rebuild.



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It's just like any other boat or PWC. Engines fail eventually. The difference is... if you can't do your own work... it will cost you +$7k for a shop to install a new powerhead.

The "normal" mode of failure is just like with the smaller engines.... a melted piston. It's easy to hone, and replace one piston. (not a big deal)

The second way they fail is that the oil pump gear is made out of plastic... and if you overheat the engine... the pump shaft gets tight, and will strip the gear. Needless to say, if the pump stops, you don't have any oil. If you do a rebuild... just replace the gear. THe new style gear is MUCH stronger.

Then finally... yes... you can have a rod let go. It happens, but it's not common. With that said... my engine had a big hole, and it threw a rod. BUT... when I took it apart... the busted rod had a bolt missing. AND... I couldn't find it anywhere. (one was gone, and one was busted in half) So... what happened was... one bolt backed out, and without that support... the rod cap busted, and the crank pushed the rod out the side.


But... like anything... holes can be welded... and sleeves can be replaced.

FYI... I have about $1500 ~ $1600 into my rebuild.



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That's insane! That's way beyond my skill level.......and tool level. lol


How much does a reman engine go for one of those things? Guessing 4 stroke?

LOL you powdercoat your motor in an oven?
 
The best price I found for a rebuild was about $3200 +core.

Nope... this isn't a 4-stroke. It's a BIG, 2.5L V6 2-stroke. (id love to put one in a car)
 
The best price I found for a rebuild was about $3200 +core.

Nope... this isn't a 4-stroke. It's a BIG, 2.5L V6 2-stroke. (id love to put one in a car)

If the plastic gear is such an issue.....why not premix?

Asking all these questions cause that thing looks awesome. :) If I could get one for 3k with a blown motor and get ahold of a reman for $3k I could flip it easily for a little money during peak season here. Especially living 2 miles from the closest boat ramp.
 
If the plastic gear is such an issue.....why not premix?

Asking all these questions cause that thing looks awesome. :) If I could get one for 3k with a blown motor and get ahold of a reman for $3k I could flip it easily for a little money during peak season here. Especially living 2 miles from the closest boat ramp.

Well... in the Merc section... that's a huge debate.

With the normal seadoo/rotax engines... I always tell people to keep the oil injection, because you waste less oil, and the engine will run better. BUT... the Rotax oil injection is SUPER reliable.

With the Merc engine... I still like the injection system... be their gear is a known issue. So... if you have a 10 year old merc engine, that is still running good... I would recommend removing the pump, and going pre-mix. (for safety) BUT... if you are doing a rebuild... then I recommend installing the new style gear, and keep the pump.

The old gear was a regular plastic, and wasn't anything special. The new gear is glass filled nylon. It's MUCH tougher than the old one. Also... I haven't heard of the new style gear failing on a rebuild.


OK... with that all said... if you can get a boat with a 2001-1/2 or newer engine... the 240 EFI engine changed. There were a lot of cool upgrades... but they got rid of the gear driven pump, and it got replaced with an electric pump.

My boat is a mid year 2002... and it still has a 2001 engine. So... realistically... you have to get a 2003 boat to get the newer "SmartCraft" engine.


As a final FYI... my boat was 10 years old when the engine gave out... and it was being used as a rental. (so lot's of abuse) AND... the oil gear in my engine was perfect. (I still installed a new gear during the rebuild)


Here's the old, and new.


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